the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

new school ground noise modem


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
talarchevy 
Copper - Posts: 49
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
2013 F150 crew cab w/FORD sync (keeping stock deck)
Kicker 2 way coaxials (front & rear doors already installed)
Scosche SLC4 LOC / FAI-3A(alternate part#)
Pioneer shallow SVC 4 ohm sub w/small truck box
Memphis audio SRX 4.300 2ch on highs, sub bridged on other ch
4ga q-power amp kit
I apologize in advance lots of info below
Here's my problem, I encounter ground noise through speakers ONLY when the low beams are on. Its weird, Ive done some searches looking for some solutions. There's no noise with any other stock accessories or factory options turned on. Its not the usual ground noise either, it almost sounds like an old school dial up modem, once in a while it will be true engine ground noise. Its mainly noticeable at lower volumes no matter what the source is(aux input,sirius,cd,fm,am,etc). I have already added an additional 4 ga batt to engine ground and 8 ga batt to fender ground also. My RCA's are running down center from deck to amp mounted under front passenger seat. The 4ga pwr was running along side factory wire tray on passenger side, I slid it away at least 4-5 inches from factory wires, I replaced my self tapper ground screw and used a 1/4" bolt w/lock washer and nut. Im using a fuse tap @ passenger fuse panel labeled as ing sw for my remote turn on lead. The fancy LOC has extra ground wire for common ground systems etc, I've tried grounding it and switching functions on LOC and have no success. With the previous corrections I've made it made minimal changes. Again this noise only happens when the low beams are on, Any suggestions are greatly appreciated
Go BIG or go Home                                    it might not be broke, but lets fix it anyway
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
Are you using HIDs, or LEDs with a ballast?
If so, it could be ballast (dc-dc converter) noise.
Otherwise I'd suspect a common power path somewhere for the beams and your system. Taking system power from the battery +12V usually solves it - and system GND from the batt- if that's not enough. After that, it's a case of elimination...
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  
HID lamps?
talarchevy 
Copper - Posts: 49
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  
Nope, no HIDs, stock bulbs and stock fog lights. Im tired of the ebay special HIDs packages full of problems. No HIDs for this truck.
Go BIG or go Home                                    it might not be broke, but lets fix it anyway
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, then a common path else other issues.
Is all (audio) system power taken direct from the battery, or does it share +12V or GND paths with the headlights?
talarchevy 
Copper - Posts: 49
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: December 06, 2013 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
The amp is directly off of battery by 4ga, the radio is the stock ford deck with sync, it is hot at all the times, run by data for switched on/off.
Go BIG or go Home                                    it might not be broke, but lets fix it anyway
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 7:36 AM / IP Logged  
have you upgraded the factory battery and alternator wiring to accommodate the increased power draw from the amp? i used to have noise issues with an alpine PDX amp i was using and when i upgraded my factory wiring it eliminated about 90% of the noise and then i used some other tricks to get the last little bit of noise out. the thing that made the most difference was when i ran a 4 gauge ground from battery to frame because the stock ground was probably 8 gauge, and everything in the car has to run through that single 8 gauge to get back to the battery. adding a thicker ground will relieve stress on your factory system and allow the cars electronics to function more or less independently from your audio system.
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 7:52 AM / IP Logged  
does the truck have DRLs?

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, April 25, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer