trunk actuator operated by alarm

Ok everyone I've been researching this a little bit, searching on here and using the net for this. I want to open my trunk with the alarm key pad, and possibly close it as well. . Here's what equipment I've got currently to install, it's in the garage. Zenesis ZN-502 alarm auto start. DEI 530T window modules (2) 1 for front windows and 1 for back windows DEI 529 window module - for sunroof Ok so, like I said, I've been researching this trying to figure it out because I need two auxilary channels to operate the actuator, one for up and one for down from what I can tell. So that would leave me with needing one more Aux button cause this alarm model only has 2. So I went to the thinking chair (the bathroom), because my head and my bladder was going to explode, and it hit me. I talked to a guy at Autoloc earlier today about a control module, and he said that the trunk latch, or lock or whatever you wanna call it that holds the trunk closed, now has to come out because the actuator is what holds the trunk shut. That frees up another channel. The TRUNK POP CHANNEL!! That's now the third Aux so to speak. So here's how I've worked it thus far, that I can understand anyway. There is going to be, regardless, a button inside the cabin, most likely in the glove box with the other buttons, that I can use to open and close the trunk (operate the actuator) from inside. The trunk pop is a (+) output, and the Aux 1 and 2 are both (-) outputs. Option 1 Trunk pop (+) = Trunk Open (actuator up) Aux 1 (-) = Window Modules/Sunroof Module Aux 2 (-) = Trunk Closed (actuator down) Option 2 Trunk Pop (+) = Trunk Open (actuator up) Aux 1 (-) = Window Modules Aux 2 (-) = Sunroof Module Button in trunk lid to close trunk (actuator down) along with the button inside the cabin. So those are my two options that I've come up with thus far. My other two questions that i need answered are these: 1) Since the trunk pop is a (+) output already, does it still need a relay since that's what's going to be used for opening the trunk? 2) Same basic question but for down, if I use Aux 1 or 2, because of them being a (-) output does it still need a relay to close it? 3) Is there a way around removing the latch in the trunk. Isn't there a DEI module that delays operation of whatever it's connected to? So if I had that on the actuator up side (+ I'm assuming)then in theory if I had that as well as the regular trunk latch on the "trunk pop" wire of the alarm, then the trunk would pop as normal, and the delay module then would delay the actuator a split second to come up. Is that accurate and can someone clarify the module that allows this? Is it the DEI528T maybe? I'm going to go ahead and order my actuators, i'm also doing one for an amprack drawer, and then I'm going to do some bench testing before I actually get it in the car. I look forward to every/anyone's help given. Thanks!

What is your car????? 1) Since the trunk pop is a (+) output already, does it still need a relay since that's what's going to be used for opening the trunk? If the current coming out of your alarm is enough, yes...if not, you'll need a relay 2) Same basic question but for down, if I use Aux 1 or 2, because of them being a (-) output does it still need a relay to close it? Yes but you'll need to use a relay to change the polarity.Sylvain Rochon

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2006 Honda Civic Ex Sedan So I need to do a test and see what the output is on the trunk pop from the alarm then right? Isn't the down on the actuator a (-) signal? If it is, why would i need to reverse polarity if the Aux output is a (-) signal. Sorry just trying to understand. Also, to add to this, does anyone know off the top of their head what the delay time is on the 528T? I'm trying to find it but not having any luck. Thanks!

I just found it, adjustable from 0 - 90 seconds.

What actuator will you use for the trunk? If the down function is negative, then you won't need a relay. I believe that the 528T varies between 0 to 90 seconds.Sylvain Rochon

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I was looking at this actuator and actually looking in the instructions it looks like it's a reverse polarity operation. So then I would need a relay on the aux (-) side right?

Here's a look at their instructions.

Now going back to my last question on leaving the trunk latch in. I just looked back in the vehicle wiring and for my car the trunk pop is (-) on the stock and as we've established it's (+) on the alarm. So I'd need to do a relay to reverse that polarity correct? Oh my, I think i need to sit down, let the smoke clear out of my ears from the brain fire I have, and come back to the table and draw it out. For the time being, thanks for everyone's help! Keep it coming I'm trying to understand all this as well as find my own answers. I appreciate all the help thus far!

The way that I see your actuator, connect the wire on one side will bring it up than when you reverse the wires, it will bring it down. You'll need to use 2 relays. The question is, will it go all the way up with one single pulse or it needs voltage all the way up and voltage all the way down. If yes, you'll need 2 528TSylvain Rochon

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I think that it does need voltage all the way up and all the way down. So I would need two of the 528T's and that would give it the voltage for a certain amount of time? I thought that the 528T delayed the voltage not prolonged it. Am I confused? Should I just make life easier on myself an not worry about the trunk latch and just use the actuator for the latching part like the guy said? I'm going to keep doing research I think and see if I can better understand this. IF I could understand how it all works I could understand or figure out how to get to where I want to be.