JL 12w3v2-D4 which amp?

Foolish: the guy i bought my sub from my JL 12W3v2 D2 was using a god damn jl 500/1 on the sub and guess what ti works just fine now its not blown he didnt go crazy on bass boost or anythign tand the sensitivty wasnt turned all the way up he told me that jl said the settings to sub that he was putting abour 400-450WRMS to the sub . and SUBS can take MORE POWER in a sealed enclosure than a PORTED one so dont worry just give ur jl 350 -450WRMS ulll be fine man

Well, mabey i was unlucky. I was also comparing my exp.with a 10in..installed and ajusted by a sound shop (earmark). It didn't bottom out or have alot of distortion all the sudden i heard it start rubbing and knew what it was. went back and they confirmed melted coils..These other guy's seem to be hitting that 12in sub with alot of power so i would take my advice with a grain of salt.

thad

Given that the amp is providing clean, unclipped signal to the sub, it doesn't matter what the impedance load on the amp is.  It's the wattage to the woofer that is important.  There are a lot of people who successfully power subs with amps that are capable of more power than the sub is.  It's all in how carefully you set it up.  Measure the output and don't exceed the RMS of the sub.

Any and all...get the m301 put the audiocontrol epicenter between your source and amp.(SHUT YOUR AMP CROSSOVER FLAT FOR SUB) PRECISLY TUNED THAT COULD SOUND LIKE TWO 12'S(to some) porly tuned that will melt your coil's or blow your surround. ROOT MEAN SQURE THERMAL RATING'S...SPEND THAT EXTRA BUCK ON PROCESING THE SIGNAL. You will find it's attributes in procesing with adaqute power is much more enhanced by control from user. there are proccesor's being made as we speak. (mabey look around) there kinda inexpensive too.(considering)