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Ideal Crossover Points


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Cali_pilot 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2005
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 22, 2005 at 6:56 AM / IP Logged  
I was just wondering what are the ideal crossover points on the amps for a sound system.  I've got an N2 but do not use the supplied amplifier.  I've got a Profile AP1040 80Wx4RMS amp to power a set up Infinity Reference components up front and Infinity Reference 6012i coaxials in the back.  I also have a Jensen 200W RMS amp to power a PowerBass Xtreme 10" sub.  I currently have the crossovers set to HP 125 on the Profile amp and LP 125 on the Jensen and everything sounds fine but I'm sure it can sound better, I just don't know what else to do to it.  On the N2 I have the Bass set to 40 the Mid set to 500 and the Treble to 4.  Bass is +6, Mid is +5, Treble is +6.  I think those are the Q settings.  The other Bass setting is set to 160 at +6 and the Treble set to 4 at +5.  The "sub" option is set at 125 and +6.  The "HPF" setting is at 125.  This may not be as confusing for you as it is for me so maybe you can make something of it. 
2011 Ford F-150 Super-Crew FX4
HU: Pioneer AVIC-Z1
Fronts: Infinity Kappa 682.9cf
Rears: Infinity Kappa 682.9cf
Amp: Profile AP1040
Sub: Pioneer TS-SWX251
sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: November 22, 2005 at 9:51 AM / IP Logged  
Hmm. Good question.
Not really shure about the HU tuning although I'm not convinced having the treble, mids, and bass all turned up like that is really a very good idea... I bet a more mellow approach would produce greater fidelity. Before you start *any* of the steps outlined below, reset ALL of these to a flat-level okay? Very important for competent tuning! A 'Q' setting refers to the overall response curve... so you are correct in this interpretation... Here is what those settings mean:
1)Bass=40
Center frequency of your bass-boost will be 40hz.
2)Bass=+6
Arbitrary setting indicating your bass-boost is really high.
3)Mid=500
Same thing, center frequency of the mid-boost is 500hz
4)Mid=+5
Same thing, arbitrary setting indicating your mid-boost is really high.
5)Treble=4
Same thing, center frequency of the treble-boost is 4000hz, or 4khz.
6)You get the idea.
Here is what I would do if I were you:
1) Remove all xover points from the 1st 2 sets of pre-amps (your front and rear cabin speaker outputs) on your deck. Set your sub-out xover point too... I dunno, a 160LP sounds good... Not sure how the deck does a sub-out on the back RCA set but you need to make sure you are running a signal that includes at least 20-120hz.. so in this case I'd prolly cascade my xovers on the back set..
2) Lower/raise your xover point on the amps... I would start your cabin speakers a hair lower and your sub a hair lower.. sayy.. use a high pass filter (or HPF)on your cabin stuff at 100hz and a LP filter on the Jensen amp at 100hz as well for the sub. 125hz just sounds a bit high to me... I'm thinking displaced woofer and all..
3) Reset your gains. I'd start your gains all the way back to the beginning at reset them all, starting with the sub, as I imagine that's what would distort first looking at your equipment list.
4) NOW set your HU level adjustments like treble, midboost, and bassboost.
5) Maybe your car sounds just the same, maybe much much better eh? Post back and let us know how ya did eh?
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
technotom 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 23, 2005 at 3:10 AM / IP Logged  
Sedate is right on with that advice. Ditch all the xover points and set all of the levels to 0! (side note, the first equalizers were made by Altec Lansing way back when - The "Acousti-voice" and were "cut only" devices!)
As to the xover point for the sub (LPF), check the mfg. specs (they usually recommend one). If you change the LPF, change the HPF to match otherwise you may create a "notch" or overlap in your system response. When both are set the same, each driver is outputting at -3db at xover, yielding a (thoretical) "flat" response.
As imaging goes, the lower you leave the xover pont on the sub, the better. As frequency increases, speaker response "beams" in a straight line (ever wonder why a tweeter is hemispherical in shape?) and you will "hear" where the sub is rather than just feel it! And, yes, this will make a difference in what you actually hear in your car if done properly.
Hope this helps
Tom

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