Good system for a '95 F-150?

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flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 17, 2005 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged

I have an old style F-150. I did a search and it looks like most of you are driving the newer trucks.

Once I'm done fixing all of my interior rattles, I'm looking to put together a nasty system. The previous owners took the interior apart, but didn't seem to put it back so well.

Right now I have a cheap Clarion HU which was free with the truck, some polk 5.25" in the doors wich are probably blown. It's hard to tell with all of the rattles in my doors.

The cream of the crop is my friend's old JL Audio 'wedge' 10" sub in a sealed box, made for trucks. He had this in his old '91 F-150 and it did the job well. I have not hooked this up. The truck needs some security first and those rattles fixed too. It will also be installed with the usual 'inconveniences' for thieves.

Should I just invest in the Q-logic kick panels, dyna-mat or like materials and only use the front channels? I have a 75x2 RF amp to use, which was previously used for the sub. I think it worked ok, but I have the feeling a JL 300.1 would do much better.

Or...dyna-mat/fix rattles as best as can do, run four identical 5.25" drivers or component speakers from a 4 channel amp?

I'm not saying money is no object, but if I go through the trouble, it should be as close to perfect as possible...right?

Anyways....I want SQ with reasonable power. I want to be happy with my music at all times, even if I'm stuck with Armenian polka tunes.

Yes, I'm open to a new HU...especially since this one does 'ERROR 6' with most of my burned CDs.

forbidden

Platinum - Posts: 5,352

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Joined: November 01, 2003

Location: Alberta, Canada

Posted: June 17, 2005 at 11:35 PM / IP Logged

Eclipse 5 volt head unit or if you think you need the time alignment etc, then the 8volt unit. A good 6.5" oversize component set (that you can either mount the tweeter in pointsource arrangement) would be ideal. You will need to make a small baffle from 1/2 mdf and resin it. The backside of the baffle needs to be angled in from the front to fit nice and tight to the sheetmetal. Power the snot out of them. If you can't mount that tweeter dead center, take some double sided tape and experiment with them in different mounting spots, low on the a-pillar, high on the door etc.

A good 10" or a pair of 10" subs (if you need more bass) will do great in this truck. If it is a reg cab and you are say 6', consider the shallow mount AVI sl500 sub. Just finished one of these trucks with a system like this last week and another to do on Wednesday next week. They can sound great if done right.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 18, 2005 at 8:31 AM / IP Logged

Thanks for the advice Forbidden. I have considered making my own kick panels. I'm sure they would be better than the cheap plastic Q-logic kick panels that would most likely need to be worked over anyways.

I think the rear speakers which are actually 6x8" according to the vehicle info...won't sound good where they are. It seems like a waste of time to try and work with those.

I like the sound of that 8v unit, but I might be out of money when it comes to two subs. I already have one 10" JL Audio in a truck box, it will fit behind the seats with the seats all the way back.

You guessed right, it is a regular cab and I'm not quite 6', but 5'10"...the seat is allways as far back as it can go.

"Power the snot out of them."...yes, you can be sure I'll be doing that too!

Blowntweeters

Silver - Posts: 650

Joined: June 03, 2005

Location: Nevada, United States

Posted: June 18, 2005 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged

iif your going to be running short of money with this system check out www.ikesound.com you can get a pioneer head unit with 4 volt preouts for right around $200 they also have components for under $100 if you want to save some money and get all the gear you want and need and still have some cash left this might help

1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 19, 2005 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged

Thanks again!

I'll admit, I know high end gear is the quickest and easiest solution. I also know some equipment gets the job done on much lower budjets. Most of my systems these days are either free or very low bujet. One stolen car with a very expensive system and other expenses leads me to be much more conservative these days.

I won't be winning any competitions. All I want is something which sounds good to me. If my passengers say "how can an old beat up truck have such a nice stereo?"...that will bring a grin to my face too!

I have a Sony X-plode amp with some kind of cross-talk problem with the input channels, a Coustic amp with a shorted output transistor...then my cousin has a free 4ch Jensen that works fine. Any of these will get me by. In most cases, even a cheap amp aounds better than HU power. I have the 75x2 RF punch amp, this worked ok for the sub, but I'd rather use it for just the speakers.

I'm not so cheap because I'm cheap. I'm cheap because I will put $1200 of new gear in there only to see it all get ripped off the next day.

I put free/makeshift stuff in there, get it to sound good...no one will touch it!

My last car had a free Kenwood CD player in it. Some crackhead broke in, stole $0.31 from my ash tray, found the faceplate in the glovebox and LEFT the whole stereo!

klee1981

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: May 07, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: June 19, 2005 at 8:40 AM / IP Logged

im going to get lynched for this, but I just installed a whole set of new pioneer interior speakers in my friends Kia, all from wal mart, on head unit power, a pawn shop bought low end kicker 12" in a walmart box, with a free majesic (never even heard of it) amp this guy found that has maybe 250 watts. I think the system sounds pretty good. I think the total for his crap was under 200.00 not bad.

I installed my stereo in my Grand Prix, all infinity insteriors, and 2 perfect 12" subs, hifonics zx6400 amp for the interiors and a jbl bp1200.1 for the subs. It gets super loud, and cleaner the louder it is, and I am losing my hearing noticably. Ive only got 700.00 in my trunk

I did have legacy amps for the insides before I got my hifonics zx6400, i don't notice a difference in sound, but the hifonics has lasted a lot longer.

do what you want, but I say if your on a budget, start cheap and work your way up in the areas you think need improving. with me it was head unit, subs, then upgrading the subs, and amps, then new interior speakers on HU power, then amps for the interiors and so on, ect, et al.

Good luck

Kevin

Sony CDX-f5700

Hifonics Zeus 170x4 zx6400

JBL BP1200.1

2 infinity Perfect 12" subs

1.70cft, 37hz

Infinity CS5000 Front 5.25" and Tweeters

Infinity Kappa 6x9" Rear Mids

Pioneer 4" rear tweeters

flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 19, 2005 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged

At least it's not 'Urban Audio Works'

Pioneer makes ok speakers in my opinion. I don't like cheap stuff, but I have been known to get good results from oddball stuff once and awhile.

Watch the volume, it's no good to be losing your hearing already. The whole idea of having a high power system is not having to max the volume to hear your music.

I like stuff with solid circuitry which puts out real power, not made up lighting rod numbers.

That doesn't mean I'll turn my nose up at a free or repairable Sony or other lower end amp. I'll probably take it and toss it in my car or someone else's.

SoundAudio

Copper - Posts: 242

Joined: May 26, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 20, 2005 at 9:35 AM / IP Logged

I have a 92 f-150. I have 2 kenwood 10" excelon dB subs in two sealed enclosures. Running those is a Kenwood Excelon mono amp(from the same year so it is the silver one with the blue diamond) it is running about 600 watts. I have a kenwood excelon hu 717. I replaced my factory speakers with kenwood 3 ways. It sounds pretty good but I haven't done any sound dampening, and they are noisy vehicles especially with road noise. I have found that the rear stage greatly over powers the front stage because of speaker position. I would recommend going with kick panels. I know the q logic ones require a substantial amount of reinforcement to sound good so you might consider building your own. I haven't done a dampening but i would focus on the rear pillars, because I know they radiate noise bad, so does the roof. Also the doors where the handle is really needs reinforcement. The door panel helps to keep that from rattling but it still rattles a lot. Let me know if I can help you with anything else. Good Luck!

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Good system for a '95 F-150?

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