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2007 Chevy Suburban

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Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  

Has Any one worked on a 2007 Chevy Suburban I installed a 15" monitor and tied the constant and the accessory wire in the igninition harness but the monitor turned on for 5 seconds and then shut off and now there is no power to the monitor and the truck does not start checked all fuses and they are okay but truck still doesnt start wire i grabed for acc is brown like primary wire and RED / white for constant also the same gauge like primary wire.

if anyone call help please email me


Silver - Posts: 637
Silver spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not sure, but maybe its to do with the anti theft system. Newer cars you cant tap into wiring at the ign switch, because it will think its being hotwired. Maybe thats how the 07 suburban is.
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 5:10 PM / IP Logged  
did you verify that you still have power on these wires?  you may have a shorted wire which took out a main fuse.....
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Silver - Posts: 585
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  

That RED / white wire you tapped into is only 2 AMPS.  There are 2 thick RED / black wires at the fuse box you could use for constant instead.  make sure you fuse it. 

The car isn't starting because you blew overloaded the RED / white at the ignition cylinder.  You definitly blew a fuse, you just haven't found it yet. Make sure you check under the hood as well as inside the car.  Keep looking and good luck.


Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged  
The fuse is in the underhood fuse box. It is number 34 and is a two amp fuse. As mentioned, you can't use the ignition harness wiring on most newer GM's. They aren't designed to handle any load and are only reference voltages for the BCM. Most circuits can't even handle the load of a relay on them. You need to find other sources of power.
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 15, 2006 at 6:51 PM / IP Logged  

 THank You for everyones advise but i definetly blew something because car still don't start and according to dealership they say it was the computer brain if anyone has an idea what fuse it was or is please help because dealership wants $10500 for a new computer cause they said the brown wire i taped into was the part of the throttle and starter wire please help a lot of money out of my pocket.

thank you


Copper - Posts: 225
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 16, 2006 at 12:54 PM / IP Logged  
if they honestly swap it, tell them that you want all the parts replaced...
Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10
Silver - Posts: 1,070
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: August 17, 2006 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  
I had a simaler problem on a 2006 uplander, if the brown acc wire does not lose 12V when you try to start it, it will not crank, do not use that wire for any acc taps.
remove all your wiring and try again.
Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta
Gold - Posts: 1,217
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: August 18, 2006 at 6:03 AM / IP Logged  
Yes the 07 Suburban, Escalade, Tahe, Yukon, DTS, Impala, Lucerne, pretty much any of the newer style GM's, DO NOT tap the ignition wires to power anything! You can output to the wires AYOR if your doing a remote start or something, just don't use them for getting power. There is a GM document out on this as well I will post it if I get a chance.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: August 18, 2006 at 6:59 AM / IP Logged  
If all you did was what you've said, there's no reason for you to fry any computer. You simply overloaded a circuit. It happens sometimes. Dealerships frequently misdiagnose electrical problems.
No matter what kind of car, or what the particular circuit is, the circuits are fused for pretty much one reason------so that if the device suddenly draws too much current, OR the wiring chafes through and shorts to ground, the FUSE blows, to protect both the car's wiring, AND other expensive electronic devices.
So, if it really were true that a circuit overload destroyed a car's computer, that would be a pretty badly designed car!
Furthermore, new cars don't just have "the computer" anymore like they used to........there are separate modules that control the body, the powertrain.....I believe that Suburban even has computer modules in the doors! So, if someone is just telling you it's "the computer" that needs to be replaced, watch out.
There are quite a few 2-amp fuses on newer GM cars, and the one that feeds the ignition switch isn't clearly labeled. Grab your meter or test light, and re-test EVERY fuse in that car, both inside and underhood. You'll find it.
I recently had to go and repair pretty much the EXACT same problem you're talking about.
In my case, it was an installer who connected a car alarm to the constant and switched wires at the keyswitch on a Chevy Malibu. The parking-light flash from the alarm drew more than 2 amps, of course blowing the Malibu's fuse.
The car would actually start, run, and drive, but many accessories didn't work right, and the computer was storing a lot of trouble codes.
The codes led the technician to suspect the wiring going to the instrument cluster.........he tested and found out the cluster wasn't getting switched power.......then he started to suspect the alarm and called my boss.
The one thing the tech did NOT do was test for power at the keyswitch, or check the fuses.
All I had to do was replace the fuse, move the alarm's constant-power wire to another location, and ask the dealer to reset the trouble permanent damage.
I'm sure you're in the EXACT same situation I dealt with----the fuse blew, you didn't catch it, and the dealer didn't catch it either.

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