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Good speakers for Ford F-150?


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flynntech 
Copper - Posts: 275
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged  
So far I have this:
Polk audio Db, 5.25" coaxials, cones blown away from the basket, readhered with HI-temp RTV....hey it works! (I got these for free, the original glue probably separated from the heat) These are in the doors.
Rear, stock Ford. I can fart better sounds than those can ever produce....FADE....>front!
Clarion HU, free with truck, won't play burned CDs and hardly gets reception...junk since most of my originals were stolen and all I have is CDRs and MP3s. It is ok for talk radio though.
Sub:
JL Audio 'power wedge' for trucks, 10" sealed box. For an amp I have the Rockford Fosgate 300S bridged. I think this is a 75x2 watt amp, but I'm not sure. I mounted the bass knob to the inside of the glove box. I don't like this amp much anyways, I think it falls short of the JL's power requirments. It does free some rust from underneath the truck though.
Since I never seem to have any money to waste on audio gear like I did when I was 18... I'm looking for the bang for the buck approach.
First order of business is the speakers. I only need fronts, preferably components. Whatever is biggest size I can fit 5.25"? For now, I can put them in the doors. I've discovered the doors actually aren't that bad although the grill doesn't do the drivers any justice. Once I get those in there, I can power them with the Rockford amp. I can go w/o the sub for awhile.
I'm getting tired of 'Error 6' everytime I throw in one of my burned specials. I can't seem to get anything besides talk radio and the lamest stations on FM, so I'll splurge and get a decent HU for MP3s, XM ready and all that stuff.
When I can allocate the funds to power the sub, I'd like a nice clean class D, 300.1 JL or similar amp. That is sure to do the trick. It has been advised and I have always beleived two of those 'wedges' would be much better than one. My question is: how can I best identify this sub/box combo and would it still be available after 4 years?
So, a new HU
decent speakers for the doors (later to be used in kickpanels if I ever get around to it)
and a stronger amp for the sub, then it should be sounding better.
This is what I have in mind:
$150 for the HU, Pioneer 3400D or whatever it was. I almost bought it, but I needed that whole $150 for gas...bummer. Anything comparable would be cool too, but Pioneer always seems to do bang for the buck even if they aren't extreemly high end. I've been very pleased with every one I've installed.
decent brand speakers like JL, JBL, whatever...something that can take a few watts and not sound like complete garbage. Good bass response with HP set properly. I will spend up to $200, maybe $250 (leaving out rears to buy nicer fronts)
I know I can trust a JL 300.1, maybe a 500.1 just to have the gain set to 1/5! I like class D amps and my alternator probably does too.
What a ridiculous post...well, any suggestions welcome!
(once I get my second CAR, the gas savings alone will afford me a nice system for the truck and the car!)
chrisAWD 
Copper - Posts: 61
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 8:48 PM / IP Logged  
wow, that was painfully long....lol...but i got throught it.
to answer SOME of your questions. pioneer is good bang for the buck decks. i'm not familiar with the 3400d, but the 3700 or 4700 is in your price range and gives you some good options.
speaker wise, offhand i believe 5x7 is standard there. if you go with kicker kx 5.25 components they will come with a 5x7 adapter. definately go components up front.
car 1 = alpine 9807, mtx 404+mtx 311d, polk speakers, kappa 10"
car 2 = pioneer 7700, kicker 400x1, kicker 60x4, 10"compvr x2, kappa speakers

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