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viper 5902 in 1999 ford explorer


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nextelmike 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 29, 2012 at 10:17 PM / IP Logged  
I am installing a Viper 5902 in my 1999 Explorer XLT 4D and am thoroughly confused. I have installed systems before in the past but it has been years since. I have gotten several "wiring diagrams" from different placed on the web that have all varied which is kinda the reason I am confused. I have tried connecting everything to the best of my understanding but the only thing I can get the system to do is set off the "panic" and get the interior vehicle temp! So any help in the with this will be greatly appreciated!
NExtelmike
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 5:56 AM / IP Logged  

A few thoughts :

Your Explorer requires a transponder bypass for the remote start to work.  What

bypass module did you use / install?

Look up DEI Tech Tip 1076 for the proper door pin wiring for the Viper alarm.

It would be a great help if you listed each of the Viper harnesses and the actual

connections to the Explorer.

As always, the wiring guides and just that, only guides.  It is necessary to

locate and verify each wire with a Digital Multi Meter prior to making any
connections.

Soldering is fun!
nextelmike 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  
Hello kreg357,
I have used DEI's 555P Bypass Module I didnt really want to give up a key. This is how i have everything connected at the moment and it has me completely stumped. I know the Explorer has 2 stage unlocking but i dont really care about keeping that feature.
Remote Start Heavy Gauge Connector (10Pin)    
# Comments  Viper        Explorer
H3/1 (+) Inginition 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     Pink  Ignition Harness (Lt. GREEN/ Purple       
H3/2 Fused 30amp Ingnition 2 / Flex Relay input 87     RED / White      12 volt Constant
H3/3 (+) Accessory Output Orange        Ignition Harness (BLACK/ Lt green)
H3/4 (+) Starter Output (Car side of starter kill)  Violet  Cut RED / Lt Blue. Violet to Starter Side
H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key side of starter kill) Green Cut RED / Lt Blue. Green Key Side
H3/6 (+) Fused 30amp Ignition 1 Input (12V battery)        Red 12 volt Constant
H3/7 (+) 30/Flex Relay Output    Pink/White    Not Used    
H3/8 (+) Flex Relay Input 87A      Pink/Black    Not Used
H3/9 (+) Fused 30amp Accesory/Starter Input RED / Black    Drk. Blue/Lt. Green
H3/10 NO CONNECTION      NONE  NONE
       
Main Harness Connector (12 Pin)    
# CommentsViper      Explorer
H1/1 (-) 200 mA AUX/Trunk  RED / White   Not used
H1/2 (+) 12VDC        RED      Yellow 12V
H1/3 Siren Output Brown   Red wire from Siren
H1/4 Parking Light Issolation Wire      WHITE/ Brown  ?????
H1/5 Chassis Ground  Black    Grounded
H1/6 (+) Door Trigger Input   VioletBLACK/ Lt. Blue @ driver kick panel
H1/7 (-) Trunk Pin/ Instant Trigger        Blue       Not Used
H1/8 (-) Door Trigger  Green   Not Used
H1/9 (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision Output  BLACK/ White Connected to pin (85) of relay with 12V at pins 86 & 87 and Black and Lt. Blue from drivers kick panel @ pin 30
H1/10 Remote Start/ Turbo Timer Activation input  WHITE/ BLue  Not used
H1/11 Parking Light Output     WhiteWHITE/ BLack @ headlight Switch
Door Lock (3 Pin)     
# Comments Viper     Explorer
1 (-) 500mA Unlock Output        Blue Pink/Lt Green
2 Empty     
3 (-) 500mA Lock Output        Green    Pink / YELLOW
    
Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness (18 Pin)    
# Comments Viper        Explorer
H2/1 (-) 200mA OEM Factory Alarm Disarm Output        Lt. GREEN/ Black Drk GREEN/ Purple @ Drivers kick Panel
H2/2 (-) Aux 4 Output      ORANGE / Black Not used
H2/3 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm arm Output GREEN / WHITE Not Used
H2/4 (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output Violet/Black Not Used
H2/5 (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output WHITE/ Black   Not Used
H2/6 (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output WHITE/ Violet RED / White on 530T window Module
H2/7 (-) Diesel Wait to Start Grey/Black     Not Used
H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output   BROWN / Black        Yellow/Lt.Green @ Steering Harness
H2/9 Tach Input Violet/White  Tan / YELLOW @ pin 48 on PCM
H2/10 (-) 200mA Status Output  Dark BLueBlue on 555P Bypass Module
H2/11 (-) 200mA Flex Relay Control Output        Pink/White Not Used
H2/12 (-) 200mA Accessory Output        Orange Not Used
H2/13 (-) 200mA Starter Output  Purple Not Used
H2/14 (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output Pink     Not Used
H2/15 (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O)      Grey   Conn to Hood Pin
H2/16 (-) 200 mA 2nd status/ Rear Defogger      Blue/White??????
H2/17 (+) Brake Shutdown Input  Brown Green @ Brake Pedal
H2/18 (-) Neutral Safety Input BLACK/ White Grounded
NExtelmike
smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 12:58 PM / IP Logged  

H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9 all to 12 volt constant.  Yellow Wire according to Bulldog.

You might have a 2nd accessory BLACK/ Light Green, if so connect H3/7 to it.  H3/3 to Gray / YELLOW.

Test and verify all wires with a digital MiltiMeter

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 6:59 PM / IP Logged  

What Mr Smoke says and...

H1/4 is not used for your application.  Make sure the Vipers Parking Light

Fuse/Jumper is in the (+) position.

You could set the Viper to control your Rear Defroster using the H2/16 output

and some option programming.  Here is the info from Omega :
    Rear Defrost  Dark BLUE/ORANGE (-)     AT REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER SWITCH
Not sure if it's just a pulse or a latch.  Test to find out.

While the directions are a bit vague, here are the connections for your 555PW bypass :

1 Red        constant +12V + battery
2 Black        chassis ground
3 Blue (-)              Viper (-)200mA Status Output
4 Green      not used
5 Yellow/Black    immobilizer data Pin 3 Grey/Orange
6 Yellow   not used
7 Brown      immobilizer sync Pin 4 WHITE/ Green
8 Pink      ignition (car side) **cut Pin 2 (usually BLACK/ White or Blue)
9 Pink/White       ignition (key side) **cut Pin 2 (usually BLACK/ White or Blue)
10 Orange          not used

The PATS transponder connector is about 8 inches down the steering column from the

ignition switch.  Look for a  white 4 Pin connector with WHITE/ Green at Pin 4 and
Grey/Orange at Pin 3.

Soldering is fun!
nextelmike 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all the help and taking the time to respond.. Thank you Kreg357 for the Bypass configuration I pretty much had that one figured out it was pretty easy. I have tried the configuration according to what Smokeman1 stated and according to the bulldog website and that configration does not work, when the battery is reconnected the brain goes haywire and tries to start the truck and wont stop until the power is completely disconnected. I also thought i had the OEM alarm disarm wire found but apparently not and i cant seem to find it there are several Drk GREEN/ Purple wire and none of them show any power when unlock is pressed.. so i am still where i was yesterday...I mean i cant even get the locks to work the light to light or flash nothing only the Temp in the truck and Panic work..... i am soooo frustrated...
NExtelmike
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 8:13 PM / IP Logged  

That trying to remote start when power is first applied might be normal for a Viper.

Maybe a heavy-duty Viper installer can clarify this on a 5902.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1          GREEN/ Purple @ Main Ignition connector

H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A)        Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACC OUTPUT          Gray / YELLOW @ Main Ignition connector
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector   \   cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector   /   cut
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A)       Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY OUT         BLACK/ Green @ Main Ignition connector ***
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY 87A           Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A)      Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/10 NC (no connection)         Not Used

*** Set Viper Flex Relay to ACC2.  Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2

To locate the correct Disarm wire ( and the Lock & Unlock wires ), use this method:

DMM set to 20V DC, Red lead to +12V constant, Black lead to suspect wire.  When the
correct wire is pulsed, the DMM will go to +12V.  In the case of the Disarm wire, try
using the key in the door to unlock and watch the DMM for the +12V pulse.  Might have
to use the passenger door cylinder or the Factory Remote.  Try to find the harness
as it comes into the kick panel from the door.  Just be glad you don't have a GEM
module to deal with. 

Soldering is fun!
nextelmike 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
Okay.... soooo I have hooked H/3 harness as listed above and anytime the H3/9 is connected to constant 12V the starter engages and wont stop trying to start the truck, but none of the dash lights come on like the when you would have the key in the "on" or "run" position it just tries to start. Also now i can hear the door locks in the Brain "clicking" but nothing happens until the lock or unlock buttons are pressed on the door then the doors lock or unlock depending on the button pressed but it doesnt stop it just keeps going.. Thank you for the method to find the OEM alarm disarm wire i believe i have found it.. but still no parking light or lights flashing and i have also lost the communication to the remote all it says now is "out of range" and wont do anything. The remote displays a unshaded lock and every now and then will flash "valet" but i can't get the control button to respond to anything to (i guess) disable valet mode it just has a faint blue glow that is one steady...i know this isnt rocket science i have never had this much trouble before...viper 5902 in 1999 ford explorer -- posted image. Thank you again for taking the time to assist me i have posted in other forums and no one ever replies so thank you....
NExtelmike
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  

If it starts cranking right away, are you able to step on the brake to disengage the remote start action? Shouldn't start if the hood pin is installed and working properly.    Just asking not trying to be insulting, have you used a DMM to check and verify the wires at the ignition? 

Is the 5902 new or used?  Maybe a relay is stuck in the brain causing the cranking.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124311&KW=smokeman1

Link to some info on doing my sisters 2003 explorer

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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nextelmike 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 30, 2012 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged  
I have tried hitting the brake pedel after connecting H3/9 and it continues to crank the starter... no insult taken i have verified the Ignition wires.. the 5902 is brand new i was thinking the same thing about a relay being stuck in the brain but it only does it randomly meaning when it starts i unhooked H1/2 from 12V and waited a min or so and reconnected it and it had stopped but like 5 mins later out of no where it started again i had not touched anything as i was on the phone at the time..i will check out the link you provided... i have done couple of these in the past but its been a while but none have been this frustrating...
NExtelmike
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