stealth , temperature python 5706

Hi, back in march I ask some questions about best remote start alarm to install in a 2002 Astro Van that I use while responding to disasters for FEMA. I end up sleeping in my vehicle many times when I get to the disaster area, so I set up this Astro Van to be my response vehicle. After getting some great advice here I just had a Python 5706P installed and I have a few things to work out. TEMP: First, the main intent on installing this alarm was that it offers a feature that will remote start the van when certain programmable temperatures are hit. This way I can sleep through hot southern nights or cold winter nights and stay reasonably comfy not having to get up and start the vehicle myself. Well the problem is that tucked under the dash near the fire wall the alarm really dose not get a reading even close to the cabin. When the cabin is 68 the alarm is still at 90, so I need to find a way to correct this. Ive 2 ideals.    1) find a 12vt RV HVAC thermostat and install it in the van cabin near where I sleep and then figger out how to wire it to the 5706P so it will trigger the alarm to remote start the van, then it will run for the time the alarm is programed for and shut off until the RV thermostat triggers it again. I'm thinking this is the best solution, and have an idea it will work but could use some guidance on what wire the 5706p would use as a remote start trigger, should I use a ground to make the connection or + ?? any programming I need to do with the 5706p?    2) open the alarm find if the temp sensor is removable and wire it to a location in the cabin. I like #1 better because the RV thermostat dose not require using the bitwritter to change the thresholds and can be set for infinite degree settings not just 10 deg adjustments. Also Id prefer not to start tearing apart the alarms guts. That being said can it be done? If so how? STEALTH: Ok one more issue, when I'm overnighting I don't want to call attention to the van or that I'm in it. Problem is when the van remote starts or regularly key starts it turns on the DRL, I can override the DRL once started but that resets back when the van turns off and the DRL come back on next time it starts. How can I defeat this with out pulling the lights relay under the hood each time? Thanks for your help and Idea's

Temp, configure your thermostat to send a NEG signal (might need a relay to boost the current) to the WHITE/ blue activation input at H2/21. Stealth the DRLs don't use much juice, loop some cable back from the DRL feeds (break the ground side, it's safer) back to an internal switch.

Thanks Howie II, I took a better look at a diagram of the 5706 and noticed a spot labeled Thermostat so I pulled the alarm, opened it up and noticed that the thermostat sensor is soldered on with 2 pins. This looks to be a simple task to unsolder and relocate. Question is I have a 36-48" run of wire to the center of the vans dog house (engine cover)where I would probably locate the sensor. Any suggestion on the gague and type of wire I should run??

No, thatis down to you! You could run thin gauge and a small PCB type relay to boost it.

After I posted last I started thinking about wire, I recalled that a Fluke I purchased a few years ago came with a temperature probe that consisted of a two solid core wires wrapped in a thermal insulator. So I used it. Took the 5706P apart and de-soldered the temperature sensor, soldered the wires I took from the fluke where the sensor had been and frab'd a anchor to take the stress off the circuit board. Then I soldered the sensor to the end of the 38" wire and reinstalled the alarm with the sensor right on top of the steering Colum. I put a digital thermometer right next to the sensor and let it be for 10 min. Then I used the 5706P 2way remote to read the temp. 78F, looked at the thermometer 78F! Used the bitwriter to set the 5706P hi temp to 80F then put a space heater in the van closed it up and activated the smartstart. Waited an hour just to let everything settle in and plugged in the space heater, looked at the thermometer thru the window and right after it hit 80 the van started! Love it when things work.... Only problem I had was tinning the wires to the sensor. The wire just did not want to take to the 60/40 rosin core solder I was using, tried dipping in some rosin flux and heating, got it joint to take but I'm not thrilled with the connection, Ill have to do some research on the wire and find how to better solder it. Was tempted to try acid flux but never liked using it on electronics. So now I have it set up so when the smartstart is activated the van will start when the temp dips below 50 or above 80, it will run for 15 min then shut off for 1hr if the temp is then below 50 or above 80 it starts again for a total of 10 cycles. Should help out when van camping. Next project might be to spray foam insulate the van interior with closed cell foam first I'll give it a couple nights test on a FEMA training seminar in GA this week. Thanks Howie II and everyone else on this board that chimed in to help.

I found a solution to the DRL, apparently Chevy had figured there would be situations where you would not want DRL to come on when turning the vehicle key on, while there is a temporary override to shut em down after turning the key on (4 clicks of the dome light override push button) this still leaves the parking lights on and defaults to DRL on each time the van key is turned back on. BUT if you engage the parking break the DRL & parking lights stay off until you manually turn them on. Perfect for my needs all I need to do is set the E brake turn the activate smartstart, set the HVAC controls and go to sleep.