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Car Battery Keeps Dying


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omd5 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 07, 2005 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  
I have a civic hatchback and I'm certain that something is draining the battery because the battery keeps dying in 2 or 3 days. Took it to a mechanic and he couldn't figure it out also. Last night, I happened to notice that whenenver I step on the brake, the headlights dim a bit. Is this a sign of my problem, and if it is, what does the sign mean and what should I do about it. Any help here is appreciated because this battery problem is driving me nuts!
vseth 
Copper - Posts: 60
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 29, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: June 07, 2005 at 2:54 PM / IP Logged  
When did you get the battery ? Do you have any 12V addons ( i.e. alarms, starters, amps, foglights, ... ) in the car ? Any history of problems with alternator ?
adrianspeeder 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 07, 2005 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged  
After answering that above question, check for the little things like glovebox, map, underhood, and door lights staying on.
Do you have a multimeter? We can walk you through the steps to exactly find the problem if you do.
Adrianspeeder
'02 F250 PSD, '97 F-150, '71 F-100, '66 F-250, '93, '92, '88, '84 Broncos
Penn State electrical engineerin' major
omd5 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: June 07, 2005
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Posted: June 07, 2005 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged  
I do have an alarm and a stereo system with an amp, but the fuses were pulled from the front, but the drainage still occurrs, so it doesn't look like they were the culprit. I just never seen headlights dim when stepping on the brake, so I figure this may have something to do with the battery drainage. I don't have a multimeter, but I can get one.
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
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Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: June 07, 2005 at 4:14 PM / IP Logged  
The headlights dimming may be something and maybe not. You need to have the battery and charging system checked first. Make sure the battery connections and it's power and ground cables are clean, tight and free of corossion. If the charging and battery check out, then you need to check the vehicle for a battery draw. You will need a digital multi-meter than can handle at least 20 amps of current. Also ask yourself: Did you add anything electronic to the car recently? Post your results and this forum can help you.
sparky
omd5 
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Joined: June 07, 2005
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Posted: June 07, 2005 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, Im gonna get the multimeter...what is the procedure/technique to test with the multimeter then?
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
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Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: June 07, 2005 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  
You can't completely check the alt. and battery with just a meter, but you can do a few things. First, check the cables and connections as I mentioned in the other post. Most vehicles could stand to have their battery and cables cleaned with a brass brush or emery cloth. Secondly, set your meter to a 12 volt DC scale and place the black probe on the negative battery post and the red one to the positive post. You should get a reading of 12 volts or higher. If you don't your battery needs a charge or needs replacing. If that checks, then start the engine while still leaving the meter probes connected. Get someone to watch the meter display while you start the motor. Hopefully your meter will be good enough to react quickly and show you the battery voltage during cranking. It may take a few starts to get an average reading. The voltage shouldn't drop below 9.5 volts during crank. This test isn't always accurate as the quality of the test equipment isn't ideally suited for this test.   After the vehicle is running the voltage should read around 14.4 volts. If it does, turn on some accessories like the headlights, wipers and rear deffogger. The voltage reading may drop a bit but shouldn't go below 12.5 volts. If neither of these last two readings are good then your alt. isn't charging the battery properly. Ask your mechanic if he did a full charging and starting test. There is specific equipment that can thoroughly test both your battery and alt. under proper loads. Ask him if your battery passed a load test. If all this checks out OK, then you'll have to test the battery for a draw. Thats another chapter.
sparky
pimpincavy 
Silver - Posts: 880
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Joined: May 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2005 at 1:17 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like possibly a bad alternator is the lights are dimming.  Do they dim down when just when you step on the brake, or also when the car is at idle??  If the lights are dimming when its at idle your alt is probably dying.  It cant keep up current so its draining from the battery, therefore your battery is dying.
kc0rkx_finch 
Member - Posts: 13
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Joined: February 08, 2005
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
Two of my friends have had the exact same problem.
my first friends had a defective amp that always stayed on evin with the fuse pulled. That was a wierd experience. I dont see how it did it but it did.
My other friend had either a bad alt or one that wasnt strong enough for the system we never had a chance to find out he sold his truck. Heres how to find out though
Try this at night.
1. Start the car.
2. Headlights on high
3. POUND The DAYLIGHTS out of your system. I mean drive it to the point of distortion, but dont blow the sub(s) and see if the headlights dim when the subs hit. In most cars they will a little bit thats normal. If they dim too much, rev the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, if they still do the same thing, your alternator dying.
This test was recommended to me here at the 12 volt and by a mechanich friend. Try it.   see you l8ter.
kc0rkx_finch 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2005 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  
p.s. if you find out what it was,   plz post it for my information
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