2018 Chevrolet Silverado, Aftermarket Cargo Lights

Hey guys, I have a 2018 Chevy Silverado crew cab I recently installed a rack on my pickup truck. I have two led pod lights on the rack that I would like to wire into my existing cargo light switch, AND to my reverse lights. -With some research, The below drawing is my best guess as to how I should wire it. Is this the correct way it should be wired? Does anyone have a better solution? Do I need to use two relays to accomplish what I am looking for? Thanks! Danny V. Danny v

Your diagram may work fine, (either with an extra fuse, or connecting 86 after the fuse for 87) but without knowing more about your LED's, I can't say for certain. What are the electrical specs for your LED's (total wattage/ total amperage)? If they draw more than a few amps, you should wire differently: My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

They are 18 watt and draw less than one amp each. (I have a total of 2) I think that I will just connect 86 after the fuse on 87 as to eliminate one inline fuse. Would you recommend a fuse between 87a and the reverse light wire I tap into? I am thinking being as their draw is so little that a 5amp fuse would suffice, or should I go with a 10? thanks for the input! Danny V.Danny v

I didn't think to look this up before, but your truck's back up bulbs are rated at 18 watts a piece. Adding an extra 18 watts to this circuit may not be advisable. Maybe it'd work fine, but I can't say for sure. You could go with my previous diagram, or if your cargo light switch is already wired to give a ground, this will work: You might want to wire in a buzzer so you don't accidentally leave the switch on and drain the battery. Or if you only use the cargo lights when the key is on, use an accessory or ignition source for power.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

geepherder wrote: I didn't think to look this up before, but your truck's back up bulbs are rated at 18 watts a piece. Adding an extra 18 watts to this circuit may not be advisable. Maybe it'd work fine, but I can't say for sure. You could go with my previous diagram, or if your cargo light switch is already wired to give a ground, this will work: You might want to wire in a buzzer so you don't accidentally leave the switch on and drain the battery. Or if you only use the cargo lights when the key is on, use an accessory or ignition source for power.

I am not sure I understand your diagram. I am pretty new to using relays and most electrical in general. I wired it up the way I had it drawn and it worked fine, but when I replaced the "switch" and wired it into my actual cargo light switch on my dash, the pod and cargo lights never turned off. It was getting constant power. I used my multi meter on the wiring harness on the back of the cargo light switch, and wired it to the wire that was getting 12 volts when the switch was on and 0 when it was off. however being as it was coming from 85 (which I believe is getting constant power because 86 is hooked directly to the battery.) the lights wont turn off. Even with the truck off and the key out of the ignition. I am not too worried about a buzzer, because my cargo lights will turn off when you turn the key off and open the door. If I need to use them to work in the bed of my truck I will just leave the key on, or run the truck. I appreciate all of your help. Danny V.Danny v

I am drawing the physical layout of the relay terminals on a standard automotive relay. If you are using a different relay, your layout may be different. See here for a more in depth explanation: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/spdt-and-spst-automotive-relays.asp How many wires go to the back of the factory switch? With the circuit you are hooking up completely disconnected/isolated from the factory switch, do you have voltage to the wires on the back of the switch?My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.