bypass module of choice installers

first off, merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone here at the12volt. I'm just curious as to what you installers stock for bypass modules? and i would like to share my experiences using the xpresskits DBALL I personally stock: iDataLink: ADS-AL-CA, ADS-DL, Blade-AL/TB Fortin: Key-Override-All, Honda-SL3, EVO-CAN/ALL/CHR the other day a Directed rep suggested I switch to the Xpresskits DBALL. I was at first hesitant... only because the xpresskits are not up to date as idatalink for platform/vehicle support. Also for the price of a DBALL compared to an EVO or ADS-AL-CA, it was significantly cheaper(almost half). I have always hardwired and will stick to it, but for the case of the half dozen viper units, these were done d2d to test ONLY. So i took half a dozen DBALL/5901 units to test with family and or family friends cars. I install compustar personally. With that with the XK-Loader usb cable to update. The first car I took on was a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralli-Art MT. Using a viper 5901 and the DBALL in D2D(i know d2d sucks, but just testing purposes) And voila, the car does not go into reservation mode. Programs fine but it only picks up door triggers/locks/trunk release. The start portion such as tach, Ebrake, Brake Shutdown dont seem to work. So F-it, I do my traditional w2w and still no go. In the end i ended up running brake shutdown, ebrake and tach seperately to the car and it works fine. Mind you I had this car for 2 days since its a friends car. second car (family friend): 2010 Acura MDX sport with 5901 D2D and it works as expected. All triggers, hatch, start/immobilizer, disarm/arm with oem remotes etc. Installed in about 70 mins call it luck but this is the only car that worked without problems. third car (friend): 2010 Lancer Evo-X 5901/DBALL in D2D minus the tach, brake and ebrake which is hardwired to car. Also works as expected and i learned after the first lancer fourth car (family friend): 2009 Honda Civic EX everything was D2D, but trunk doesn't pop so i just hardwired it. and what i don't like about this is when you start, the door unlocks and locks instantly. this prevents oem alarm from going off; whereas the idatalink ads-al-ca would just disarm via databus (CAN) and no doors would be unlocked. I verified to know it was infact the DBALL that unlocks,locks,start since when i tap the GWR to ground, it does that exact sequence (minus start) fifth car Nissan Altima 06 (family friend). Everything works good, but no door locks. DBALL receives the command (flashing green light) but no functionality on the car. In the end i run wires into the door for door locks. car is on its way. I did my aunts 06 altima last week with an EVO-CAN and compustar and everything worked through CAN as expected, and it was wired w2w. still have one left, so lets see what i get next. In conclusion, the Viper 5901 is a nice unit, but sorry to all the xpresskit lovers, the DBALL is a POS from my personal experiences. I've never had issues with idatalink and fortin. Sure these pieces cost more, but in the end i never had problems which is my greatest concern, probably for any installer as well. If they tweaked the unit and possibly perfected the programming, i would consider dropping the EVO series for a DBALL replacement. As always, share your experiences and happy holidays. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I share in your experience with the DBALL. It doesn't always perform the functions it lists for certin vehicles. The programming isn't alwlays exactly as described. D2D with DBALL and viper units stil isn't perfected. I normally stock DBALL and flcan. I choose flcan over DBALL 95 percent of the time. I have very limited experience with fortin but their install guides are well written. I have an Evo-all sitting here I've been itchin to use. I picked it up because it was the only bypass that would do Suzuki kizashi but that customer disappeared. Bottom line is in my experience with DBALL, I don't think it has the reliability the Idatalink/flash logic modules do have .Advanced

I have just been getting back into remote starts after several years out of the game also. I chose DEI bypasses at first just because they are easy to get and price So far i have had issues with the PKFM and the GMDLBP. they didnt program properly and the PKFM if it loses power at any point the vehicle will not start even with key until you unplug the PKFM. (very bad). I have used one DBALL on an 08 accord and it programmed and worked as said first try. I have two more DBALL's in stock but am planning on switching over to idatalink now that the place i buy all my bypasses from finally is stocking them and because of all the ongoing issues with DEI. i stock two DBALL's just in case one doesn't work. I really have no faith in DEI producst at this point. I have done two XK05's and they have programmed and worked first try also. I will be using another Xk05 in a week. I am thinking using DEI on the cars that only require bypass, just to save costs, and then idatalink when i need more then just bypass like door locks etc. that can be done through data.

Oh, will the original owner get off of his beach in Israel or Malibu and please buy back Clifford, use IMI or Rafael to make it. They of all people should be able to make an alarm and R/S work, I mean what's CAN compared to the electrics in a modern tank or F-16?

Idata first, Fortin second for me always w2w. I install DEI 99% of the time and their d2d has never worked reliably for me. Last season I tried the DBALL in three different vehicles (Toyota, Nissan and Chevy). Not a single one worked 100% as advertised. They worked partially but I wound up doing a partial analog, partial bypass install on each. To Howard...I second the Clifford/Avital come back request. Clifford was the best, back in the day. Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Idata has worked really good for me lately in d2d.  I've got an install coming up in a car with a DBALL, and I dread it...John Bauer

Pro Installz

Paducah, KY

I use nothing other than Idatalink blade AL that's all I stock. And if you order enough in my case 400-600 at a time there not really that expensive. I paid around 16,000$ for 400

how bout this, i counted our bypasses last week to check against what inventory showed. we had 100 FLCAN's (nearly identical to an ADS-AL-CA) and only 10 DBALL's. the few times i've messed with DBALL's it has been a less than desirable experience.

My post was rather tongue in cheek but my goodness, Clifford up to G4 was clunky but bulletproof. I'm still pulling 15 year old Eagle and Eagle ll from vehicles, nothing wrong, just can't get the remotes any more. Bullet proof simple programming fabulous build quality.

for the price difference, i now see why idatalink and fortin modules cost so much more.

still waiting for another vehicle to use the DBALL on.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert