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tahoe remote start and passlock 2


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jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 08, 2009 at 10:05 PM / IP Logged  

Okay, here goes.  I recently purchased a remote start system for my wife's 2002 Tahoe.  I decided to do this myself(yup, first problem).  Anyway, things have went okay but I also had to go back and get the bypass module.  I already had the remote system wired up.  I thought I had it all hooked up right; however, when I get to the end of it's instructions, I am supposed to start the vehicle with my key.  Only problem is when i switch the key to the 'start' position, nothing happens.  I have been over the wiring several times without any success.  The tech support has not been a lot of help and the directions for both are no help at all. 

Any ideas?

Is there something simple I am missing that most people forget?

jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 08, 2009 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged  

More information:

The remote start system is the Model 24926 from Ready Remote

The bypass is the Universal Alarm Bypass Module 20402/29402

Also, when I try to read the resistance to set the resistance for the bypass, it doesn't read a lot of the time on my meter.  I have had to start the process all over again a couple of times and have come up with 4.55k.  Does this sound right?  Also, on the bypass, it wants me to take gray/black and WHITE/ green to WHITE/ black(status output from car starter(or to constant negative ground output when remote starter is)) -- and that's all it says, where do I need to run these two wires?  I think that may be part of the problem.

My complete inexperience doesn't help either.

Thanks. 

dtk1 
Copper - Posts: 179
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: February 09, 2009 at 2:02 AM / IP Logged  
few questions ..... are you able to start the car with they key? if it doesn't start with the key make sure your yellow wire is getting 12 volts when you turn your key to crank position if it does have 12 volts and still wont crank make sure you have the passlock wire hook up properly I would recommend you putting back any wires that you cut and see if it starts. as for the pass lock wire these are the colors      yellow (resistor code), ORANGE / black (ground)as for the bypass the one you have sucks big time see if you could get a 555l and problem solve reason why i said this is the one you have you have to adjusted to the proper resistance 555l would be a pice of cake as all you would have to do is hook up the wires and program by just turning the car on for a few sec.
jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 09, 2009 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the help.  When you say yellow wire are you talking about the small yellow that I cut in two to put the bypass module on?

Any idea where I can find the 555I?  AutoZone, etc.?

I called Tech Support and the guy said I need to disconnect the bypass and leave the key in the ignition/run position for 20 minutes to reset the Passlock and then redo the measurement of the voltage.  The instructions had said to cut the yellow wire to read the resistance, can I leave it hooked up and start the vehicle each time and read the resistance.  I was having a hard time reading the resistance.  It seems like it doesn't register each time. 

Any additional help would be appreciated.

jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 09, 2009 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged  
Oh sorry.  To answer your question, no it won't start.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 09, 2009 at 7:09 PM / IP Logged  
Definitely start by putting the two halves of the yellow wire back together, and see if it'll start.
If it still won't start, well, tech support was a little bit wrong because it's 10 minutes..........but yes, turn the ignition on, and leave it on until the Security light in the dash stops flashing.
(If it's dark outside, hit the Dome Override button three times to turn off the autolamps, so the battery won't die.)
I also agree that those modules where you have to measure the resistance, totally suck.
You should be able to find the 555L online, maybe on eBay. If you find a 555LW, it's the same thing, just in a white box. The Audiovox AS-GM4 also works just as well.
jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 10, 2009 at 10:10 PM / IP Logged  

All right.  Here is the latest.  Looks like my battery has went down.  When I hook it up to the trickle charger, a relay in the vehicle starts chattering.  Any idea what this is.  I don't think the other day I was able to reset the Passlock by turning the key to the ingnition location.  Would it have reset with the battery drained.  I got the battery to read 5 volts.

I'm at a loss.  Probably going to purchase the 555L as suggested and try that. 

Thanks.

wiringfool 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 10, 2009 at 11:25 PM / IP Logged  
chattering relay tells me back feed voltage ,low batery can also cause chattering relay and or check the ground connection to the remote starter module
wiringfool eieioztztzt
jneel 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 08, 2009
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: February 13, 2009 at 9:26 PM / IP Logged  

Okay, between having no time to work on this and needing to get the Tahoe back up and running for the weekend, I have bailed on everything until I have more time.  I cut all the splices I had made and taped the wires, so, everything is hooked up the way it was before I started.

The battery appeared to have been drained, however, when I place it on a charger, some relay(?) under the driver dash tends to chatter, quits when I disconnect the charger.  Also quits when I have the charger hooked up but turn the key to ignition or accessory. 

Is everything okay?  Will the battery charge with the chattering going on?

I have one of the quick jumper packs and may try that, thing I am worried about is that the passlock wasn't able to reset and when I go to quick jump it, it won't register.

Thanks.

loneranger 
Copper - Posts: 572
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2008
Posted: February 13, 2009 at 9:40 PM / IP Logged  
Dis-connect the negative terminal from the battery and proceed with trickle charging. However, you will need find your unlock code first, if you have an anti-theft radio.
Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

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