comparing ideas

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kamberkash

Copper - Posts: 89

Joined: March 11, 2007

Location: Kentucky, United States

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged

a guy from another forum thinks its a bad idea to use a deep cycle battery with a ho alternator. this is what was posted:

"Members here have succesfully run 160 (I'm one of them, but I upgraded my cable to the battery from the Alt) and 200 amp alternators from www.mralternator.com

I strongly suggest going with one of those two known successful upgrades, and upgrade your cables, as well as installing another battery behind an isolator. Do NOT use a deep-cycle battery unless you want to fry the investment in your alternator. Use two automotive batteries, with one of them behind an isolator..."

i am trying to get a 250 amp alt from irragi alt, he can get one for me. along with it i want an optima red top. (keep in mind this will likely be an upgrade for the future from what he is suggesting this isnt a good idea.

anyone want to help me figure out why i would need more than one battery, and not the deep cycle redtop?

Alpine Guy

Platinum - Posts: 2,478

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Joined: October 18, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged

The guy (if he even is a guy..not a wana be kid) is obviously very un educated and is completely wrong. The optima red top, and blue top are recommended upgrades, and with that size alternator you will be more than fine to run up to 2000 watts if you wish. A battery in no way can ruin an alternator unless the battery is fried already. A deep cycle battery is nothing more that just a different technology that has low memory. A battery is only there to start your car, and be a reserve until your alternator can catch up to the load which is in the milli second range.

And he's only right about the upgraded cables, but 1/3rd right, you need to also upgrade your ground from the alternator to the body and the body to the battery.

2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

kamberkash

Copper - Posts: 89

Joined: March 11, 2007

Location: Kentucky, United States

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged

so i am going in the right direction with what i want to do, as i thought i was. thanks for the clarification.

looks like i should stick with the best forum for car audio, thanks to the creators of the12volt.com!

there was another dude on the same forum telling me i would need something on the order of 2/0 guage cable for a 250 amp alternator. i can understand his reasoning behind this though. see the battery in my car is under the back seat, so the batt pos to alt pos cable in on the order of 10-14 ft. if i can remember correctly. he suggested that the length of cable i should use be larger than 0 guage, which is what i have installed as of now(along with the engine ground to chassis and batt neg to chassis). i suggested he visit this forum to prove he was indeed misinformed.

the power and ground tables suggest it is ok to use 2 guage cable all the way out to 20 ft for my specified application, which will eventually be around 1200-1400 watts rms.

what would i do without the12volt.com??? comparing ideas - Last Post -- posted image.

kamberkash

Copper - Posts: 89

Joined: March 11, 2007

Location: Kentucky, United States

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 4:05 PM / IP Logged

i have the feeling im about to be hammered by the dudes on the other forum, so i will more than likely be wanting some more info on the topic. i'll let you guys know whats up.

Alpine Guy

Platinum - Posts: 2,478

Joined: October 18, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged

1/0 awg wire will be fine for your run to your battery, but if you can find larger wire and the proper fuse holder and terminals to go larger, then by all means, go big, it's only a little more money now.

2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

dragon51

Copper - Posts: 283

Joined: August 22, 2005

Location: Arizona, United States

Posted: December 13, 2007 at 7:34 PM / IP Logged

I would just stay away from that other fourm the people here know there stuff and won't screw you over just because they can to those who are still learning. And for that matter still learning! comparing ideas - Last Post -- posted image.

comparing ideas - Last Post -- posted image.

That is easy to see when you read there post from the people who just shoot from the hip and who don't.

kamberkash

Copper - Posts: 89

Joined: March 11, 2007

Location: Kentucky, United States

Posted: December 16, 2007 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged

good advice dragon51! i asked the guy how could a battery kill an alternator to see if he had any sort of proof, and here is the responce i got:

"If you want to get a deep cycle battery, get a marine/rv alternator. You will fry an automotive alternator before it's time due to the charging load demanded by a deep cycle battery.

The reason I suggested dual batteries seperated by an isolator was so that you would charge your 'reserve' when you weren't under max load, leaving it to supply demand when you were. This is called duty cycle.

The wrong (or bad) alternator can kill a battery. The opposite is also true. The wrong (or bad) battery can kill an alternator.

The 'Yellow Top Myth' is widely circulated amongst auto audio enthusiasts. It's not really a myth, and has some truth. A deep cycle battery will supply current for longer and 'deeper' into the battery reserves than a typical automotive 'starting' battery can, but what isn't widely discussed is the negative effect it will have on your alternator."

Not exactly sure what the "Yellow Top Myth" is. anyone have a clue?

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comparing ideas

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