Viper 5902 Draining Battery

So i installed a Viper 5902 unit on my 2008 Nissan Titan and it works great, minus a few things. 1. The brain doesn't seem to be outputting a + signal in the Parking Light output wire (H1/11 White). It was connected to the RED / BLUE wire of the Electric Brake Pre-Wire Harness. I also set the internal light flash fuse on the brain to flash with a + output. The parking lights never flash during arming, disarming or alarm activation. I have tested the wire and i cannot get any voltage from it. 2. The blue LED light on the antenna/valet unit is stuck solid. It is not in valet mode. I can turn valet mode on and off using my 2-way remote and there is no change in the light. The only way i can make the light go out is if i put the system IN valet mode using the 1 way remote pressing the f button twice and then the unlock button. Onece i take it OUT of valet mode doing the same procedure with the 1-way remote the light turns solid blue again. Its almost like its working in reverse. 3. The alarm seems to be draining my battery very fast. And i cannot figure out why. I have checked and triple checked all my connections, grounds, ignition wires and nothing looks out of place. The brain never gets hot. I can disconnect all the plugs from the alarm except the main remote start harness that goes to the ignition and it wont drain the battery. But the second i connect all the other plugs to the alarm and i arm the car, within a few hours the battery is dead. The battery is less than two months old so i don't think its bad. Besides that the car remote starts perfect and arms/disarms fine and the alarm goes off like it should should i open a door or bang on the side of the car. I'm beginning to think that something might be wrong with the brain. Thanks for taking the time to read through all this, im kind of stuck on this thing and could use some feedback on to what it could be.

1) Is there an internal fuse for the white wire or has a jumper worked loose or been displaced. 2) Can't help you here. 3) The 5901 won't draw enough juice to drain your battery, even armed it's rarely drawing more than 30 milliamps. Disconnect it and see if your battery still drains. Before the above, recharge the battery and use a meter to check the voltages at the ground and all the constant 12v+ inputs, should read 12.4 or above. 5902 is generally very reliable. Nots the 5901 and earlier 5902 models.

Where do you have the unit grounded and how is it grounded? Also try pulling all of the power fuses on the unit to help possibly reset it if it somehow got into some other mode besides valet.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I had opened up the unit to check for blown fuses but there were none present. Only about 4 relays which looked fine as far as i could tell. The wire itself seemed like it was not loose or anything. Last night i went ahead and re-did my ground connections. I originally had the brain, ads bypass, and the H2/18 BLACK/ white neutral safety switch wire all grounded together and crimped to a ring terminal and secured to the car in a spot i drilled and tapped. What i did different was ground the brain in its own separate ground, and the ads bypass and the H2/18 together but in their own ground spot separate from the brain. The Viper installation guide said its best to ground all your components together so that was to only reason i had them together in the first place. I also disconnected the H1/11 parking light output wire. I got up this morning and the truck fired right up with no signs of battery drainage. The stupid blue led valet light is still solid and bright as ever though lol. To me that is more annoying than anything else and need help figuring out why its like that! Thanks for your help guys.

As a point of procedure, NEVER drill and tap for a ground, self taps work loose! Use an existing factory bolt, usually 10mm spanner size, undo the bolt, scrape to bare metal and use one more M6 ring terminals under the bolt. I usually ground everything together for convenience without problems.

What I usually do if I have multiple items needing a ground is I'll take a larger gauge wire (usually 12 if I can) and connect all the grounds to that right at the brain. That way its only 1 wire I have to run down to the kickpanel and ground. And +1 to what Howie said, always use a factory bolt if possible. If you have to drill/tap make sure to use a star washer on either side of the ring terminal.. it will help to bit into the metal and the screw and keep it all tight.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Yellow ring terminals! No actually I heartily agree with Kenny about combining the grounding wires.

It just makes things much easier since you then only have one wire to run, and you don't have to worry about missing one and spending hours trying to find the problem. And it can be done during the prep so it saves some neck/back pain.. lolKenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I concur 100%, having just done some work, having a nice cup of tea and two muscle relaxants!!

I installed a star washer and its a pretty secure connection. But im going to have to keep an eye on it now that you guys mentioned that drill and taps can come loose. Any ideas on the Valet Blue LED staying on all the time? Is there any other reason the light stays on besides being in valet mode? Could a wrong wire connection cause it? The funny thing about it is that if i unplug the H1 harness from the brain which supplies it 12v the LED stays on. Its not until i disconnect the ground that it turns off? Could it be a bad antenna? I can program through it and use it for all its intended functions but the stinking LED just wont go away.