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valet 562, 2008 silverado


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catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 10, 2008 at 12:19 AM / IP Logged  
This is a Valet 562t install on a 2008 Silverado work truck (BASE model).  I have the PKUGMX2 bypass and we're upgrading to power locks with the keyless install.  With that background, I have a couple of quick questions...  All of them about the heavy guage relay satellite wiring harness wires.
What I'm fairly certain about:
On the "heavy gauge relay satellite wiring", after bringing in the two +12v inputs, I have the outputs as follows:
- The "start output to starter (starter side)" will go to the "start" input of the bypass.
- The "output to accessory circuit" will go to the yellow wire in the ignition harness (Provided the under-dash infosheet I've found is correct. This should turn on my climate controls, etc. if I'm not mistaken.)
That info should be right, so my QUESTIONS are:
- I shouldn't have any use for PIN 8= the "second ignition/acc circuit output" or PIN 7= the optional +12v high current input that is factory-jumpered within the plug... Correct?  I'm not hooking up anything special other than locks and starter.
- What do I do with both PIN 2= the "start input from ignition (key side)" wire, and PIN 6= the "output to ignition circuit" wire?  Since the bypass already sends wires to these, what do I hook the ones coming from the Valet up to?
Other than that, I think that everything else is just about covered... Until we have to program the bypass and brain/transmitters!!!
Thanks in advance, I appreciate all the help.
Chad
chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 10, 2008 at 3:26 AM / IP Logged  

The PKU-GM2X's red ignition wire is an input, not an output; you'll need to connect the ignition output from the 562T(the pink pin 6 to the relay pack) up to the car.

Pin 8(2nd ignition/acc.) and pin 7 you are correct - there's no need to connect them to anything.

Pin 2(start input from key) is really not useful on this vehicle. If you were doing a vehicle with a conventional ignition harness you would cut the starter wire in half, and hook the green to the key side and purple to the starter side of that cut wire.  Which brings me to the purple starter wire...

You're right that it will need to go to the bypass - however it may also need to go to the car.  Your wiring info may mention a (+) through 1300 ohm starter wire in the ignition harness.  I've read some sources that say connecting to this wire for remote start is not necessary, when the ignition wire has power and the accessory loses it the truck will crank. Other sources say you have to connect it.  I would say you'd want to connect it to avoid a possible trouble code.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 10, 2008 at 1:17 PM / IP Logged  

Well, that shows how much I payed attention to the bypass diagram!!!  Input it is.  I'll just tie the pink/white in between the key and the bypass on the line to the BCM.  However, I am a little confused by the 1300 ohm wire you were talking about.  Is there a diagram you could post or send me with this info?  I haven't heard ANYHTING about this.

Thanks again,

Chad

chriswallace187 
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Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 10, 2008 at 4:55 PM / IP Logged  

You can disregard what I said about the resistance starter wire thru 1300 ohms - it's just the pink/black resistance wire which the PKU-GM2X connects to. 

I was thinking of a Silverado I did with a 1701G bypass, which doesn't connect to that wire(it overrides the transponder part by data, but you have to run a resistor with (+) through 1300 ohms to the pink/black wire).

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 10, 2008 at 7:37 PM / IP Logged  

Rock on.  I was looking at it and thought about that wire, but you just confirmed it.  That about wraps it up!  So I guess I'll just tie off that key-side input on the satellite relay harness and tape it up since the bypass is taking care of that.  I'll get to the install on Presidents Day and hopefully all should be good.  Thanks for all the quick responses.  Its been about 10 years since I've done an alarm, and never a remote start...  So its good to have a hand since its all SLOWLY coming back.

Chad

catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 11, 2008 at 1:38 AM / IP Logged  

Okay...  So I know that I overthink everything, but I still wanted to bounce this off you because I'm still kinda new to this.  (And I'm an R-tard)

I guess I was a little reluctant to just tie off and tape that key-side pink wire (PIN 6) from the 562t.  Even though the bypass connects to the truck where this PIN 6 would usually connect, I was thinking about what the 562t would see from that circuit.  I guess my question is-- Although the bypass will know when the key is inserted (in order to disable the security features of the remote start), how will the 562t?  The bypass doesn't output that signal back to the 562t.

Using my noodle and a little common logic...

When the key is turned and the brake pedal is pressed (to put the car in gear), I'm guessing that the signal from the brake pedal still kills the remote starting process, including power from the 562t to the bypass.  And in turn, this cuts the transponder data sent from the bypass to the BCM.  All of this would normally shut off the remote start procedure and the car.  But since the transponder key is in the ignition (in the run position)-- the circuit is still made, transponder data is still present, and the car continues to run without power to the 562t relay harness.  (Long story short, turning the key doesn't send a signal to the 562t or the bypass to disengage the remote starting.  It's just there to complete the circuit for when you want to manually start the vehicle.)

I think I'm getting it now...

Even though I think I just answered my own question, any replies with an answer, some reassurance, or just "you're an idiot if you do it that way" would be great.

