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New Alt. Problems in Civic


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specialblendj 
Copper - Posts: 118
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2004 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged  

I just replaced my stock 75 amp alternator with a 135A alt. I bout off ebay.  The one I bought was from an online business which sells their alternators on ebay.  Anyways, my stock alternator was causing my headlight to dim sometimes, and things like that.  Now that I've got the new one in, I'm only getting 12.5 volts, and 12 with the AC on.  It looks like the alternator grounds through the engine, since theres only one cable going to it(B+), and the stock 4 pin harness.  I plan on upgrading the old corroded ground, later, but if that doesn't work, any other suggestions?  Its a 97 DX model. 

Also, I forgot to mention, before I replaced the alternator, my speedometer was going crazy, jumping up and down whenever I had a voltage drop and my headlights started dimming.  Now it doesnt work at all.  My Vehicle Speed Sensor is tied into the alternator harness isn't it?  After reconnecting my battery and installing the new alternator I did still have 1 harness unplugged in my engine compartement, could be the problem?

Thedfndent 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: April 06, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2004 at 2:08 PM / IP Logged  

     The one harness that's still unplugged could be your voltage regulator.  Your voltage regulator is piggybacked onto you alternator, it kinda looks like one piece.  Anyway that might cause you some problems.

    Also you GOTTA upgrade your ground wire man.  Kinda defeats the purpose of upgradin the alternator if you don't do the ground wire too.

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NINsane18 
Copper - Posts: 103
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2004 at 5:16 PM / IP Logged  
Right on Thedfndent, When I upgraded the alternator in my Grand Cherokee, I ran 4 gauge from the alternator to the battery post, and 4 gauge for the ground battery cable. Corroded does not sound good man, upgrading the wire to larger and cleaning up the connection will make all the difference in the world.    
Tim-May!
specialblendj 
Copper - Posts: 118
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: April 24, 2004 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  
I completely agree w/ the ground suggestions.  I planned on doing that, I just hadn't yet.  Anyways, I upgraded my alt.  and battery ground last night.  I'm beginning to think that my problem is the result of a loose belt.  The alternator belt is not very loose feeling, but not quite as tight as other belts, (power steering, etc.)  When I start my car now, I here a quick high pitched squeek, which I'm pretty sure is the belt slipping when it first starts spinning.  So I'll tighten my belt and hopefully that will solve my voltage problem.  I still don't know why my VSS isn't working though.  Maybe I was unclear before, but I don't have any harnesses unplugged.  I unplugged a couple, but they are all plugged in now, and I've disconnected my negative battery cable ( when I replaced the ground cables) since plugging them back in.  Also, my check engine light is still on, probably due to the problem with my VSS.  I friend tested the engine computer before I replaced my alternator, said it was reading a voltage spike and an open loop.  He's an experienced mechanic and he also tested my alternator and said it was bad.  Another friend of mine( an amateur mechanic) said that it could be my voltage regulator.  I know absolutely nothing about voltage regulators.  I can infer what it does from the name, but I don't even know where it is or what it looks like.  Any more advice would be appreciated. 
mobiletoys2002 
Gold - Posts: 1,050
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Joined: April 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 24, 2004 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  
the stock alternator u took out most likely had a voltage regualtor built in to it..The aftermarket is most likely the same way the regualtor is almost always built in now and days.

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