valet 561t remote start, 95 monte carlo

Hello,

I was hoping someone could give me a hand.  I don't usually tackle installs like this (electrical) so I don't always seem to understand what the directions are directing me to do.  So far the install has been going very smoothly, thankfully.  I do have a question on 3 wires though.  I will post exactly what is says in the install manual:

This remote start, Valet Model 561T is being installed on a 1995 Chevy Monte Carlo Z34.

H1/4 WHITE/ Blue (-) remote start activation input

This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses.  This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the WHITE/ blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate.

NOTE: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1,2 or 3 pulses.

----------- Then it shows a picture of a momentary switch with one wire leading to ground and the other to the activation imput.  What does this wire do?  And where do I wire it in? 

H1/6 WHITE/ Red (+) Activation Input

This input comes from the factory set 2 activation pulses.  This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive 12v pulses on the WHITE/ blue wire for the remote start to activate or deactivate.

NOTE: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1,2, or 3 pulses.

----------This shows the same thing as the one above; a picture of a momentary switch with on end leading to ground, and the other leading to the WHITE/ blue activation input.  ???????

H1/3 Yellow (+) ignition output to RF System

As an add-on to an after market security system: If connected, disconnect the ignition/accessory input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system.  Connect H1/3 Yellow ignition output to the ignition/accessory input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system.  The wire will prevent the host system from sensing that the ignitio is on during remote start operation. 

-------- I don't have an aftermarket alarm, and as far as I can tell I don't have a factory alarm, unless you consider VATS a factory alarm.  What do I do with this wire. 

Finally I found a list online that suggests my year car with VATS needs a resistor installed somewhere in the system to act as though there was a key installed during remote start application.  Can I get a radio shack resistor or does it require a special one, and how do I know what resistor value my key is.  Can/Will The dealer tell me?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Dan

All three of the wires you talk about do not need to be hooked up to anything.  The first two listed are activation inputs that you can use to activate the remote starter either with your factory keyless entry system, an aftermarket alarm (using one of the auxillary outputs, or by some other method, such as a timer module or automatic temperature sensor (will automatically start the car when the temperature drops below a certain level.)  The yellow wire is only necessary when you have an aftermarket alarm installed in the car.  Most aftermarket alarms have a wire that will sense when the ignition is powered up, and will set the alarm off.  When installing the remote starter on a car equipped with an aftermarket alarm, you would hook the wire from the alarm that senses the ignition being on to that yellow wire from the DEI unit.  This will prevent the alarm from triggering when the remote starter is activated, but udner normal conditions, when the car isn't remote started, will still provide protection from someone trying to start the car when the alarm is activated.

As far as the VATS bypass goes, you can pick up a resistor at Radio Shack that will work for you.  To measure the resistance, using a digital multimeter,set to ohms, place one lead on each side of the "chip" in the key shaft.  It is simply a resistor, and you should get a measurement on your meter.  Find a resistor that matches as closely as you can, and you're in business.  You can bypass the VATS system in two ways, one of which I wouldn't suggest, as it will permanently disable the VATS system.  The other way will only bypass during remote start.  If you do a google search for VATS bypass, you should be able to find the appropriate wiring diagrams on how to bypass the system correctly.  If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Guys,

Thanks for the help and quick responses.  It all makes sense... Hopefully I will have some time to finish the job today so I can post some results.  I have to hit up this forum more often!  Stay tuned........

Dan

Well,

The project seems to be going alright but I ran into a couple of minor issues....

First off, when testing the resistance of the chip in my key, it read 2.98ohms @ 20K on my DVOM.  Went to radio shack,... the guys was very helpful but I am not quite sure he gave me the right resistors.  He gave me two packs of resistors, one small one large,... i believe one was 1/2 watt, and other package was 1 watt.  Anyway, he told me they were 10K ohms and to use two in series.  Is this possible? 

Having a little trouble finding the tach wire.... my diagram says it is white,... I am not sure of the location of the wire, and if its where I think it is in the engine compartment,... its covered in grease.  That should be fun tomorrow.  Are there any other locations I can connect this wire to other than the Waste Spark Ignition Module itself?

There is a blue wire that puts out a 200ma when the remote start starts the car.  This wire is used for the rear defroster.  I have been going nuts trying to figure out what wire this thing goes to to trigger the rear defroster.  I went so far as to pull apart the heater controls to see what was leading to the defroster relay inside... no luck.  Does anyone have any idea what wire or where, or how I connect this up??

That seems to be it,.... hopefully I will be able to give it a run sometime tomorrow.... thanks in advance for the help guys,

Dan

Please view above post too.....

Is it possible/accurate to pull the tach wire from the cluster.  I haven't checked it with my DVOM yet to see if its AC Voltage, but if it is would that be a good source?

Dan

It appears I hit a bump in the road this morning.  Got everything all pluged in.  Left the key in the ignition.  The unit powers up, I hear a click like its getting ready to start, and then.... nothing. Nothing happens. 

1.  When testing the system will leaving the key in the ignition do anything (allow it to start) or MUST I have the resistors in place.

2.  The tach wire to the tachometer reads 2.5-6V AC depending on how hard I punch the throttle... can I use this wire (I am currently using it, can I continue to use it) for my tach wire?

3.  What else could be causing the symptoms I am experiencing?

DG

I posted this in my last topic, but I haven't gotten any responses.  Hopefully it my question has just been overlooked and its not that nobody has the answer.  (that would be my luck)  It appears I hit a bump in the road this morning.  Got everything all pluged in.  Finally got the correct resistors, which measured out at 1/2Watt, 2.96Ohms, as opposed to the key which is measured at 2.98ohms.  Upon pressing the lock button twice, the remote start unit powers up, I hear a click like its getting ready to start, and then.... nothing. Nothing happens. 

This is what I am wondering:

The car is a 1995 Chevy Monte Carlo Z34.  The tach wire to the tachometer reads 2.5-6V AC depending on how hard I punch the throttle... can I use this wire (I am currently using it, can I continue to use it) for my tach wire? Or is it shutting down my remote start?

Also, does anyone have a link to a VATS bypass (using resistors) setup, I want to make sure the way i set mine up is correct.  I did it right from the instructions, yet something just doesn't feel quite right.

Anyone got any other ideas....

DG