fog light wiring

Hi folks, I'm about to install a set of OEM fog lights (45W each) in a 2004 ranger. the truck has the cutouts for the lamps but is missing the harness. So, before I start wiring, I'm wondering if some of you experts can tell me if the following is correct: - negative leads from lamps to chassis separately. - positive leads from lamps to a 30A relay pin 87 - relay's pin 30 to a +12V distribution block and fused with 10A ato at the block. - pin 85 tapped to constant (+) lead of a parking lamp and fused (5A) at the connection. - pin 86 through firewall to a spst toggle pin 1 - toggle's other pin to a good ground inside the cab. The distribution block is connected to the battery + via 1' 10ga wire. the wire powering the lamps to the relay and the battery is 14ga. The wire for the relay & switch is 16ga. Please chime in with any corrections and any explanations. Thanks for all your help.

Relay wiring is OK

kkid wrote: - negative leads from lamps to chassis separately.

Yes. . . But you will want to add in a star washer under each self tapping screw, this will promote current transfer and reduce the effects of rust and corrosion. As well, you will want to apply some dielectric grease compound to inhibit moisture to slow down the corrosion process. Lastly, you will want to keep both ground terminations as short as possible.

kkid wrote: - positive leads from lamps to a 30A relay pin 87

Yes . . .

kkid wrote: - relay's pin 30 to a +12V distribution block and fused with 10A ato at the block.

Yes . . .

kkid wrote: - pin 85 tapped to constant (+) lead of a parking lamp and fused (5A) at the connection.

Yes . . . Connecting either pin 85 or 86 could be used, so long as polarity is followed, which you have.

kkid wrote: - pin 86 through firewall to a spst toggle pin 1 - toggle's other pin to a good ground inside the cab.

Yes . . . You have elected to switch a ground, opposed to switching a power (+12 VDC) to initiate the turn on sequence. That is indeed the safest, and most common method in making / breaking a contact. No worries about shorts, or potential fire hazards in your set up !! Bravo . . . Some simple tips to remember, and safety: 1. Never turn on-off the lamps rapidly. Doing so will reduce the bulb life, and will cause a blow out in cold weather. 2. Never emmerse the lens with cold water during prolonged usuage. Doing so will crack the bulb. This will lead to structual failure of the glass lens, and upon small impact of rocks and debris, will result in obvious cracks from simple impacts. 3. If the unit has a vent tube to expell moisture. Insure that the unit is properly orientated down, and that the vent tube is kept clear at all times of any debris. 4. If you see moisture building up due to extreme temperatures. Remove the lens assembly, and remove any water deposits from the immediate area, as well as the lens. This will extend the bulb life and that of the reflectors surface material from becoming dull. 5. Use security screws to mount and affix the unit. If the unit has 3M high bond tape, ensure that you use it. This serves to bond the unit to the vehicle as well as insulate the unit from shock / vibration. 6. Aim the lights when you have a full tank of gas and you as a occupent on a level surface. This will allow you to see if the weight transfer has raised the beam pattern. If this has been observed, you will want to adjust the beam so as it does not blind oncoming drivers / motorists. Remember that the hue of yellow will penetrate fog and sleet far better than the hue of white. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

Teken, thanks for the detailed reply. I elected to switch the ground side specifically for safety reasons. Also, all my wiring will be routed in flex tubing along with existing wiring. I want to make it as neat and as stock-looking as possible. To keep the ground leads at the lamps short, I can connect them right to the frame - about 12" away. The distribution block a small 1in/4out gold plated unit with a plastic cover which basically just protects the setscrews, but the wire holes are exposed so the cables can be inserted. So, is it safe to use dielectric grease at the input & output connections to prevent any corrosion/moisture or is it a bad idea? Dielectric grease, is that a radio shack item? Also, thanks for the safety tips... These lights are OEM units, so they don't get mounted in a conventional way. I will have to stick to the OEM method, but in addition to the 3 bolts supplied, I will use some weatherproof silicone for a better bond to the back of the bumper valance. I have everything ready to go. Now, if the weather could warm up a bit here in NY, that would be nice....

LOL, as long as you dont live in Washinton Heights, your good to go !! Then again, if you're a Bronx Boy, no worries . . . Regards EVIL Teken . . .

kkid wrote: So, is it safe to use dielectric grease at the input & output connections to prevent any corrosion/moisture or is it a bad idea?

Yes it is safe, just remove any excess from the surrounding area.

kkid wrote: Dielectric grease, is that a radio shack item?

You can purchase that sort of material compound at any Lowes, Home Depot, Automotive parts store in your area. Dielectric grease technically is not a good conductor, or an insulator. If you do not have any stores near you, you may in a pinch use some Vaseline. The only down side to using it is that it does not have the same heat range as dielectric grease compound. Lastly, please don't confuse dielectric grease with conductive grease. One can insulate, and conduct some current. The other conducts at all times, no matter how small the trace amount is placed on the surface being applied. Arching / tracing is the primary reason you do not see many technicians using conductive grease in terminal force insertion plugs. (TFIP) Regards EVIL Teken . . .

That's great info, Teken. I'll trek over to Home Depot and pick up a tube of that stuff. Hey man, I was born in Europe, raised in Brooklyn and settled in Queens... the weather sucks all over NYC these days. I just can't wait for the spring to kick in... thanks again