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rear door speakers louder than front?


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CCordray 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2005
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged  

I'm inexperienced and I want to learn:

In my 2003 Tahoe (non-Bose) I currently have: Pioneer 50w x 4 h/u, Punch 50w rms coaxial 6 1/2 's in the front doors, factory speakers in the back doors, and 2 12" punch subs behind the back seat. The front door speakers are run from the h/u front rca output to a Punch 4020 amp. The factory tweeters in the front doors are still connected and playing, as well. The back door (factory) speakers are run from the h/u rear speaker leads with an rca adapter to the Punch 4020. The Punch 4020 is bridged to 2 channels: one for left and right front door speakers, the other for left and right rear door speakers. (This was not my configuration of choice, but a way to make the speakers play with the limited amount of speaker wire I had at that time. I am aware that this does not produce the proper Ohm load for the Punch 4020, and I intend to correct this.) The 2 subs are run from the h/u sub rca output to a crossover and a Phoenix Gold 200zx.

So, why are the rear door speakers much louder than the front door speakers? I have examined and adjusted the amplifier gains to improve balance, but am not yet satisfied. Also, I have heard that the front door factory speaker components my have factory crossovers, and that I should not use these factory crossovers with my Punch 6 1/2 coaxials. Additionally, should I not use the factory tweeters with the Punch coaxials? One more thing I've heard: the rear door speakers may have a factory installed external amp somewhere, (maybe under the driver's seat?). Any truth to this?

I want to improve the sound (in quality and volume) of my front door speakers. I am considering an upgrade to component sets, but first I would like to be sure that I'm correctly using (or not using) the equipment that I already have. These particular Punch 6 1/2 coaxials have sounded much better in previous vehicles. And I'd like to have a plan of action before I remove the door panels again.

As a housewife and mother of two infants, my budget is limited --I'm paid only in diapers and kisses. I relish each moment that I can steal away after bedtime and become engulfed in my favorite music. Music is a part of me; I want the music to surround me, so that I am a part of it.

Please give advice or suggestions...

russ lund 
Copper - Posts: 188
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 12:33 PM / IP Logged  
Do you have the amp bridged properly?Are the speakers in phase?(+ to + ,- to - etc.).The crossover on the tweeter(front) won't matter.I have installed in the same vehicle as yours with good results.Recheck you amp/spkr hook up's.
BigDog
Lthlquicksilver 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  
Also, u may want to check ohm load of those fact speakers, ive seen fact speakers ar 2 or 3 ohm, where ur punches sit at 4, this would explain the higher power.  Also, those fact speakers are probably much less power hungry and much more efficient than your aftermarkets (it doesn't take much to drive them), this could also explain the volume difference.
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CCordray 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2005
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 1:20 PM / IP Logged  

I believe that the speakers are in phase. The speaker wire (for the front door speakers) is run from the 4020 amp's two front channels to the head unit and tied to the OEM front speaker output leads behind the head unit, (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). The signal then travels through the OEM speaker wires to the 6 1/2 coaxials, which are connected with wire connectors, not the OEM speaker connectors. The (+) terminal of each speaker is connected to the OEM wire that was labeled "B" on the OEM speaker connectors, because such was the polarity of the OEM speakers when I tested them with a battery.

Of course, I may have incorrectly labeled a wire during installation...   What other problems should I look for when I tear into this project again?

CCordray 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2005
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  
The OEM front door speakers I removed are marked 4 Ohm, so I will guess that the rear door speakers are 4 Ohm as well (I'm not going to take them out to see). When you say "less power hungry and more efficient", are you refering to sensitivity, i.e. 86bD vs. 92dB? I don't know much about this speaker feature. Should I make some changes in my set-up, or just try to tune the speakers to my listening preferences?
vinspo 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged  

This is probably your best option to get the sound and balance you desire. Use the punch amp only for the coaxial speakers in the front doors. Use the deck power for the rear speakers and this should give you better control and balance.

Poormanq45 
Silver - Posts: 597
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 13, 2005 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged  
HAha, componenet speakers are extremely inefficient compared to coaxials/triaxials. I'm talking on the order of an average of a 6dB difference. That's two doublings of power.
It is nice to have seperates(componenets), but if you want high SPL go with coaxials that can handle a decent amount of power. If you want SP go with components.

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