viper 5901 in 2003 honda civic coupe

So i'm planning on installing a viper 5901 myself but would like to know if I have all the correct wiring down so far. I am unsure of what the dome light output is for. Is this the wire I need to hook up so that the dome light turns on/off when the car is armed/disarmed? Also, what bypass module would be best for my car? I am planning on getting the DEI 555I. If I get the XK05 bypass and use it in D2D mode, which wires would I not need to hook up on the R/S? Thanks for your help. ➢ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT – NOT USED H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT – WHITE [ignition harness or battery] H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT – RED [on siren] H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay – NOT USED H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND - GROUND H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – GREEN + GREEN/ RED [alarm plug] H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT – [unsure] H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT – NOT USED H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – BLUE [alarm plug] H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT – NOT USED ➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT – BLACK / YELLOW [ignition] H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 – WHITE [ignition] H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT – BLACK/ RED [ignition] H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) – BLACK/ WHITE [ignition] H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) – BLACK/ WHITE [ignition] H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT – WHITE [ignition] H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – NOT USED H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY - NOT USED H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT – WHITE [ignition] H3/10 NC (no connection) – NOT USED NC ➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector 1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - GROUND 2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE – BLUE [passenger side of battery; 2 pin plug] 3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE ¬ - WHITE/ BLACK [switch @ brake pedal] 4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT – hood pin 5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT – NOT USED ➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT - WHITE/ GREEN [gray plug above driver kick panel] 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT – WHITE/ BLUE [gray plug above driver kick panel]

Wiring looks good.

The PKH34 bypass module will give you the most bang for the buck.  It will go D2D with your Viper and save

you 3 wire connections between the modules.  It comes loaded with firmware unlike the XK05 which might needto be flashed with the correct firmware.

The dome light supervision connection might not be necessary.  Does the dome light come on when you unlock

the car with the factory remotes?  Then you won't need it.

The two door trigger wires going to the Viper H1/8 wire should be diode isolated with 1N4001 diodes.

Most wire guide lists show an ACC2 wire, WHITE/ Red at the ignition switch harness.  Verify this with a

DMM.  You can program the Viper to support this ( Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2 ).  Connect H3/7 to the WHITE/ Redwire.

Remember to set the Viper Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) for your H1/11 connection. 

There is a bit of Viper programming to do.  Auto/Manual Trans & Tach sensing come to mind.

Soldering is fun!

Dome light supervision is totally unnecessary with the following cars that I know of: All BMWs, All Hondas, All Toyotas, All Audi BMW. All of the above from about 1998, when you close the door, the dome light stays on for up to one minute but when you LOCK the doors it goes out immediately. Also unlocking the doors PRIOR to opening will turn on the dome light.

Also if you drop the instrument gauges (takes about 2 minutes) you can get to the rear of the door open and trunk open indicator lights. That will eliminate the alarm giving you a pre-warn which I guarantee you will get if you connect the green door trigger to the alarm plug (I think!) also whilst you're there you can connect your tach wire to the blue going to the tacho in the instrument panel, save you going out under the hood. If auto, don't ground the BLACK/ white, connect it to the reverse light feed, switch under gear selector, I THINK (can't remember) it's GREEN/ YELLOW. If manual transmission, connect that BLACK/ white to the parking brake switch, or the parking brake indicator light, again behind the instrument panel. Both of the above are MUCH safer than simply grounding the BLACK/ white. In fact if you're really good you could probably loose the 5901 ECU behind or to the side of that panel, makes the whole install MUCH easier, quicker and better and stealthed from a casual glance.

Yea the dome light automatically turns off and on with the stock FOB remote so I guess there is no need to hook up that wire. Also, how reliable is using D2D mode? There are a few stories of people who have been unsuccessful in using this mode and that W2W is a more fool proof way to hook up the immobilizer bypass module. howie: When you say that the alarm will give a pre-warn if the door trigger wire is connected to the green wire on the factory alarm plug, could this be the case only if a diode was not used for the door trigger wires?

If you look carefully, see if the dome shuts down immediately on looking or takes about 3 seconds. If that's the case, then it just might trigger the Viper, I've been caught out by a European Viper clone (made in the same factory) that kept telling me the door was open. The dash displays (doors and trunk) extinguish immediately. However so might the factory alarm, best tested with a 12volt test light, probe end to 12 volt constant and other end to the wire you picked, see if that light goes out immediately the doors are shut before locking the car. Just being more thorough based on experience with these cars. Also I think you might have more than one ignition and or accessory you will need to wire up the pink white and connect the RED / black or your orange accessory to RED / black won't work.

PKH34 in D2D mode should work OK.  There isn't too much going on, just GWR turning on the bypass.  No data going back and forth.  It's only 3 more wires to connect (+12v constant, Chassis ground and (-) Status Output / Ground When Running ) if you want to play it safe.  If you do go D2D, don't forget the jumpers on the side of the Viper.Soldering is fun!

Also, does anyone know what color wiring is for the rear defogger? All the vehicle wiring diagrams i've looked at don't seem to mention the rear defogger wiring color and location. It would be nice to be able to turn on the rear defogger using the remote.

That's what your DMM is for.

Use your DMM to find the wire that goes to 12v+ at your rear window when you turn the HRW on. Trace it back to the front then:- Cut it, use a timed aux set for 10 mins (or whatever the max is on the aux outputs). Use a 5 pin relay, bosch style. Aux to 85. 12V+ constant fused at 20amps to 86 and 87. Window side to 30. Switch side to 87a.