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several compustar problems


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dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2005 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged  
The truck: 2004 Ford F-250 Diesel Crew Cab King Ranch
The alarm: compustar 2wssr
The truck does have factory keyless entry
Problems:
1. Remote start engages fine with 528t, but after about 5-10 seconds it shuts down. I do not have a bypass module because the ford dealer told me that the diesels do not have a chip in the key yet, thus making the bypass unnecesary. I have it set on alternator sensing because i gave up on the trying to find the tach. The wire i use for the alternator sense reads nothing when off, 1.87 when ignition is on, and 12 when running.
2. Domelight does not come on. I have the violet wire from connector 5 hooked up with the red wire from connector 3 running to the BLACK/ blue wire on the truck.
3. Doorlocks do not work. Since I have keyless I hooked the blue wire from connector 4 to the BLACK/ white and the blue/blk wire from connector 4 to the WHITE/ red on the truck. I tested the wires at the switch to trouble shoot and got the following results: There are 5 wires - 2 blk, pink, WHITE/ red, BLACK/ white. when I lock the doors both the WHITE/ red and the blk/white go hot and stay hot for about 6 seconds, the 2 blks stay grounded, the pink doesn't seem to change much. Reverse polarity?
4. Window automation: (530T) Everything works perfect from the switches. But it won't auto rollup upon arming or work remotely off of aux 1. I have the RED / white wired to the yellow of connector 5. And I have the orange wire wired to the violet wire of the prewired relay on the compustar (connector 1).
5. how can i make it learn the 1-way remote?
6. How can i disengage passive arming?
I know its a lot and I don't expect anyone to be able to or take the time to answer them all, but if ya'll could take a stab at the ones you can help with it would be much appreciated!
Dyer
auex 
Platinum - Posts: 5,041
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Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: January 10, 2005 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  
1. Try remote starting it with the key in the cylinder and see what happens.
2. Don't know compustar but the wire you need to use is the domelight supervision wire, usualy - output. The car's wire is positive so you will need a relay.
3. don't know but list wire colors and functions.
4. Wire the orange window up to the ground when armed wire coming off of the alarm. If the same wire is being used to activate starter kill/antigrind then you will need to wire a diode inline. Band toward the alarm and tag the 530 between the alarm and diode. As for the windows down, check to see what type of output you have tied into: latched, timed, validity, trunk pop.
5. Don't know
6. Don't know
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thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: January 11, 2005 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged  
Wire Diagram
FORD, F SERIES SUPER DUTY, 2004, Power Lock
Without keyless entry use pink / YELLOW for lock and pink/lt. green for unlock. They are 5 wire reverse polarity mastered from the driver switch and found in either kick panel. With keyless entry use WHITE/ red for lock and BLACK/ white for unlock. They are negative trigger and found at the VSM.
On the vehicles with keyless entry the GEM shuts down after the doors have been locked for a certain time period, to wake up the system refer to DirectFax document 1094.
1. Use tach this time. 100% of the time it works way better than alternator sensing.   
FORD, F SERIES SUPER DUTY, 2004, Tachometer
On diesel vehicles the tach wire is GREEN / WHITE in a 5 wire harness held up with white tape behind the parking brake release.
2. Like auex said, run a relay it's positive.
Door Trigger BLACK/ lt. blue   +   passenger kick panel
3. Keyless use these wire.
With keyless entry use WHITE/ red for lock and BLACK/ white for unlock. They are negative trigger and found at the VSM.
On the Compustar, push hoodpin down so it is not grounded then you can test the Keyless function and see if it will work.
4. auex answer that.
5. Turn on to ignition( car not running) and back to off, five times and press lock. One flash to learn, and two flash to confirm that programing session has ended.       
6. Don't know either. Consult with your installation manual, not that hard to program.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.several compustar problems - Last Post -- posted image.
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2005 at 1:41 PM / IP Logged  
update:
1. fixed!
2. Not fixed. I tested the violet wire from connector 5 and its not supplying a (-) output when disarmed...why would this be.
3. fixed! wired with directfax 1094-shouldn't that trigger the domelight as well?
4. fixed!
5. fixed!
6. fixed!
Dyer
thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: January 11, 2005 at 2:19 PM / IP Logged  
Domelight output from Compustar unit is negative, so you have to run a relay and diode to the domelight door trigger of the truck.
If you connected to the positive side. You might have damage the unit.    
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.several compustar problems - Last Post -- posted image.
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2005 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  
i used a relay
30: (+)12v
86: (-) from alarm
85: (+)12v
87a: (output to door trigger)
Dyer

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