98 cavalier z24, remote starter

After wasting my entire day installing a directed remote starter on my 98 cavalier Z24, I've pretty much gotten nowhere. I started out removing the steering column shroud and installing the bypass for passlock I. I set the correct resistance and attempted to start the car. It started up immediately and ran without a problem. I know the resistance is correct, so I began pulling the ignition harness out since it is near impossible to remove the lower dash in a cavalier. I begin splicing and soldering every connection to do the neatest job i possibly could. I have all of the ignition,acc,starter,12v, etc (heavy guage wires) connected. As the manual is very vague, i attempted to start the car without the other features. It will prime the fuel pump and crank, but only for 1-2 seconds and die. The theft light blinks and it re-trys. Is the tach wire required for it to start? I didn't figure I'd have to hook up the horn,lights,tach, etc until I had tested it first. What exactly am I missing out on here? Thanks in advance, Jarrod.

No tachometer if you have the unit set to tachless operation and it will sense the increase in voltage from alternator instead. The anti-theft module needs to be connected to the status wire or also known as ground while running to have it turn on when the remote starter is powering up vehicle.The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

Thats the thing, The manual tells absolutely nothing about setting it to tachless operation or voltage operation. The manual told me to connect a wire to the bypass module to activate it. I do remember seeing it say put the wire to ground. Im not sure if i've tired that, but it only said do that to test the module tiself. I appreciate the quick replies Ill go try to ground it.

The bypass will have normally if it is a DEI piece, a brown wire that will connect to the remote start blue or blue/white staus or second status wire. Either one will do the same. To get program starter to sense tachless you need to turn the key to run position then turn off. Then press the valet button and hold until vehicle horn chirps 2x (if horn has been connected) lights should flash 2x also, let go of valet switch. Press two times then one more and hold. Hit the unlock button on the transmitter to change to tachless and LED off will confirm. That is for a Viper 160xv. What model piece do you have?The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

it is a ready remote model 24926. The bypass is a design-tech universal bypass module. I tried grounding. I am stumped as to why I can start the car using the key when the resistance from the module is putting out the right amount., but when I remote start, it kills it almost instanly like it would if I had unplugged the bypass module as if the resistance is wrong... Apparently voltage monitoring is the default option, so there is no need to change it. Is the brake switch necessary for remote start for testing purposes? If the resistance is correct on the module, why is the theft light blinking?

How would I go about that? By tumbler, do you mean the ignition cylinder? I've connected the GREEN / WHITE wire to the R/S where it says "This wire is usally used to activate the bypass module"it's the BLACK/ white wire. I did however get the WHITE/ green and GREEN / WHITE wire mixed up, so maybe it's just an installers error. I'll check it out after work.

WHITE/ black is status output (ground while running) On these the factory setting is set to tachless. What model # is bypass?The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

Ok, i definately know that it is the immobilizer. I held the WHITE/ green to ground and the immobilizer itself wouldn't let it start. I will have to tear out the wiring and check my connections... Im pretty sure, but isnt the "bulb test" wire in the harness with the 2 red 12v wires?

passlock II doesn't require bulb check connection. Make sure to follow diagram for passlock II only.The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya