seeking how to x over, eq tutorials

Anyone know of any good, online, easy to understand, X-over and Equalizer tutorials?  Also something to give tips and tricks on what to manipulate for widening staging and focusing imaging?

Thanks.

That's a tall order for "easy to understand"... As far as EQ tutorials, they can be a "set-it-and-forget-it" type of affair, generally trunk mounted, or they can be an in-dash type of unit, designed for constant tweaking of the system. It is all going to depend on what you want to do. Are you intersted in SQ? A trunk mount unit would be my strong recommendation. This way nobody can mess with your settings without a concerted effort. Are you a "bass-head", or otherwise not necessarily interested in true sound quality? In this case a dash-mount would do just fine for you. As far as SETTING an EQ... You'll (probably) not be able to do it by ear, easily. You can do it by ear, so it sounds good to YOU, but that might not be flat. For a flat setting, it takes years of listening time to know exactly what flat sounds like, there isn't any tutorial for that. With an RTA or spectrum analyzer, it'll be obvious what you need to adjust - you can do it "by eye", far more resolving than the ear, but more expensive, and requires more money. Crossovers are a different story altogether. You have to know the specifications and capabilities of the drivers you are using. That will determine your crossover points, for starters. Once you have them set "in general terms", THEN you start back with the EQ, adjusting slopes (if possible) and knee frequency. This can help fix "sound power" issues you might have. Here is what's involved to do it right. (I know that's a long thread, and you DON'T have to read it all, but that's my system, and it's what I just finished doing to my car...) It's a complicated thing to do it properly, and to find something simple to do what you are looking to do (and I am referring specifically to the staging and imaging) isn't easy.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I have Alpine's D310 touch screen, so I can tune any freq, slope, polarity, delay, etc......

Subs are JL 10w6

Mid Bass are Focal 180W  45hz-3khzMids Focal 165K 60hz-3khzTweeters Focal TN45 3khz-20khz

Any advice on crossover settings for these?  The midbass are in the doors, the mid range are in the kicks aimed straight across, and the tweeters are in the a pillars aimed straight across.

Thanks.

Let me start with the crossover points: I'd probaly start around 60Hz to 750 or 800 for the mid-bass, 800 to 3K for the mid, and 3K and up for the tweeter. (Are you tri-amping this system?) Steeper slopes are better, and help with integration, as well as increase (mechanical) power handling for the (especially) mid and tweeter. My system implements 48dB slopes at 65, 200, and 3.7K. These are only suggestions, and may or may not change, based on YOUR install, (please read the second half of my post, regarding this portion specifically) amps, cabin interior, cabin gain, door covering materials... All that stuff will have a play in the overall tuning of your system. EQ will be determined by you, and what specifically you are questing after... As I said in my previous post. Delay will be a bit more difficult. Well, not necessarily DIFFICULT, but certainly more time consuming. Start with measuring the distance to your FURTHEST driver. That's your reference. Then measure the next furthest driver, and apply enough delay to make that driver acoustically the same distance to your ear. Follow those steps for every driver in your system, always delaying the drivers to the reference driver's distance. There's the simplest part, and also the most technical, really. Now, if you'll indulge my opinions, here they are... Brutal truth, mixed with author's opinion follows. The more sensitive members of the audience might wish to cover their ears, or perhaps stop reading here. gah... or maybe I mean GAH!!! First suggestion would be to get all of those drivers MUCH closer together. You'll never get good integration with your mid and tweeter that far apart. And I do mean never... They are simply not close enough together to integrate. Whatever your crossover is, those drivers should never be more than one wavelength apart if at all possible. Example: 3K between the mid and tweeter - that wavelength is .37ft, or 4.4 inches. Those two drivers need to be within 4.4 inches of each other. If you can get the tweeters into the kicks with the mids, that's a step in the right direction, but I still think that the door is a better place still. (I've just never been a big fan of kicks.)It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

4 amps.  All can be switched off individually for tuning.

haemphyst wrote: Whatever your crossover is, those drivers should never be more than one wavelength apart if at all possible. Example: 3K between the mid and tweeter - that wavelength is .37ft, or 4.4 inches. Those two drivers need to be within 4.4 inches of each other.

Dave, do you measure distance between drivers at each's center point or is it the distance between cone edges?

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.