hyper blink of turn signal

Hi, I change my turn signal to led bulbs. But the blink becomes very fast. Maybe due to the low power consumption as the standard bulb takes 21 watts. What can be done to get back the normal blink? The blink is normal when work in hazard light situation. Any bro can assist to solve my problem? Thanks.

An easy way is to wire the normal bulb in parallel with the new bulb so that the right amount of current is present. The old bulb can be wrapped in tin foil and hidden somewhere safe out of site (where heat won't damage anything). Another fix would be to use a resistor to simulate the bulb. The best solution is to use an electronic flasher instead of an electromechanical one.Kevin Pierson

KP x 2. Best is the last - modify the (flasher) can. (Buy a suitable flasher, though some electronic flashers can be modified.) Otherwise yes, the old bulb in parallel with the new. Although they may require as regular replacement, that is cheaper and often easier than buying the equivalent resistor (aka ballast or charge equaliseretc). As to paying the $20 that I have seen for the commercial kits (resistors) - which seem to be $20 per "bulb" - ie, $80 - I find amusement at those that have used LEDs to save power and then end up using the same amount... (Those that use LEDs for their faster response are cool - at least until the sun washes out the LEDs...)

Thanks for the replies. It seems to cost me more instead of saving using led's. If such then has no choice but to revert to bulbs. For the rear lights and stop/tail lights is OK. Just the turning giving problem. By the way how is electronic flasher looks like? Is it easy to make the switch? What value of resistor is necessary? Other than fixing at the bulb, any other place to put it to get back to normal blink.

Stop & tail etc are ok unless you have a blown bulb sensor (they usually sense current). You can get electronic flashers (FOR LEDs!) in the usual configurations. (There are 2 wire & 3-wire flashers etc.) They should plug straight in. They usually look like a cubish black relay with 2 or 3 pins. Each resistor is typically 10 Ohm 25 Watt, else 5 Ohm 50 Watt per pair. More common 20 Watt resistors can be used, but they should really be over 10 Ohm (say 10.4 Ohm). Many suppliers bank on the 10 Ohm 20W resistors burning out - they run at full rating. (The formula is P=VV/R where P = their dissipated power, V = voltage, & R in Ohms. EG = P = 14.4V * 14.4V /10 Ohm = 20.7W). Note that the flasher can won't indicate (pun intended) if a LED fails. The resistor can be placed at each "bulb" (front & rear, not the smaller side flashers) else combined anywhere (or a 20Ohm 50W used) after the flasher can and switch for each side. If you have an electronic flasher, if it can be modified, its resistor depends on the model. That involves merely changing the current feedback resistor - typically a 5c 1/2W or 1/4W resistor.

I know this post is a month old but here is my take on it. I work at a place that sells resistors for this purpose. They are 10 ohm 50 watt and don't cost all that much, about $12 a pair. Only two are needed to make the original flasher work OK. Just wire one on each side anywhere in the circuit to the rear brake lights. It's usually easier to do back there than under the hood. Splice one end to the "hot" wire and the other to ground on most vehicles. They do heat up a little so they need to be placed accordingly so they don't hurt anything. The most common use is in after market service bodies going on pickups. Power usage being the same? Maybe so, but the LED's will last for years while the regular bulbs will eventually burn out. They are just different and classy, that's all.Joe in Texas

Some flashers will need 2 resistors per side as one only looks as if one bulb has blown. (10 Ohm is 21W. And good to see them use 50W resistors instead of borderline 20W.) Each resistor dissipates 21W so power is the same as ordinary bulbs. Hence why many just hide the original bulbs (ie, wired in parallel to the LED(s) as that can be easier to mount and not as expensive - though yes, they will eventually blow). I've seen those resistors for up to $20 EACH down here! The real answer is to get a LED flasher can, though they won't signal a faulty LED (except for some units which get expensive). Some make their own flasher with a 555 or other 85 cpm oscillator driving a relay, though that usually requires a rewire - ie, diode-fed the flasher sits after the left/right switch and the switch energises a LHS or RHS relay respectively (or maybe less preferably can energise an SPDT relay that to switches away from the default NC side). Plus some LEDs substitutes may be illegal - most vehicle are only legal with the lamps they were originally fitted with. Not that most would care - until insurance decides not to pay due to "washed out" LED lighting, or a technically "non-compliant" vehicle.

Actually my purpose of changing to led lights to have long lasting bulbs. Also it has more led's, even 1 pc not working does not matter. Like the T10 pilot lights in front of headlights. Led's cannot withstand heat. Anyway, I live with the hyper blink on turn signal now since n cheap options to solve it. Do not wish to do anything to it. Thanks anyway for all the advise given.

The local authorities will probably let you know if hyperblinking is legal or not. They are very helpful that way, though their non-optional imposed consultation fees can be expensive. (And points can be involved.) PS 10Nov11 Not that it's worth a reply, but if this gets noticed....

7seater wrote: Led's cannot withstand heat.

Isn't that a confusion with LEDs don't like hot junction temperatures? ie - overcurrent or inadequate heatsinking as opposed to being able to operate in a warm or hot area. But AFAIR, LEDs follow the 10°C rule (ie, every 10°C increase halves their life).