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How to fabricate a tight fitting grille


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Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  
I'm about ready to start fabricating a fiberglass sub box to nestle into the corner of my trunk. I'm wanting to make it a fairly stealth install, and I've seen many people do a setup where there is a carpeted grille that cleanly snaps into the ring that the sub is mounted to. Below are some pictures of EXACTLY what I want to accomplish. Can anybody direct me to some information on how to fabricate this type of grille assembly, or explain how to do it? I'd be very interested if the grille is functional, meaning it doesn't have to be removed for listening. I'm a computer consultant, and have to carry computer equipment around in my trunk often, so I would like to keep my trunk usable, and not have to worry about any computer parts damaging the sub. ;) Thanks!
How to fabricate a tight fitting grille -- posted image.
How to fabricate a tight fitting grille -- posted image.
master5 
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Joined: October 10, 2006
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Posted: November 28, 2006 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  

Select Products sells some pretty informative videos on how to make killer custom flush mount grills. But you will need some special tools and materials.

If you want something inexpensive and simple this can be done with basic equipment..

Use a router with a circle guide to make a ring out of 1/2'' MDF...make it slightly smaller so when you adhere the grill cloth or acoustic carpet to it..it will fit snug. And make sure the speaker cone can not touch the grill during high excursion. You want to leave a small "lip" of material that hangs in front of the grill so you have a "pull tab" in event of needed to remove it. This tab can be stapled to an inside edge of the MDF ring. I do it that way all the time and it works great. Use a quality spray adhesive for the material. Spray the ring, and the fabric LIGHTLY..let it tack for a minute..and pull it tight as you wrap it..trim excess with a sharp razor.

In addition I also prime the MDF flat black for cosmetics and to help a bit with moisture..MDF will swell if moist and come apart if wet.

punkbastard 
Copper - Posts: 137
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 11:16 PM / IP Logged  

nicely done sir, pretty much exactly what I was going to say.  The outer diameter of the grill ring should be the same as the inner diameter of the flush mount ring and the inner diameter of the grill ring should be the same as the mounting diameter of the sub.  I typically use grill cloth to cover it but you can do some perforated abs or grill metal, whatever is acoustically transparent really.  Be sure you take your time and fab all these rings prior to starting the project so you dont get to the end and have to take some awkward measurements or anything.  And like master said be sure to take into consideration the thickness of the material being used.  Also, I like to round the bottom outside corner of my grills with a router so that it slides in very easily.

Hey master, nice idea with the pull tab, I likes.

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 11:44 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks..funny too because after looking closer at the picture of the grill (the one where it is off) you can see it has a pull tab on it as well.

I also found out today that some trunkliner is totally acoustically transparent. I am selling an old POS I had for a while..someone gave it to me in exchange for some alarm work on thier other vehicle...the interior is in decent shape except for the headliner and dash cracks (south florida sun is murder on dashes).

So I fixed the headliner with trim adhesive and made a cheesy dash cover out of off the shelf trunkliner. (well it was free..lol)  I cut the cover perfect..it looks like a store bought but before I cut the speaker openings out I laid it over my dash speakers and gave a listen. No loss in sound quality at all..at least that I could tell...so I figure if mids and highs pass through...sub bass should be a non issue...which appears what was done in the above pics..and what he wants..I say go for it.

punkbastard 
Copper - Posts: 137
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 30, 2006 at 9:27 AM / IP Logged  
ha. it does  have a tab.  now i feel like the last one to hear the joke.
Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 02, 2006 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged  
In the pictures above, the sub is a 12" sub... Do you guys think I could go to two Diamond D6 10"s and have the enclosure be about the same size as that one? Obviously the one in the pictures, it tapers back towards the rear seat, with two subs the bulge would be a bit flatter, without the teardrop shape. With a requirement of .6cuft per 10" Diamond D6, do you think the enclosure would start taking up a lot more trunk? Or does this look doable?
I'd like to do all Diamond...the main speakers are all Diamond, and I definitely want a Diamond sub. The 10"s handle 500w each, the 12" does 600. So, I can do a single 12 600w setup, or go dual 10"s and handle 1000 watts. Diamond makes a 1000w amp, but no 600 or 500 watt amp. I'm fairly new to fiberglass fabrication, so I thought I'd get some input from you guys that have done this many times, whether or not this is doable. Thanks!
Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 02, 2006 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged  
One more thing... I notice Diamond does have a 600 watt amp in the D3 line, the D3600.1
Is that a class D amp (their site doesn't specify), and is there a noticeable difference between a D3 and D6 amp? Or for everyday use is a D3 going to be plenty adequate?
punkbastard 
Copper - Posts: 137
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 03, 2006 at 12:21 PM / IP Logged  

Anything is possible my friend!  Well almost anything.  I can't really say how much extra room it is going to take up in your trunk as I don't even know how much room its taking up now.  From the looks of the picture though, that is a pretty beefy box so I would imagine that you wouldn't need to add much more to the design in the way of internal volume, you would just have to change the speaker layout to accomodate two 10's.  Best bet would be to angle them away from each other like 45 degrees so that they are firing away from each other. 

The amp is most likely a class d as it is a mono block but I can't say 100% on that.

I run all my diamond subs in my display room off the d3 amp and it sounds good.

Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2006 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged  
Well, I'm on my way to making this project a reality. I've got a single D612D2 sitting here next to me now, got plenty of fiberglass mat left over from an old project, and just threw out 2.5 gallons of resin I had laying around...and bought 2 gallons of some new fresh stuff. What's interesting, is I live in the New Orleans area. I used to be able to get resin for 12-15 bucks a gallon, pre-Katrina. Now it's going for about $25 a gallon. Interesting how the hurricane effected the pricing around here. I would imagine there's a huge fiberglass market right now, as all the fishermen are probably scrambling to get their boats repaired, so I would think prices would go down.
So, this sub has a serious surround on it, and the xmax is decent, at about 18mm one-way. What I'm thinking is the grill needs to make room for the xmax, so in theory the surround is already sticking out halfway of its potential, so I should probably double that for clearance. Unless you guys know a better method to figure that out. Also, I'm trying to figure out this grill thing still...how thick should it be made, in order to hold together? Both in depth, and in difference between inner and outer diameters. Another thing, since I'll be essentially building an embroidery hoop, I see potential for it to sag in the middle, not to mention flap in and out from the force of the sub. Any ideas on a good way to reinforce the middle of it to not flap? I'm thinking maybe use some of that 1/8" MDF and cut some sort of a spoke pattern into it, but I'm not sure how durable something like that would be, or if it would effect the sound negatively... I appreciate all input, especially knowing what some of you are capable of, it's an honor to learn from some of the best.
For trunk liner, I'm 99% surely going to go with the trunk liner from Select Products. They sent me some small samples, and one of them was a perfect match to my trunk.
punkbastard 
Copper - Posts: 137
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2006 at 11:06 AM / IP Logged  

When I do a grille, it's typically made out of 1/4" mdf and since its outside diameter is equivalent to the total diameter of the sub minus whatever material you are using, and the inner diameter of it is equivalent to the mounting diameter of the sub, it typically ends up being about 1/2".  As for the middle sagging, I haven't had any issues with that, just make sure you pull your material nice and tight while making sure you don't warp the ring and you shouldn't have a problem.  Diamond sent me a bunch of the flying d chrome logos so I decided to put two of them on the port grilles of two of the ported boxes I posted on here about.  Looked awesome but it was funny as hell how they would dance around when the sub was playing.

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