what battery to choose

Everyone hold up. An Optima wont fit under your washer bottle. You have to put it in the trunk.

Forgive me heamph, I'm *certain* you can appreciate my bellicosity... Again, referred to heamph's original post...

haemphyst wrote: You do not need yellow top battery, (personal feelings speaking, the red-tops are better spec-wise for car stereo anyway...)

Yea. Huh. I actually recall reading this post a few weeks back and being somewhat suprised at this statement. I mean, I killed a Red Top in a weekend with a kw of JL amps and a 90amp alt. The same amps and the same 90amp alt that, attached to a Yellow Top, produce zero-light dimmage and have my voltmeter pegged to 12.0 - 13v under full tilt-pull from the 1800d (tho to be fair, that is @ 4-ohms, but add the e6450, the USX2050, & the EQX.. a round kw I think..) a solid year later. The Yellow has proved absolutely bottomless. Of course, that's all *subjective* .... on to 'theory' ....

haemphyst wrote: On to the differences between standard (red-top) and deep cycle (yellow-top) batteries. NOTHING. They are the same, save the THICKNESS of the plates they are built with - deep cycle being up to 25 percent thicker. Because the current a battery can produce comes from a chemical reaction, the number of plates (or total surface area of the plates - 25% thicker means 25% fewer plates, means 25% less peak current...)

Sure. You're saying that by virtue of its sturdier construction, peak current production is sacrificed.

haemphyst wrote: Which one is better for CURRENT? The red top, right? What does a car amp need to produce power? Current, that's right. Now which one will you choose?

Wow. heamph, I .. uhh .. just don't follow this conclusion AT ALL. As I understand this, it is like comparing the 800 CCA's to the 750CCA's ... yea I mean I already conceded the Red *will* produce more current in a pinch ... but it is just that ... in a pinch. Under a LOAD, which is what .. i mean.. you know.. an operating amplifier only needs so much, but it does need it all the time.. and when you start getting into larger monoblocks you start getting 50 - 60 amp pulls at a time... But again, even then, the MAXIMUM amount of current we're talking about here is not going to sweat *either* battery...    So if one battery is sturdier, and discharge and recharge with more reliablilty, why wouldn't it be the superior choice for an application that would place the battery under significant strain for a large portion of it's operating life? Particularly an application that would test the limits of its storage capacity? I mean.. I would rather keep the tank for future use than break it and empty it all at once..

haemphyst wrote: No, I am NOT a salesman for Optima

Obviously! You'd be pushing the Yellow's! "I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

just get the Duralast save some money.Big Dave