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phoenix gold sound system


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hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:33 PM / IP Logged  

I am putting my previous system into my new car and need some opinions.

This is what my system consists of:

Alpine IVA-W205 Head Unit (haven't yet but am considering it)

x4 Phoenix Gold X5.0 Components (150wrms)ea.

x3 Phoenix Gold X10D4 Subs (450rms)ea.

Phoenix Gold X1200.1 Amp (1200wrms)

Phoenix Gold X200.4 Amp (200wrms/ch)

I also have 2,  1 farad Caps but after reading that debate on them I think I am going to go without them. What I would like to know is the wiring part and fusing. I have read the sticky's and other post but am very confused. Let me know what you would do with this exact system, ie. wiring, how many batteries, alt. upgrade, etc?

Also, my subs can be wired into 1 and 4 ohm. Which is preferred and why?

Anyways, if this isn't making any sense or if there is anything else I need to inform you on (about this system, lol) let me know.

Thanks,

Corey

hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry forgot to mention this. Would it be better off that I go with 2 subs oppose to 3. That way I am overpowering the subs rather than underpowering? Another question, how do I know if my amp is putting out its rated 1200wrms? Do the gains and bass boost have to be cranked to achieve the full power?

Thanks again

aznboi3644 
Gold - Posts: 2,600
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:52 PM / IP Logged  
First thing you should to to your electrical system is upgrade your BIG THREE
three subs will be fine...I always like the look of three sub setups.
No...the gains and boost do NOT need to be cranked. They are not volume knobs. To correctly set your gains you'll need a DMM, clamp meter, and a oscilliscope. Or you could take it to a shop that has those things and have them do it for you for a small price
hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 16, 2007 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged  

aznboi3644 wrote:
 To correctly set your gains you'll need a DMM, clamp meter, and a oscilliscope. Or you could take it to a shop that has those things and have them do it for you for a small price

Thanks for the quick reply, aznboi. I have never heard or the above mentioned so I think I will have to get a shop to do that for me. My 3 subs have a combined power rating of  1,350 wrms and my amp only puts out 1200, is that not bad for the amp? Is it possible that I could run one power wire for the 2 amps? If so, what gauge and how far from the amp should it be split? Also, do I use only one fuse for the 2 amps? This is what really is confusing me right now since I have never wired up 2 amps with one wire.

I had asked a buddy at work about a line drive? He said I wouldn't need it, is that true? What does that do exactly?

hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 17, 2007 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
Still need some questions answered..... anyone?
kamberkash 
Copper - Posts: 89
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2007
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: June 17, 2007 at 10:54 AM / IP Logged  
you certainly can wire two amps with one power wire, but in order to get the power to each amp you need a distribution block. you run the power from the battery to the block, then the block will divide that power to the two amps. does this make sense?
hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 17, 2007 at 11:32 AM / IP Logged  

kamberkash wrote:
you certainly can wire two amps with one power wire, but in order to get the power to each amp you need a distribution block. you run the power from the battery to the block, then the block will divide that power to the two amps. does this make sense?

I already knew that, what I need to know is what guage would I run from the battery and then what guage wire should I use when I split it? As well, do I still fuse it by the battery or does it get fused in the distribution block? Or both? Since I am putting out 2000wrms should I use a 200a fuse? Thats what I need to know. And if anyone could answer my question about wiring my subs into a 1 or 4 ohm load, which is better and why?

Thanks.

aznboi3644 
Gold - Posts: 2,600
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2007 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
I would use atleast 2 gauge or bigger for the main power wire...then split it off with 4 gauge...then 4 gauge grounds will suffice
You still need to fuse the wire near the battery...every power wire coming from the battery should be fused for safety.
Fuse size is determined by the current handling of the wire.
make sure to read the ground sticky Power and Ground link on the left blue column
I always recommend a good fused distribution block using wafer style fuses. AGU fuses suck.
It really doesn't matter what load you wire the subs to that amp...they will be getting the same power.
hub_n_hun 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: June 17, 2007 at 8:21 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks alot aznboi!

I just have a few more questions just clear things up.  What size fuse should be used for the dis. block? And, since there are going to be more than one fuse should all the fuse ratings be added together to equal the proper fuse rating? Again, thanks alot.

Corey

aznboi3644 
Gold - Posts: 2,600
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: June 18, 2007 at 12:46 AM / IP Logged  
You can do that....but since the runs will be short from the d-block to the amps i'd start off with a 60 amp fuse for the 4 channel with 8 gauge and a 100 amp fuse for the mono amp with 4 gauge coming out of the block
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