compustar ft 6200s in 2007 civic ex

I've installed remote starts before, but it was years ago, and they were cheaper, simpler units than the one i'm discussing today. i purchased this compustar remote starter: http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=74&productid=7156&sku=PKG2WFM4502S which is essentially this 2 way remote: http://www.staub.ca/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=2W4500FM-R paired with this controller: http://www.staub.ca/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=FT-6200S-CONT to install in a 2011 honda civic EX sedan with automatic transmission and no oem alarm. I'll be using BLADE-AL(DL)-HA for bypass and i bought a compustar OP500 option programmer as well. My install resources include the basic literature included with the kit: http://www.compustar.com/remotestart/StartItDetails.pdf and blade module: http://www.idatalink.com/documents/install-guides along with the CM6000 install manual from the install bay: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=839 and wiring diagrams from omega, audiovox, and bulldog: http://www.wiringinstructions.com/v2/wiresprint.asp?recnum=10160 http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=20118&MakeID=3&link=Bulldog In reading the install literature, everything seems pretty clear, however, a couple questions did arise: -the blade install manual (type 6 install, page 9) indicates that i am to connect pin 20 (BLACK/ white) wire on blade connector to the blue / YELLOW wire (pin 13) on the same connector?! correct? -the audiovox wiring literature references "parking lights", but it also has "low crr pk lights" -> what are these? -the audiovox and omega wiring literature reference "motor lock/unlock"? what is this? how is this different from door lock/unlock or window up/down? -i'm lost as as to what pin 14 (pink) on the 20 pin white cn2 connector actually does and/or which option i should use. The description of the two options is vague -> "this is most commonly used when adding a remote start to a factory keyless entry system"??     "is most commonly used to protect headlights or trailers"??? -seeing as the vehicle has auto transmission, then it is not necessary to connect pin 2 (ORANGE / black) or pin 4 (light blue) from 20 pin white cn2 connector in the 6200s, correct? is there any functionality for these pins with an auto transmission that i'm not seeing? -seeing as the vehicle has only a passive immobilizer and no oem alarm, i'm assuming i do not need to redundantly connect pin 13 (orange), pin 15 (ORANGE / white), or pin 20 (brown) of the 20 pin white cn2 connector, in addition to the blade bypass, to ensure correct operation of the honda transpoder system, correct? or again, is there some functionality i'm missing? thanks in advance for your time, cheers, coho

Yes, connect the wires on the Blade plug exactly as shown.  Here is a link to the logic behind the connection you mentioned  :  http://12voltdata.com/viewtopic.php?f=220&t=2886

Use the low current (-) Parking Lights. It's easier to find and safer to use.  Connect to FT6200S CN2 Pin3.

The (+) Parking Lights are usually high current ( 3 - 8 Amps ) and with your Civic, there are two Red wiresat the top of the fuse box.  They kinda test the same but choose the wrong one and you will blow the prettyblue instrument panel background lights...

The motor lock/unlock wire is the wire that actuates the door lock solenoid.  You will control the door locks via the Blade connections to the MICU.

For your basic remote start / keyless install CN2 Pin 14 is not needed.   ( It could be programmed and used to remote start the car via the Factory FOB's. )

 For automatic transmission vehicles, CN2 Pin 2 and 4 are not necessary.  The FT6200S varies from the FT6000(alarm) controller and Pin 20 is not needed.   If your Civic does not have a Factory Alarm system, CN2 Pins13 and 15 are not needed either.  ( In the US, Civic EX's have the Factory Alarm. )

Soldering is fun!

hi Kreg, thanks for your reply; much appreciated. taken from the post by "racing bidule" that you kindly referred me to -> "When the engine is started (once we received (+) start signal on the BLACK/ White wire) we return to doorlocks operations" -> i'm wondering how the module can receive anything on the BLACK/ white wire if it's connected to the blue / YELLOW doorlock wire? "Use the low current (-) Parking Lights. It's easier to find and safer to use." -> ahhh, good thing i asked. I would've never thought parking lights would be a high current circuit. That said, I find it weird that the omega wiring diagram just states "(+) parking lights", and the bulldog wiring info states both the (-) and (+) parking lights, but neither of them mention anything to do with circuit current??!! Why wouldn't they want to indicate the low current circuit only? Or for that matter, why isn't the 6000 install manual encouraging low current circuit selection for the parking light output? "You will control the door locks via the Blade connections to the MICU" -> does this also apply to trunk release seeing as it also uses keyless data codes? If so then am i correct in thinking that i won't even need to connect the 4 pin cn4 connector at all then? you would only need to install it for older vehicles without ecu's, no? "If your Civic does not have a Factory Alarm system," -> nope, just a factory "passive immobilizer", not an alarm.    

Most remote starters can handle a (+) Parking Light circuit up to 10 Amps.  I usually try to use the (-) Parking Light circuit and the remote starters (-) 200 mA or 250 mA output can handle it.  Less current draw thru the remote starter is good.

As noted on the iDatalink install guide, the trunk release function is only operational while the Ignition wire is 0V.  If you want the FT6200 to control the trunk release while the engine is running, wire directly.

Stephane ( Racing Biddle ) was referring to the ADS AL CA bypass module and its' wiring in his Tech Tip and not the Blade harness wiring.  Also WHITE/ Black vs BLACK/ White.

Soldering is fun!

hello again Kreg, thanks again for your input... "Less current draw thru the remote starter is good." -> i agree, that's why i mentioned my disbelief in my previous post concerning the lack of direction towards lower current circuit selection within the literature "the trunk release function is only operational while the Ignition wire is 0V. If you want the FT6200 to control the trunk release while the engine is running, wire directly." -> by this you mean using the pin 2 of the cn4 connector? also, seeing as the doorlocks can be controlled via the blade wiring...is there any incentive to wiring pins 3, 4, and 5 of the cn4 connector then?

PM sent, check your mail box. Soldering is fun!