Thanks again Chris, you've been a BIG help.

chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 11, 2008 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged  

What it sounds like you're doing is confusing "key-side input" with "key sensing".  Also "ignition" with "start".

Ignition circuits need to be active the whole time the car is running.

Start circuits require activation only to crank the engine.

Key-side input would be used as follows:

Lets say I'm installing a 562T on a vehicle with a more conventional ignition harness, like my '07 Saturn VUE.
Its ignition harness wiring colors are - Orange (2 separate wires) - constant 12V+, Pink - ignition 12v+, Yellow - starter 12v+, Orange - Accessory 12v+, Brown - Accessory 12v+.

The red wires from the XCRS would go to the orange constant 12v, pink would go to pink ign. 12v, pink/white would go to orange acc. 12v, and orange would go to brown acc. 12v+(actually the last two are interchangeable).

Now that yellow wire - if I wanted to add a smidgen of theft-deterrance, or prevent my idiot family member from grinding the starter when they remote start the car, get in, and turn the key to crank, not thinking that the car's already running and doesn't need cranked - this is what I'd do.
I would cut the yellow wire in half, and connect the green wire from the XCRS to the key-side of the cut yellow wire, and the purple wire to the starter side of the cut yellow wire. The 562T will interrupt connection between the key side(green) and the starter side(purple) whenever it is locked with its remote or when it is remotely started.

That's "key-side starter input".  "Key sense" just lets the truck know that a key is in the ignition.  The 562T doesn't care if a key is in the ignition or not.

Don't mind your confusion - your truck is the source of it here because:

It doesn't have a conventional ignition switch - that pink/black "resistance wire" controls the key sensing, starter, and some ignition circuits that the pink ignition wire doesn't activate.

And as if that weren't enough, the "transponder" data is totally separate from the resistance wire! It goes through the antenna ring around the key cylinder and completely separate wires to the BCM.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 19, 2008 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged  

OK, I'm desperate.

I installed this thing yesterday, and the locks work fine and I can program it all day long. 

The remote start doesn't do squat.  To eliminate the possibility of bad equipment, we replaced the brain, sattelite relay harness, and wiring in between and got the same results.  Even the bypass, but I don't think that its an issue with the bypass, at least not yet.  Read on...

I press the yellow button twice and the 562t's LED doesn't blink, the accessory lights don't come on and the ignition doesn't do anythingIts like the thing doesn't even get the signal to attempt starting.  After confirming that the yellow button was linked to channel 5 for remote start, I becan troubleshooting.  I put a voltmeter at the purple, pink and orange wires coming from the sattelite relay pack, and they all read ZERO at all times-- even while pushing the yellow button.  Even though the two red wires have constant +12v coming straight from the battery, they never send it toward the bypass or ignition.  I wired the bypass exactly how the instructions said, and tied the accessory into the brown at the ignition.

I thought it could be the brake switch, because the wiring info I got at the BCM was wrong.  I had it wired into purple(and white maybe?) right at the pedal.  So I just cut it instead of having it wired it in at the brake. (No signal is better than some 'little' signal telling it NOT to start, right?)  Nothing.  I have the door lock relays, the brain and the neutral safety switch all grounded at the same place under the dash with a sharp washer and a self-tapping metal screw into a piece of frame.  If it was a grounding issue, nothing would have ground, and nothing should work.  (Notes-- I have left out the "switch" at the NSS wiring. I was told the actual switch wasn't necessary, just ground that wire directly.  Also, I have not connected the tach wire.  I programmed the 562t to voltage-sensing, and then after it didnt work again, to low voltage.  I've also had the tach jumper set to on and off. Don't think the tach matters unless its cranking though.)

WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WRONG?????   AGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!

Nothing is more frustrating than hooking something up with all of the documentation and having the most important part NOT WORK.  I checked the shutdown diagnostics and it didn't give me an error code.  I guess that means it never shut down, because it never tried to start.

If anyone can help, it would be great.  I'd even throw a couple bucks somebody's way if you're local to the St Louis, MO area and could stop by.  I can email a diagram of exactly what I have everything wired to if that would help.  Feel free to email me too, if you have ANY suggestions.  I'll even take phone calls if its easier.

Thanks,

Chad
ccates21@yahoo.com

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 19, 2008 at 1:49 PM / IP Logged  
The first thing I would do is disconnect your hood and brake shutdown inputs completely - obviously you've done that with the brake, but leave them both disconnected.
If it doesn't even flash the lights when you're pushing the button to remote start, yet the locks work fine, that says to me that it's either NOT seeing the neutral safety (-) input, or that it's seeing the brake or hoodpin shutdown input. Double check the neutral safety and disconnect the brake and hoodpin completely.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
catesc 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2008
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 19, 2008 at 2:48 PM / IP Logged  
so the negative safety switch wire left dangling with the brake wire...  it should just flash, or maybe crank but not start then, correct?  I'll try 'em all.  thanks.  i'll keep you posted!
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