jl 12w6v2 vs infinity 12.1d

I would like to know what is better and why (sq & spl) I currently have 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1D subs wire so they are each 2 ohms. I had 250W going into each of them. I just bought a Rockford Fosgate t10001bd amp which is 1000W @ 1 ohm so I'm going to wire the subs parallel/parallel. so would those 2 infinity subs @ 500W a piece be fine? or would upgrading to 2 jl 12w6v2 be good? I plan to make my own sealed box using JL specs. Also I want 2 because I still want some spl. I'm guessing that these will be louder than the infinitys but I don't know. These subs will be paired up with a Kicker 0/1 gauge wiring and Stinger dream series interconnects. I will also have diamond audio Hex series components in the front, and Alpine Type-R components in the rear. So I'm mostly going for sq like I said before but I still want to to be loud. I heard from someone else that my 2 infinitys are louder than 1 12w6v2 so I don't want to lose spl. but is it a good idea to change subs? As for the car... It is a 1991 Saturn SC. I have very little trunk space which is why I'm going with 2 smaller sealed boxes. I also have a "false floor" over the amps and wiring which are all on the floor of the trunk.

I belive he said in his original statement that he DID NOT want to run one ohm and was choosing 4 ohm. It is worded a little funny though so Im not suredouble-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Thanks. You are probably right tschicky that I am more concerned about spl than sq. IMO 1 jl 12w6v2 and diamond audio hex (what my friend has) sounds awesome. I know it isn't the top of the line but I think it sounds great which is why I really wanted to upgrade the subs and speakers. Also for sq I thought that the rear speakers really didn't matter that much since they really aren't even needed for good imaging. I've heard of people not even using the rear speakers in their car. In my car you can barely hear them, they are just used for fill so I don't see why it would be a problem to put alpines in the back and diamonds in the front since the alpines will just be for fill, but I'm sure you guys know better than me so I might eventually upgrade the rear speakers. Also from what my friend told me my current MTX amp isn't good enough(power/sq) for the diamonds so I was looking at the new alpine amps. I think it is called something like p2-200? It is a class D amp. Back to the subs though... Just looking at SPL will I see a large increase in spl going to the W6 subs? Also should I upgrade my power/ground wires to 0/1 gauge? I currently have 4 Ga jl wires and if there is no need to upgrade then why should I waste $100 on that. As for my electrical system, I plan to do "the big 3" when I install the subs. My battery is just a higher end walmart battery which I'm guessing sucks. And my alternator is stock so probably around 100A. I do want to upgrade it to a 200A alternator and get a better battery but I don't think they are worth it for this car since the alternator is car specific. MAYBE the battery.

Well I guess I can't edit my post but to ravendarat, I am wiring it parallel/parallel which would make it a 1 ohm load. I don't see why I would buy a 1 ohm stable amp if I was only going to run it at 4 ohms. How much draw will 1 ohm put on my electrical system vs. 4 ohm? Actually wouldn't it be around 80A?

Since I am really a home audio guy this statement is only what I can regurgitate based on talking with other car audio guys and the basic princliples of electronics/electricity. When you run your amp at one ohm you increase the power output - this is done by drawing more amps from your electrical system By doing so, the amp will run hotter. Electronics for the most part do not enjoy heat (infact a few posts here point to it as being "the killer"). So you will place a larger strain on your electrical system at all times thus shortening the life of not only your amps but also that of your alternator and battery. Sure upgrading the alternator is a sensible resolution to this however, depending on the age of your car it is often very difficult and incredibly expensive to upgrade based on increased sizes requiring heavy engine bay modifications as well as possible ECU changes due to regulators being in place in many of today's vehicles. This is why "The Big 3" focus on vehicle wiring instead of alternator changes. Hopefully someone can chime in on this and confirm or deny my accusations. Like I said I am going from memory on this one. I also just read a post regarding the whole 1 ohm vs. 4 ohm where someone made the comment of the system only performing 3.xx db lower in 4 ohm even though power was incredibly reduced. I believe you can find my thread referring to me hooking up 2 subs to my amp and how I wanted to run it in 4 ohm vs. 1 ohm even though it would short my subs there requested RMS power. The responses that I am getting seem to point to it not being a huge issue. Granted my system is purely (well 95% at least) SQ. May not work for you...

Running at 1 ohm increases your THD as well, running at 4 ohm will give you a cleaner output. As for your speaker question, timbre matching is important for proper sound HOWEVER I am one of the people that dont use rear speakers at all as they do throw imaging off. I have them in my vehicle on a seperate amp that only comes on when I hit a switch to do so as I do have passangers and a 8 person SUV so just fronts wouldnt be enough for them. Either way if you run rears they SHOULD be matched if you are a serious SQ guy but if in reality you just want a system that hammers and doesnt sound like complete trash than you are probally fine in what your doing.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer