the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Highpass filter


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
MX6boii 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 12, 2006 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
Hey everyone, I have 4" MBQuart Discus speakers in the rear of my '00 Odyssey. I notice that when I turn them up they start distorting, really bad... The cone is rattiling from over excursion.
So I was thinking about adding a highpass filter to it, from 180Hz. By using the calculator, provided by this site, the cap needs to be 221 microfarads. Caps at Partsexpress.com for this value costs $50+. 200Hz is still too pricey too. Just seeing the price put all my hopes down.
Another thing is if I should be using a 1st or 2nd order filter? I remember seeing most amp crossovers rated at the 12db cutoff. Even if I do go with a 2nd order filter the cap value is still high and costs will still be up.
Is there another place where I can buy caps/coils at a lower price? Or am I going at this the wrong way.
By the way, the rest of the system consists of front components pieced together and a Boston sub. Both are connected to a Kenwood amp. The MBQuart's are powered from the factory radio.
Thanks for your input.
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: July 12, 2006 at 10:02 PM / IP Logged  
You can use two polarized caps of 450µF caps wired in series, + to +. This will give you 225µF, non-polarized. Radio Shack, catalog number 272-1018 will be 235µF, at 70 volts.
While I am not a fan of electrolytic caps, this will function perfectly well for the mean-time, at least until you can afford the good caps referred to above, and only a $10.00 fix.
It all reminds me of something that Moličre once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 12, 2006 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  
I would, quite honestly, disconnect those rear 4" speakers altogether.  Then try to tailor the front soundstage for the complete sound you want to hear.  If the fronts alone won't do the trick, replace the 4's with coaxials of a larger size, then fade them down (using the deck fader) until they provide just the right amount of ambiance you need.  You'll still have the Quarts for another project down the road, and you'll save yourself unneccessary expense in trying to make them perform properly in the rear location.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
MX6boii 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 12, 2006 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the quick reply guys.
haemphys: I'll give your idea a try. Buying things like caps/coils/resistors from Radioshack now is hard. Only certain stores will carry those parts. I did find one brand of affordable caps at the Partsexpress but they are nonpolarized. Know any other online electronic sites?
stevdart: The only reason why I don't disconnect them is because when I have passengers in the back there needs to be highs to go along with all the bass from the sub. I would like to put bigger size speakers in that opening but the max is 5" (for that model year)which Polk had out a while ago but the mounting depth was a problem. The reason I don't fade them down is because the sub is controlled also with the rear speakers. Meaning the amp is wired up through speaker level inputs.
Once again, thanks for all your ideas.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, March 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer