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intellistart ford mondeo/contour


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Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 15, 2008 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  
Hi,
I had to start a new thread as i somehow managed to post 3 pics next to eachother in my last and it makes it a hard to read anything without having to constantly scroll back and forth.
Tried contacting the asministrators to get the pics removed but couldnot get them.
Origional post: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~99926~PN~1
Hi guys,
First off let me appoligise for the long post. I'm trying to give as much details as possible.
I'm having some problems with installing an intellistart.
It’s installed on the back of a concept 100.
It just won’t work when I try to activate safe start (pressing headlight and boot release buttons together while engine is running) the indicators flash twice, I turn off the ignition and the engine stops running. If I push the * button while the engine is to active resume power feature again the engine cuts off.
If I try it in Automatic transmission mode. arm the car, press the * button the ignition turns on, the car starts and runs for 2 seconds then cuts off, it then attempts to start again with the same result.
I’m aware that this car has a transponder key so when I’m trying to remote start I’m leaving the key in the ignition while trying to remote start. I intend to glue a programmed transponder onto the RF receiver ring.
I have tried to do the mandatory RPM programming via the valet switch by entering my valet code then push and hold the * side for about 13 seconds until I get 3 chirps. I then push the blank side once, wait for a chirp then press the * side 5 times each time I press the star the alarm chirps. I then get 2 chirps and 2 flashes from the indicators to confirm RPM has been set. I then turn off the ignition and get 3 chirps which I guess is to confirm you have exited programming mode.
I have connected the intellistart to cliffnet wizard on a laptop. When I click on the starter icon and click RPM I get “no code” in the little box. Starting Threshold is displaying 0. Pulses/revs are set to 0 but I have tried changing this to different numbers with no luck.
On the Input Status & Output Control When I click Turn Ignition On the ignition turns on when I click start engine the engine does not start. If I click pulse starter the starter pulses once and 90% of the time it’s enough to start the car. When I click Start Engine while in automatic transmission I think it starts and the engine will run for about 2 seconds the shut down again.
So it looks like it could be a problem with programming the RPM although it seems to be programming ok via the valet switch.
I am using Cliffnet Wizard Pro 2.1 but I have just got a hold of version 2.2 but have yet to try that.
Wire Connections:
1 Orange Accessory output – Connected this to the wire that is live when the key is live when the key is turned 1 click
2 Red Battery positive (30-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to the battery
3 ORANGE / Gray Ignition 2 output – Not Connected
4 GREEN/ Blue Ignition 1 output – Connected to the wire that is live when the key is turned 2 clicks
6 Gray/Orange Heater 2 output – Not Connected
7 WHITE/ Blue Starter output – Connected to the wire that is live during cranking
8 Red Battery positive (30-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to the battery
9 Gray Heater / Air Conditioner 1 output – Not connected
1 BLACK/ Green Ground for automatic transmission mode – Not connected (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
2 Violet/White Pulse out (negative) after remote start for door lock upon remote start – Not Connected
3 WHITE/ Black Hood input (-) – Connected to hood switch (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
4 WHITE/ Violet Pulse out (negative) before remote start for factory disarm prior to remote start – Not connected
5 Red Battery positive (5-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to battery
6 Blue/Orange Out (negative) when remotely started for additional ignition relay or factory disarm – Not connected
7 Black Ground – Connected directly to battery
8 Blue/Black Negative switching “Wait to Start” bulb for diesel engine installations – Not connected
9 Blue / YELLOW Positive switching “Wait to Start” bulb for diesel engine installations – Not connected
10 Blue/Green Automatic transmission, connect to reverse light / manual, connect to emergency brake light – Connected to ignition live until I get the system working correctly then I will connect to a relay that will supply a live when the hand brake is up (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
11 Blue/White Brake light input (+) - Connected to the wire that is live when brake pedal is pressed
12 BLACK/ Gray RPM Input – Connected to the wire behind the instrument cluster that supplies the signal for the tach. I have also tried connecting this to the injector wire. I know I’m getting a signal through this wire to the intellistart as I have connected an aftermarket tach to it and get an accurate readout when connected to the tach signal but when I try the injector wire I get a low reading on the aftermarket tach but I’m guessing this is because the signal is different.
Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 15, 2008 at 3:06 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for your advice Howie II but it didn’t make any difference.
I tried changing the crank time to 0.8 and also at max.
I've tried programming the tach signal manually; I get all the correct chirps and flashes but doesn’t make any difference.
I have skipped your advice about the transponder for now until I get the system to start my car properly. When I’m testing the system I am leaving the key in the ignition so the car can see the transponder.
I have updated to a Concept 300 Since the last post as I managed to corrupt 2 concept 100 brains with the cliffnet wizard software.
Here's what’s happening.
With the Blue/Green wire DISCONNECTED, Start the car press * to activate Retain Accessory Supply the indicators flash twice, I hear relays clicking and if I turn the car off immediately the ignition will turn on and the car will start for 3 seconds then cut off. When I press the boot release and the headlight buttons while the car is running I don’t get any flashes but hear relays clicking, if I press the 2 buttons aging I get 1 flash and again if I turn the car off immediately the car will remain running for 3 second before switching off.
With the Blue/Green wire connected to a 12v supply (I intend to invert the polarity with a relay connected to the handbrake switch when I get it working properly) and I press * with the engine running I get 6 Flashes from the indicators? Does not restart.
If I connect the Black Green Wire to temporary activate auto transmission mode and press the * the ignition turns on and the engine starts for 3 seconds then shuts down.
What am I doing wrong? I have checked all my connections so many times and I know they are all ok. There all soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing.
I can rule out an intellistart brain fault as I have tried in my friend’s intellistart
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 10:04 AM / IP Logged  
The blue /green needs to see an earth (ground) to allow it to work, make sure your blue/white is not showing a voltage, do not use Wiz to set tach, do it manually, if you can don't use Wiz at all! Set the tach last!   will have no reading and go to earth (ground) when opened.Do the obvious, make sure hood pin switch is working properly, i.e. with hood closed it
Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 12:31 PM / IP Logged  

Oh right,

The installation guide isn't clear on whether it should be a live or neutral.

Right just been out to the car and tried connecting the Blue/Green to a neutral and it's still not playing ball.

When i try the retained accessory power by pressing the * the indicators flash twice an the car remains started for 3 seconds.

When i press the headlight and boot pop buttons together i hear the relays clicking in the intellistart but no flash from the indicators and the car doesn't remain started.

I tried programming the tach manually twice and again get all the corrrect chirps and flashes so in thorey it's programmed.

Away to check for voltage on the Blue/White just now. I assume a digital multimeter will be ok for this (it's not a pulse im looking for?) Am i looking for no voltage at all?

The laptop has been no where near the alarm in days and have no need to connect it anymore so will leave in it the cupboard, lol.

Hood is showing as closed when i cehck for continuity between a neutral and the WHITE/ Black wire at the intellistart connector (open circuit)

Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged  

Ok,

Just check for voltage and i getting between 6 and 8 volts on the BLACK/ Grey wire. Is that bad? I have the BLACK/ Grey wire connected to the tach feed behing the instrument cluster.

On a slightly different note Is the G5 5 button remotes compatable with the Concept 300?

Thanks again Howie II. much appreciated!

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged  

Listen,  by earth you're thinking AC and you called it neutral, I meant as in GROUND, - , 0 volts, capiche? Your 6-8 volts (AC) is spot on, yes, I'm running a 300 with the G5 5 button remote. NOT the one from the 650 MkII The blue/ green sees earth, such as the handbrake wire when pulled up or the reverse light cable when  an auto is not put into reverse to enable the remote start. The hood (Bonnett) wire should be connected to the black probe of your DMM and the red probe connected to a live feed, set to 20v DC, with hood shut nothing, with hood open you should see 12.5 volts. DON'T USE THE FACTORY SWITCH, IT'S WIRED OPEN CIRCUIT WHEN YOU OPEN THE HOOD, THUS WITH THE HOOD SHUT THE REMOTE START WILL THINK THE HOOD IS OPEN! The  blue/green does not need a relay.

To run side lights or indicators whilst enabling remote start, take blue orange to a relay, 85, Fused 20amps to 86 and 87, 30 to side or headlights (anothe relay in parallel if both) or 30 out to 2 x 1n 540XX diodes bar out when running indicators (connect to browns on 300) Cat I alarms will not normally enable this function.

KarTuneMan 
Platinum - Posts: 7,056
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged  

Howie..... you need some more stars.

You have so much info to offer! Everytime I read one of your posts....I am amazed.intellistart ford mondeo/contour -- posted image.

Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 12:16 PM / IP Logged  

Forgive me for my terminology. capiche? intellistart ford mondeo/contour -- posted image.

I have disconnected the bonnet wire completely so it's not getting any feed at all. It wasn't connected to the factory switch it was connected to a separate bonnet switch

Still not having any luck. The engine just doesn't want to stay started, still dropping out after 3 seconds.

Could it be tach signal problem? Should i try connecting the tach wire directly to the ecu? or injector wire?

I'm not that worried about the indicators flashing while it's remote starting. I just thought it was supposed to, I'm sure i read in the intellistart user manual that the indicators should flash twice then the car would start but cant be sure as i do not have a copy of the manual to hand.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged  
I can't think of anything else, Cat I alarms (e.g. Concept 300) don't allow the indicators etc to function during R/S. The irony is that i've done at least 4, plus Cougars, plus Foci and never had any problems. Last, shove your meter on blue /green, it should read 12v+ on R/S ignition fire and on blue /white, which should show the same voltage on cranking.
Mm3stb 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 31, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged  

howie ll wrote:
The blue /green needs to see an earth (ground) to allow it to work, make sure your blue/white is not showing a voltage,

I'm sorry you have got me a bit confused, you said before that the blue/green needs to see ground but now you saying it should read +12v. If that is the case i need to use a relay to invert the polarity. Also if the blue/white See's 12v isn't it supposed to shut down the intellistart. I have this connected to the brake light switch cold side (hot when pedal is pressed)

Here's the guide im using http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/clifford/47230411_IntelliStart_4_Installation_Guide.pdf

Please excuse me if i am mistaken.

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