2001 Impala, Viper 5501 Remote Start

Hi all, New to this forum but would like to get some help on installing a Viper 5501 Keyless Entry/Remote Start system. Here's where I'm running into a little trouble. My 2001 Chevy Impala LS has had a remote start system installed aftermarket for the last 6 years. The thing is, it uses the factory remote, which lacks the remote distance that is pretty much necessary for the remote start to be practical. To activate the remote start; on the keyless entry remote I press "Lock-Lock-Lock" within 7 seconds, and it will remote start the car, Press lock 3 times again, and the car will shut down. I plan on purchasing the 5501 pretty soon and will be installing it myself. The aftermarket alarm doesn't have a model or brand name, nothing on it, I also have no idea how it's wired in, but it's hooked up to another box that says Directed Electronics 457G on the box. When I googled, I found out that it's pretty much just the passlock bypass module? Does that sound right? Will I have to get the XpressKit from Viper as well? Or will the module I have now work with the new Remote Start / Keyless Entry? I can take pictures of what I have installed already if necessary. Thanks for the help in advance!! Much appreciated!

You can re-use the DEI 457G module.  Here is a link to the install guide  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=609

It should be just a matter of switching the wires from the old R/S to the Viper, plus adding some additionalconnections.  The connections to the car will not be changed, nor will it have to be re-programmed.

Here is a link to the DEI wire guides.  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp  Look up your Impala for the wire locations

and colors.  The current R/S system should be connected to most of them.

Here is a link to the Viper 5501 Install guide.  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=967  Read, review

& study.....  Practice soldering, too. 

Soldering is fun!

Awesome man, just what I wanted to hear!! I'm SUPER talented with soldering. I'm only 16, but I have TONS of experience with soldering. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in my Instrument Cluster, HVAC Controls, along with the rest of the interior bulbs, and soldered LEDs and Resistors into the circuit boards of them all, without destroying them! I took an electronics class in my junior year where we practiced soldering wires and circuit boards as well. I will read those articles over and over again. Thank you!!!!

Quick question, Trying to pair the wires together before I even start it so I know what I'm doing before I go into it. Do I connect the Viper Remote Start ONLY to the DEI 457G Module? I connect the wires to the 10pin connector coming from the module right? What wires do I connect to my car harness, if any at all?

The DEI 457G will handle the Lock, Unlock, Trunk Release and Passlock2 immobilizer.  You will connect the Vipers

Lock, Unlock, Trunk Release and (-) Status Output to the 457G.  You can also connect the 457G's Door Status Outputto the Vipers (-) Door Status Input for alarm purposes.  If your Impala has the Factory Alarm system, notice thatthe 457G will control that with the Lock and Unlock input signals.

Many Viper wires will still be connected directly to the vehicle.  Just like your current R/S system, all the main

ignition wires to the H3 connector.  All H3 wires except H3/7 will be connected.  Your car has two ignitions, two accessory wires and one starter wire.  You might have one or two external relays used in the current system.  The Viper can directly handle IGN1, IGN2 ( flex relay ), ACC1, and Starter1.  You will need one extra relay for ACC2. 

Other Viper wires to be connected are :  +12 Constant, Chassis Ground, Parking Lights, Horn Output ( optional ),

Neutral Safety, Tach, Brake and Hood Pin.

Soldering is fun!

This is really starting to get confusing haha. What wires do the Door lock harness (3-pin connector) and the Remote start auxilary output (5-pin connector) go to? I can't seem to figure it out. Here is how I have the connections to go as of right now. From the 457G Module Black - Already Grounded Red - Already has +12V Gray/Black - ? RED / White - H1/1 BROWN / White - ? Light Green - H2/2 Blue - H2/1 Violet - Remote Aux. Output (5-pin) Blue wire Blue/white - ? Green - H1/8 Are those correct? What other connections need to be made? From Viper Module H1 Connector H1/3 - Black wire (Steering Column) H1/8 - Blue wire (Gray 16-pin plug @ BCM) H3 Connector H3/1 - Ignition (Pink (+) @ ign. harness) H3/2 - ? H3/3 - Accessory (Orange (+) @ ign. harness) H3/4 - Starter (Yellow (+) @ ign. harness) H3/5 - ? H3/6 - ? H3/8 - ? Remote Start Input (5-pin) Pin #1 Neutral Safety Switch - ? Pin #2 Tachometer - White (ac) Ignition Coil (how??? is this necessary?) Pin #3 Brake Wire - White (+) @Brake Switch Pin #4 Hood Pin - is this necessary? Pin #5 2ND Status/Rear Defogger Output - where does this go? I really need help....I appreciate your help thus far.

From the 457G Module

Black -                 Already Grounded Red -                   Already has +12V Gray/Black -        Not UsedRED / White -        H1/1   Trunk ReleaseBROWN / White -     Not UsedLight Green -      Viper Door Lock Harness Green - LockBlue -                   Viper Door Lock Harness Blue - UnlockViolet -                 Already connected to OBD2 Diagnostic connector Pin 2 Violet wireBlue/white -        Viper Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin,  Pin 5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUTGreen -                H1/8 (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT

From Viper Module

H1 Connector H1/2 -  +12V ConstantH1/3 -  Black wire (Steering Column) HornH1/5 -  Chassis GroundH1/8 -  Green wire from 457G H1/11 - Parking Lights  BROWN / white  (+)  passenger side junction block above kick panel         ** Set Viper internal Parking Light Fuse/Jumper to +

H3 Connector

H3/1 - Ignition (Pink (+) @ ign. harness)

H3/2 - +12 constant Red @ ign. harnessH3/3 - Accessory (Orange (+) @ ign. harness) H3/4 - Starter (Yellow (+) @ ign. harness) H3/5 - +12 constant Red @ ign. harnessH3/6 - IGN2  Green @ ign. harness H3/8 - +12 constant Red @ ign. harness

Remote Start Input (5-pin)

Pin #1 Neutral Safety Switch - Ground if auto transmission ( or Parking Brake ) Pin #2 Tachometer - White (ac) Ignition Coil - Most reliable method for R/S  Pin #3 Brake Wire - White (+) @ Brake Switch Pin #4 Hood Pin - mandatory - install hood pin supplied with R/S kit ( or reuse current pin ) Pin #5 2ND Status/Rear Defogger Output - not used

Extra Relay for ACC2 :

Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant thru 20A fuseRelay Pin 85 to Viper Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin, Pin 2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUTRelay Pin 30 to ACC2 Brown @ ign. harnessRelay Pin 87A not used - insulate

Things to watch for :

Is the cars' Yellow Starter wire cut?Does the current R/S have a Hood Pin?  Can it be re-used?Does the current R/S have any external relays?   Can the ACC2 relay/circuit be re-used?Are the current wires well run and soldered?

As always, be sure to check and verify all wires with a Digital Multi Meter.  The vehicle wire guides are only guides...

Soldering is fun!

You are a life saver. Should the tach wire from the ignition coil already be at the remote start module? It does not have a hood pin currently. I'm not sure if it has any external relays, as far as I can see there are none. I do not know how he hooked it up, but the a/c works when it's remote started, along with EVERYTHING else. It act's like the key is in and running, but it's not. I'm not sure if the yellow starter wire is cut, I'll have to take a deeper look into it, but it's still connected at the ignition switch; and get's power when turned to CRANK, so is that a sign of something?

It is possible the current R/S's Tach Input is already connected to the coil.

A hood pin is an important safety feature.  It prevents a remote start while the hood is open ( engine repair, etc ).  Try a remote start with the hood open.

Usually ACC1 runs the heat & A/C and ACC2 does the less essential things like radio, etc.

A cut Starter wire is for "Starter Kill" or "Anti-Grind".  It's something to be aware of when removing a R/S system.  Being that your current R/S system is an "add on" with no FOB's or security it might not be present.  Try a remote start and while the engine is running, without pressing the brake pedal, insert the key and rotate to "Start".  Does the starter engage and grind?

If you can get a Make / Model number from the current R/S unit, you could locate an install guide and know exactly what each wire is and where it should be connected.  That would make things easier during the change over.

Soldering is fun!

I know it does not have a hood pin for a fact, we have the hood off being repainted and I can still remote start the car. Regarding the ACC1 & ACC2, they both must be hooked up somehow because everything works, radio, ac, the things that do not work are the blinkers, windshield wipers, basically anything on the multi-function switch. I do not know if it has a cut starter wire because regardless if the car is remote started or not, if you start the car with the key, once the car is started if you turn the key it will NOT reengage the starter, I guess because everything is pretty much PCM Controlled. When it's remote started and you get in the car, you can either turn it to "ON" and press the brake and be on your way, or turn it to "Start" and press brake and be on your way the same thing...the starter will not reengage once the motor is running - remote started or not. I have the FCC ID and some other ID of the R/S Unit, I don't know if that will help at all if you want it, here it is. FCCID: H50R39 IC: 1640B-R01