2003 honda accord wont start

A installer at my shop installed a remote start with a idatalink DL module into this vehicle. They used a RED / black wire in the driver's kick panel at the fusebox that they thought was the (+) parking light wire. Obviously this wire was not for the parking light circuit. Now the vehicle will not start with any of the ignition keys and the (key) security light flashes when the vehicle is cranked. All the wiring was traced to see if any wire was cut or spliced into incorrectly several times. Im out of ideas and the scan tool wont connect to the PCM. Anyone ran into this situation before?I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Probably already checked, but any blown fuses?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I always use a RED / black positive parking light wire at the fuse box. it's right above the WHITE/ black brake wire. Not saying he used the right RED / black, I'm just saying that there is a parking light wire that is at the fusebox. The most common thing that I have heard is that you have to be very careful testing the trunk release wire in the kick panel. There are 3 or so YELLOW /GREEN wires there. One is the trunk release, another is the fuel pump and one is a data wire. I hear that you can blow out the MICU on that car if you are not careful even just testing for trunk release. I've never had a problem, but I always use a DMM for testing. I'm pretty sure that when someone burns out the MICU in this manner, the same exact symptoms occur, no start with flashing key. I know I read about it in idatalinks forum, but their website is down right now, so I can't double check it.

X2 with Flobee4.  Sure sounds like a bricked MICU...Soldering is fun!

their forum is up, so I was able to find the post about it. It does also mention if you get the wrong RED / black wire at the fuse box, keys might need to be reprogrammed, here is the link: Forum Post about Accord

Thanks!...I had a bad hunch about this but i wanted to get someone else's opinion on thisI drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage