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trying to find a +12v dc source for amp


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brentonboy 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 5:09 PM / IP Logged  
[I have searched the forums but I must be using the wrong search terms because I can't find the answer I need. If this has already been answered elsewhere, I apologize! Just post the search terms you used or a link to the thread and I will go there. Thanks.]
My car is a 2000 Honda Civic EX.
My sub-woofer amp (Rockford-Fosgate Punch 500 a2 [1999 model]) needs the "REM Terminal" hooked up. The manual says this needs to be a switched positive 12v DC source. The manual for the amp says this:
      "The switched voltage is usually taken from the source unit's auto antenna or the accessory lead."
But I don't know what those are or if my car has that. I also have a on/off switch that I can hook it through if need be, because the manual also said:
      "If the source unit does not have these outputs available, the recommended solution is to wire a mechanical switch in line with a 12 volt source to activate the amplifier."
Is it a bad idea to share a 12v source from some thing else that is also using it? Will that give half power to each, or fry something?
ckeeler 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 5:20 PM / IP Logged  
find the 12v wire on the back of the radio that turns on and off with the key and tie into that wire. test using only a DMM
brentonboy 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 5:35 PM / IP Logged  
This car doesn't have a radio. When I got it it had a different audio system installed. I didn't like it so I replaced it with a CD player.
I guess maybe I'm just confused by what you mean by "radio." Do you mean the antenna connector?
brentonboy 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged  
I can't find the edit function...
anyway, this is the manual for the CD player I bought: http://www.dualav.com/i/product/manual/xdm6400.pdf
It has unused yellow and red wires coming out the back that say:
"Red: Accessory--connect to exisiting ignition circuit or switched 12 volt source"
"Yellow: Memory--connect to battery circuit or constant 12 volt source"
I feel like what I need is related to these, though the CD player works fine with these two not hooked up.
ckeeler 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged  

the unit works without those hooked up?? weird. anyway, is there a blue wire on the back? or blue/white wire?

brentonboy 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 6:03 PM / IP Logged  
ckeeler wrote:

the unit works without those hooked up?? weird. anyway, is there a blue wire on the back? or blue/white wire?

Ok, I was wrong about the yellow and red wires. I had it mixed up. I spliced all the matching colors out of the back of my CD player into an adapter. There are two extra wires coming out of the *adapter* that aren't used. There are two wires on the other side of the plug though... so the car seems to want something hooked up there?
The blue wire is currently spliced into the adapter, but I looked at where it plugs into the actual car, and it looks like it's not being used!
brentonboy 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, I went and looked again.
The blue wire is plugged into the adapter and then into the car plug. However, there is no wire on the car-side of the plug, so it is not being used. I hooked that up and it did it. Thanks so much! Now the only problem is the crackling in the radio, but I think I should post that in a new thread.
stevdart 
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Posted: November 13, 2008 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~89047~PN~1~FID~2~PR~3

As the subject warns, keep all your forthcoming questions in this thread, even as the subject matter changes.  It's the same install.

As for your earlier question re: "Is it a bad idea to share a 12v source from some thing else that is also using it? Will that give half power to each, or fry something?"

It's okay to do if you are ever in a situation where you don't have a turn-on wire attached at the deck.  You could use any wire in the car that is showing 12 volts when the ignition is switched on for this function.  The power draw of the amp turn-on is nearly infinitesimal.

I suggest that the crackling is a loose wire connection somewhere.  Thorough troubleshooting of all speaker wiring is in order.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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