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2008 kia rio, replace speakers


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rick martin 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 12:47 AM / IP Logged  

My girlfriend has a 2008 Kia Rio and basicly wants to retain the factory headunit while replacing the 4 factory speakers and run them from a amp (no sub)

What would be the best way to achieve this with good quality sound?  Look speakers at 4ohms 70wRMS.

Any help or setup suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

i am an idiot 
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Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 1:19 AM / IP Logged  
With this being a very new car are you really sure you want to tackle this job? It is very easy to destroy the output IC in a lot of these newer decks. If that does happen and you are lucky enough to live somewhere that has a repair shop that will even attempt to repair the unit, it could cost you 200 dollars to get it repaired. A part will have to be ordered, probably coming from Hong Kong and taking a couple weeks to get here. All this time she is not happy with you. So if you still want to do this for her, you will need to purchase 2 Line Out Converters at 20 bucks each, an amp wiring kit probably about 40 bucks and some additional speaker wire. And an additional RCA cable long enough to reach from behind the radio to the amp mounting location. Remove the radio and locate the speaker wires. I should remember to post the info at the end of this post. You will have to cut those speaker wires from the harness going into the deck, cut them far enough away from the plug so you can connect a wire to each end of the cut wire. Connect the LOC to the wires that come from the radio. You then need to get 4 lengths of speaker wire long enough to go from the back of the radio to the location you plan to mount the amplifier. Connect the 4 wires to the wires that you have remaining. Run those along with a remote wire and the 2 RCA cables that you purchased to the location of the amp. Make sure you do not run the wires through the steering linkage, behind the accelerator pedal or the brake pedal, remove panels and hide the wires under the carpet, being careful not to drive any screws through any of the wires you just put behind the panels. You will also need to run the power wire from the battery location to the amp location. You should be able to find a grommet or a rubber boot under the hood that you can get the wire through. If you can't find a suitable location DO NOT run it through the fender and inside the door. She will be laughed at and you do not want that. Put the fuse holder that the kit supplied you with AT the battery. Don't put the fuse in untill the job is complete. Now that all of the wires are at the amp you can connect them. Connect the ground terminal first. Then power and remote. In order to figure out which speaker wire is for which speaker, strip the ends of the wire and touch the wires to a 9 volt battery. Positive wire to positive battery post. Neg to neg   this will make the speaker at the other end make a pop everytime you touch the wires to it. You should be able to hear which speaker it is. Connect it to the appropriate channel of the amp. The remote wire still needs to be connected to the radio. Try the power antenna wire of the radio first. If the radio plays but the CD does not, you will have to connect it to the accessory or switched wire of the radio.
Are you sure you don't want to talk her into just adding a sub and sub amp?
     Battery          RED          (+)          RADIO HARNESS          
     Accesory          GREEN          (+)          RADIO HARNESS          
     Ground          BLACK          (-)          RADIO HARNESS          
     Illumination          YELLOW          (+)          RADIO HARNESS          
     Dimmer          BLACK/ ORANGE          (-)          RADIO HARNESS          
     Power Antenna          PINK          (+)          RADIO HARNESS          
     LF Speaker (+)          BROWN          
     LF Speaker (-)          WHITE          
     RF Speaker (+)          BLACK          
     RF Speaker (-)          YELLOW          
     LR Speaker (+)          RED          
     LR Speaker (-)          BLUE          
     RR Speaker (+)          GREEN          
     RR Speaker (-)          ORANGE
rick martin 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 6:00 AM / IP Logged  

I should add I have a back ground in Electronic Engineering so repairing damage to the unit is no problem, it is just I have had almost zero to do with car audio in the past and am not awear of what people are doing these days to get around this problem.  I had a few ideas but they seemed very technical for what essentially should be a simple-ish project.

What you have said seems logical and is very detailed so I will look in to doing it this way so thank you mate.

Why would having a sub and sub amp be better?

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 6:30 AM / IP Logged  
It would just be easier, and it would allow you to turn the bass down on the radio, thus allowing a bit more volume out of the radio since the internal amp of the radio is not trying to reproduce so much low frequency information. Twenty years ago I would say you need to change everything to get a decent sound from your vehicle, but the manufacturers are putting much better equipment in their vehicles. Usually just adding a sub and a sub amp will really give you the best bang for the buck.
rick martin 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 6:38 AM / IP Logged  

I understand what you are saying there but after talking to her retaining boot space it vital and money is not really an option but retaining the factory headunit is a must.

So is what you outlined in you first post the best course of action based on these conditions do you think?

haemphyst 
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Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 8:11 AM / IP Logged  
Whichever way you decide to do it, PLEASE DON'T CUT THE HARNESS! Metra makes harness adapters to go both ways, into the radio (71-1004), and into the car's harness (70-1004).
http://www.metraonline.com/
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
rick martin 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 9:02 PM / IP Logged  
Could you explain why?
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  
1: Ease.
2: Accuracy.
3: Reversibility.
Those are the three big ones, IMO. The 40 dollars you spend will reward you when you go to get rid of the car.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
rick martin 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  

Ah okay, I thought there was a serious issue with taping in to the factory harness but all good.

Thanks for the information and will go out a purchase the components first and then design how I am going to install them.


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