viper 5301, idatalink ads dl bandwidth

Ladies and Gentlemen; I have been lurking on the forums for a while, and now finally have a reason to post after not being able to find the information I need. This is in regards to a Viper 5301, iDatalink ADS-DL GM1, and a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500HD with Duramax diesel. I had an Xpresskit DLPKGM installed with the remote start prior to the iDatalink. The DLPKGM was causing the airbag light, security light, and Bose auto-mute on the radio to randomly trigger. In addition it would set DTCs relating to losing communications with the transmission control module. After removing the OBD2 wire from the Xpresskit to the truck, just behind the port under the dash, all DTCs would no longer set, nor would the truck have any random lights flashing or random auto-muting of the Bost. I thus replaced the Xpresskit (just yesterday) with the iDatalink ADS-DL only to experience a similar issue. After reading here, it seems part of the problem was due to using the wait-to-start wire on the diesel's glow plugs. I removed the wire and changed over to a set 15 second delay. This helped with the random light issue, however the DTC continues to be set for losing transmission control module communication when the remote start is activated. Futher, the truck has a Edge Insight CTS, which is a 4.3" LCD display of electronic gauges (compatible with any 96 and newer vehicle that has OBD2) which can also read/clear trouble codes along with a whole host of other functions. The Edge plugs into the OBD2 port via the entire OBD2 connector. The Edge, with the iDatalink tapped into the OBD2 wire, is very slow to respond, and sometimes won't even boot up, stating it can not communicate with the truck. When it does boot up, the information only updates once every 7-10 seconds, and is not reliable. When the iDatalink is disconnected from the OBD2 wire, all returns to normal, no DTCs are set, and the Edge works properly. So, it is my conclusion (possibly in error) that the iDatalink or Viper are using excessive bandwidth across the OBD2 connection. Does anyone have any solutions to make the iDatalink and Viper play nice with the factory computer? Remember, even without the Edge, it is still setting the DTC of losing transmission communication. It did this with both the Xpresskit and iDatalink. I thank you in advance for any information and potential solution to this issue. Regards, DWB

is the 2nd ignition (white wire) powered up and if so is it powered as an ign( hot thru crank) or as an acc( drops during crank) this wire will throw trans codes if not powered up or powered up as an acc it has to stay hot thru crank

jim hunter wrote: is the 2nd ignition (white wire) powered up and if so is it powered as an ign( hot thru crank) or as an acc( drops during crank) this wire will throw trans codes if not powered up or powered up as an acc it has to stay hot thru crank

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I checked the white wire and it's connected to the H3/2 pin, which is a RED / White Fused 30A Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87 wire on the Viper.

If it will help, here's a copy of my wiring diagram when I had it hooked up to the DLPKHM. The iDatalink is connected W2W and has a few different pin outs, including the door locks, and I'm not using the Wait To Start wire anymore. Primary Harness (H1) 12-Pin Connector

H1/1 RED / White Trunk Release N/C

H1/2 Red+ 12V -- 12V+

H1/3 Brown Horn Output -- Yellow/Black - Ignition Harness

H1/4 WHITE/ Brown Light Flash Isolation -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H1/5 Black Ground -- Chassis Ground

H1/6 VioleT Positive Door Trigger -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H1/7 Blue Neg Factory Horn Input -- N/C

H1/8 Green Neg Door Trigger -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H1/9 BLACK/ White Neg 200mA Dome Light Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H1/10 WHITE/ Blue Neg Remote Start/Turbo Timer -- N/C

H1/11 White Neg Trigger Park Lights -- Grey/Black - Body Control Module

H1/12 Orange Neg 500mA Ground when Armed Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM Auxiliary Harness (H2) 7-Pin Connector

H2/1 Light GREEN/ Blk 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H2/2 Light GREEN/ Wht 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H2/3 WHITE/ Violet 200mA Aux 1 Output -- N/C

H2/4 Violet/Black 200mA Aux 2 Output -- N/C

H2/5 WHITE/ Black 200mA Aux 3 Output -- N/C

H2/6 Light Blue 200mA 2nd Unlock Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H2/7 Gray/Black Diesel Wait to Start Input -- Dark Blue - Instrument Cluster Heavy Gauge Remote Start (H3) 8-Pin Connector

H3/1 Pink Ignition 1 Input/Output -- Pink - Ignition Harness

H3/2 RED / White Fused 30A Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87 -- White - Ignition Harness

H3/3 Orange Accessory Output -- Orange - Ignition Harness

H3/4 Violet Starter Output -- Yellow - Ignition Harness

H3/5 Red Fused 30A Ignition 1 Input -- Red on H1/2

H3/6 Pink/White Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output 30 -- White - Ignition Harness

H3/7 Pink/Black Relay Input 87A key side (if reqd) of Flex Relay -- N/C

H3/8 RED / Black Fused 30A Accessory/Starter Input -- Red on H1/2 Remote Start Input 5-Pin Connector

