1 ohm amplifier

I am thinking of opgrading the bass section of my sound system. I love low frequency bass in fact right now i'm running at 30-35 hz but i realised that i need more power to produce loud bass at this frequency. The best way to maximize power output of an amplifier is to decrease the frequency. My plan is to wire 2 dual coil subs at 4 ohms per coil in parallel. However with 1 ohm the current draw from the vehicle will be tremendous. How can i minimize dramatic current draw effects from such a system and how i can supply such an amp with enough power to work at it's max or close to it.Prodigal Son

nouseforaname wrote: if you run a 1 ohm stable amp, you shouldn't have any problems with current draw. as long as your amp is rated at the ohm load you want to acheve, then it shouldn't dram any more amps than a 4 ohm amp.

Thats not quite right. A one ohm stable amp is quite often high current and draws more amperage than a standard 4 ohm stable amp. List more info such as vehicle subs current amps deck current box and we can help out more from there

double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

ok i currently have a boss bv6500 dvd player, soundstream bx-10 digtal bass reconstruction processor, profile pm50 4 band parametric equalizer (with 30 Hz low pass filter), Power Acoustik PCNC-2.0F 3.0 Farad Digital Capacitor. Currently i'm running 2 Rockford Fosgate P210S4 10" Punch Stage 2     Rockford Fosgate P210S4 10" Punch Stage 2 wired in parallel (2 ohms) to a Power Acoustik LT980/2 -- 2-Channel Amplifier and already the current draw is dimming everything in my car very badly when i turn up the volume in my 1991 mitsubishi galant. I am looking to upgrade my bass to 2 Kicker 05S12L54     Kicker 05S12L54 -- Dual 4 Ohms 12" L5 Solo-Baric S12L5 Kicker S12L54 and a Hifonics BXi 2006D     Hifonics BXi 2006D -- Brutus Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier (2000 watts RMS @ 1 ohm • 1500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms • 650 watts RMS @ 4 ohms). I was told that for 1 ohm apllication the ground wiring must be perfect with 0 guage wire. I also noticed that most 1 ohm stable amps don't have any fuses so i'm assuming this may make them easier to fry. Hope this information is enough. ThanksProdigal Son

They have fuses, they may be inside the amp. Before you do anything to "upgrade your bass" you have to upgrade your charging system. You can install anything you want but without the juice its useless and won't perform to whats its rated or even close. Read the above sticky on upgrading the big 3 before you spend any money on higher power equipment. FYI the capacitor can aid in headlights dimming they add more of a draw on your already starving charging system....

nouseforaname wrote: ok, the last 1 ohm stable amp i had ran LESS amps than the 4 ohm amp i ran. i know that may be a little hard to understand for some people, but it can happen. i'm a 12 year install veteran so yes i know how to check for things like that and it can be done.

ABSOLUTELY wrong. If you are seeing a class A/B amp with an equivalent output rating as a Class D amp, and the Class A/B has fuses that are the same size or smaller than the Class D amplifier, one of two things ABSOLUTELY MUST be happening: 1: The Class A/B is OVERRATED, or 2: The Class D is UNDERRATED. There is NO WAY any class A/B amp can be more efficient than ANY Class D amplifier. Class A/B has a theoretical MAXIMUM efficiency of 66%, and that's THEORETICAL. Usually 50% is more the norm. A Class D amplifier has a theoretical maximim efficiency of 92%. Again theoretical, typically 85 or so percent efficient. You do the math. A 1000 watt amplifier is NOT a 1000 watt amplifier. You may be a 12 year veteran installing electronics, but I am a 21 year veteran in electrical and electronics theory from a military background. No, it can't be done. You CANNOT overcome Ohm's Law. In fact, you can't even BEND Ohms Law...

bazzgazm wrote: one thing you'll see is class a-b amps have better efficiency than they used to. so getting a 4 ohm stable 2 channel amp that can create 1000 watts @ 4ohm mono will often consume less current than a class d monoblock @ 1ohm 1000w. so if you series/parallel 4 voice coils @ 4ohms each you will do what you need to max out a good 2 channel 4ohm mono stable bridgeable amp.

If the output is 1000 watts, it does not matter WHAT the load is to acheive that output power. The input/output ratio will actually become worse as you load the amplifier down. This happens with Class A/B and Class D amplifiers. Their efficiency gets worse the more you load them, meaning that you will have more heat wasted per output watt provided.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

So what exactly are class A/B and class D amplifiers and now i've noticed digital amplifiers- What exactly are they and what are their ups and downs? Thanls for the posts really learning alot here.Prodigal Son

nouseforaname wrote: whatever. guess my THEORY is bad.

Yes, your theory is bad. ~wirewise~

It was the "whatever" comment that encouraged me :) The thing to remember in this forum is that there is a lot to learn from a lot of members here no matter how long you've been installing mobile electronics. ~wirewise~

Im gonna speak in generalizations here so remember this isnt written in stone. A A/B amp is often used to run full range speakers and/or speaker sets. The amps are not as high effeciency as a class D amp but have a lower distortion rating. They are also generally availible in 2 and 4 channel configurations although there have been single channel as well as 5,6,7,8,9 channel versions. A Class D amp is generally used to run subwoofers. They are more efficent than your standard A/B amps but have a higher distortion rating. This is generally not audible in a subwoofer so it doesnt matter. Generally a class D amp is a single channel or "mono Block" amp.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer