99 durango, crank but wont start

Battery      PINK/BLACK     (+)     OR RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      Ignition 1     DARK BLUE     (+)     IGNITION HARNESS      Ignition 2     BLACK/ ORANGE     (+)     IGNITION HARNESS (HEAT/A.C.)      Starter 1     YELLOW          (+)     IGNITION HARNESS      Anti-Theft Descript          NONE      Key Sense     LIGHT BLUE     (-)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      Neutral Safety     YELLOW          (-)     LOWER LEFT OF DASH 16 PIN CONN POS 3      Tachometer      BLACK/ GRAY     (AC)     COIL PASS FRT ENG OR PCM FRT WASH FLUID      Speed Sense     WHITE/ ORANGE     (AC)     PIN 27 AT ECM PASS. SIDE FRT. FENDER      Parking Lights     BLACK / YELLOW     (+)     18 PIN CONN POS 1 HEADLIGHT SWITCH      Brake Lights     WHITE/ TAN     (+)     AT BRAKE SWITCH      Reverse Lights     VIOLET/BLACK     (+)     DRIV SIDE OF TRANS      Horn          BLACK/ RED     (-)     STEERING COLUMN HARNESS Power Unlock     PINK/VIOLET     (REV)     POS 13 POS(+)IF KEYLESS: REV IF NOT KEYL     (REV) ON MODELS WITHOUT KEYLESS      Power Lock     ORANGE / VIOLET     (REV)     18 PIN CONN POS 4 MODULE RIGHT OF DASHThe wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

The only guess I can think of is either the wrong ignition wire, or the ignition and accessory wires are reversed. If it has a Home Depot key, then it shouldn't have a transponder. The head of the key isn't gray, is it? I'm trying to think of what I remember about those trucks. It should successfully remote start with only the blue ignition wire, and the yellow starter wire. The BLACK/ orange accessory wire is for the climate controls. There's another accessory wire (probably BLACK/ white, not listed on the above chart) that turns on the radio, power windows, and so forth. The radio-accessory wire is entirely unnecessary for remote start. And, even if you failed to power up the BLACK/ orange, the remote starter would still work, you just wouldn't have heat/AC. I would say either you've got the blue and the BLACK/ orange backwards, or for some other reason, the blue ignition wire isn't getting powered up properly. Put your tester on the car's blue wire, activate the remote start, and make sure it gets power not only when the remote starter turns on, but also during cranking. It couldn't hurt to temporarily reprogram your unit for voltage sensing, in case you have the wrong tach wire.

Chris Luano, "you Da man".  I had the blue ignition wire connected to the ACC. Went outside this morning checked the wiring, switched the 2 and voila enging started on first try. I am using the "non-common" wire from my fuel injector for the Tach wire. It reads the same on a multimeter as the coil but a lot closer, than the coil and the PCM. The engine does not re-crank after starting so I guess I am good with that tach wire.  I also read a couple posts that said it is ok to ground the neutral sense wire. My manual says to connect to the parking brake switch which is grounded when depressed but my GF never remembers to put the parking brake on (i also cannot find the yellow wire for the neutral safety but I will take another look). I read the engine should not be ble to start if not in neutral or park anyway.  khfinlay@gmail.com