1 BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Switch Input -- N/C

2 Violet/White Tachometer Input -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

3 Brown Brake Shutdown Input -- White - Brake Pedal Switch

4 Gray N.O. or N.C. Hood Pin Switch Input -- Black Wire - Installer

5 Blue/White 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM Remote Start Output 5-Pin Connector

1 Pink/White 200mA Flex Relay Control Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

2 Orange 200mA Accessory Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

3 Violet 200mA Starter Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

4 Pink 200mA Ignition 1 Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

5 Blue 200mA Status Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM Door Lock Harness 3-Pin

1 Blue (+) Lock (-) Unlock Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

2 Not used -- N/C

3 Green (-) Lock (+) Unlock Output -- N/C - Managed by DLPKGM

H3/2 should go the +12V constant, not the White IGN2 wire at the ignition switch.  H3/6 goes to the White IGN2 wire only.  Did you power the ACC2 Brown wire with and additional relay controlled by  the Viper Orange 200mA Accessory Output?

BLACK/ White Neutral Safety should go the chassis ground if automatic trans.

Is the ADS DL flashed with the ADS DL GM1 Ver4.5 firmware and set to "Standard Mode", two blinks, for W2W connections?

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: H3/2 should go the +12V constant, not the White IGN2 wire at the ignition switch. H3/6 goes to the White IGN2 wire only. Did you power the ACC2 Brown wire with and additional relay controlled by the Viper Orange 200mA Accessory Output? BLACK/ White Neutral Safety should go the chassis ground if automatic trans. Is the ADS DL flashed with the ADS DL GM1 Ver4.5 firmware and set to "Standard Mode", two blinks, for W2W connections?

I have no relay wired into the system. I could find no information stating one was required. The iDatalink box shows: P/N ADS-DL SW ADS-DL-GM1 4.5 HW ADS-DL (16) Guide 2613 Date 2-25-2011 T/C X7BD682FFA Yes, the ADS-DL is definitely in the W2W mode. Do you feel the issues you mentioned in the wiring would cause the excessive databus communications that are occurring?

No, probably not.   Never did a vehicle with an Edge instrument panel.  The White IGN2 will cause auto transmission problems.  Not sure how important ACC2 is on that truck.  Getting that ignition wiring straightened out might take care of the lights & DTC's.

The iDatalink module had the correct firmware loaded at the factory so as long as it was never changed along the way you should be OK.  Did you set the installation mode to "Standard" ( two blinks ) before programming it to the truck? 

I think a call to iDatalink Tech Support might be in order.  They are excellent and might have seen this issue before. 

Soldering is fun!

have never powered up the brown acc lead as that is for power window etc, never used and never had a problem but the RED / white is 12v in for the flex relay, you are taking power from the white wire not applying power to it( which it needs or ir will throw trans codes and in long run will cause trans damage)

Kreg357, I'll get the transmission wire issue resolved asap. In fact, I won't use the remote start until I do. I have been in communications with iDatalink since last week, getting their direct assistance on which module would be appropriate since they listed a GM, and GM1 module. Turns out the GM module is discontinued.   Yesterday I sent Robert Di Cesare a detailed e-mail describing the issues since the alarm was originally installed up to date. I did the same with Edge for their Insight product. I have been in contact with Edge prior, and they are another good company who care about their customers. As stated prior, yes, it's setup correctly in W2W mode (2 blinks). The firmware was installed by VIP Distributing here in St. Louis. I called them Thursday and told them what vehicle it was going in and they said they would pull a blank from the shop and flash it appropriately. I'm assuming they applied the label to the box. VIP is a huge installer here in St. Louis. I want to say their installation bay area is about 100' x 200' and full all the time. I'm confident in their ability to properly flash the module. Jim Hunter & Kreg357; Yeah, I didn't power the brown leads for that reason. I didn't see any reason to power accessories since the truck does not have the convenience closure feature that newer models do. So, I'll amend the following changes to the wiring: H3/2 - +12 Volt Constant H3/6 - White Ign wire BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Switch Wire - Ground (Auto Trans) Correct? Any other changes? Thanks to you both for your assistance.

I received a reply today from iDatalink regarding the excessive OBD2 bandwidth communications. Here's their tech departments answer and solution: Answer: "The EDGE product he’s installing in the vehicle communicates to the OBD2 using factory scan tool codes, The IDataLink module also uses factory scan tool codes to query the tach in the vehicle. The factory E.C.M. will not allow for two scan tool communications at the same time." Solution: "We can disable the tach function in our module but that means he will have to find an alternate tach source on his diesel engine (which might be a bit hard to do seeing it doesn’t have one.) but he might be able to program his remote starter system to go tachless." Not having a tach output isn't an issue, as I use the voltage sense of 13.5V to determine the engine is running. Can I get a confirmation on the wiring as proposed below? H3/2 - +12 Volt Constant H3/6 - White Ign wire BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Switch Wire - Ground (Auto Trans)