heated seats controlled by remote starter

Hello, My first post here. So I have a remote starter installed in my car (Nordic NS1074) and I would like to be able to remotely switch on the driver's heated seat via the remote starter fob. I have a ford fusion 2010 and if I turn off the car while the heated seats are on, the heated seats will stay off when the car is started the next time. It has to be turned on manually every time, for safety reasons i guess. So it would very convenient to be able to remotely turn on the heated seat, after remotely turning on the engine via the remote starter fob, since the seats are leather and they do get very cold. I have two key fobs, the factory one and the remote starter key fob. Only the start button on the remote starter key fob is working because all the others are disconnected since I can use the factory fob to unlock/lock the doors and trunk. I have attached the wiring diagram for the heated seats and the schematic for the remote starter. What I did was that I connected the driver heater feed wire (yel/blu) from the heated seat to the trunk output wire (1 - blue) on the remote starter module. I also connected the GROUND when running output (10 - white) in the remote starter module to ground. I did that thinking that when I press the trunk key on the remote starter key fob, the driver's heated seat would switch on. But after I tried it, it fried something in the remote starter module and I could smell it, and now the remote starter does not work. It was probably was the bypass module because its led does not work anymore, and when I try to start the car the key sign on the gauge cluster flashes. How should this be connected?? I have been asking people for over a year with no help. I would appreciate any help! Thank you, Hasan

Okay...you've misinterpreted here, Hasan. The 'ground while running' wire is for controlling that bypass module. It's an output, and should only be connected to another electrical component that takes that low current output. By connecting it to ground, you've likely fried the module or remote start, or both! Unfortunately, the following info might not help you if that's the case...but here goes anyway... The wire is also a low current output meant to drive a relay, that will trigger your accessory(trunk).

However this is an UNLATCHED output that will send a momentary pulse only.

IF your heated seats are a button that could work, but if they are on a switch that locks in position,sending current during this 'active' time...you'll need a latched output,like that ground while running output. That wire goes negative,again low current, whenever the remote start is engaged.

You'll need any standard BOSCH style relay, at least 4 terminals will be connected.

85: 12v constant fused!!!

86: Trigger wire (your trunk output, or Aux, or ground while running)

87: Ground (assumed, since your diagram does not include polarity from what I can see. You'd need to test this to be sure as to which polarity the button provides the heated seat module.)

30: Output to heated seat trigger (what I believe may be WHITE/ blue on your diagram. Lo/Hi/OFF.Each time you trigger it toggles that feature.

That should be a start, but again...use a multimeter or test light and test your wires!!

I will be sure to check back to see your progress or if you did in fact damage your equipment.

Hope this helps!

Thank you so much for your quick reply SKratch!! The bypass is module is not working anymore, but the starter is since it turns on the battery but fails to start engine because of the damaged bypass module. I have a button for the heated seats which I press so it should work. I will try what you suggested maybe next weekend, after I get a new bypass module, and will post of any progress. Thanks again!!

You need to be very careful and get all of your research done before proceeding further with the heated seats... Especially since damage to the vehicle's electronics may cost hundreds to thousands of dollars. First set all of the wires back to the way it was and get your remote start issue resolved. Now for the heated seats, it looks like there are two wires between the EATC and the Heated Seat Module that control each seat. The two wires are WHT/BLU, GRY/YEL; pin 12 and pin 15 respectively on the Heated Seat Module. You need to test these 2 wires using a digital multimeter (not an analog meter, not a test light, a DMM). Connect the black lead of the meter to ground, the red lead to the wire being tested, turn the meter to DC Volts; note the readings while the seat heater is off, then switch on high, then low, then off. Take a note of the readings and we can help you set up an appropriate circuit. If you get no reading on the multimeter then most likely the two modules communicate by data and we won't be able to use those wire. Let us know what you find.

Ok so I made the measurement today on the WHT/BLU wire. The voltage is constant at 13.6 V when the drivers heated seat is off. When the driver's heated seat button is pressed once (high setting) the voltage on the wire goes to zero and then goes back to 13.6 V after about 2 seconds. The same thing happens when the button is pressed again for low setting. What does that mean?

You only need a momentary output, not a constant, to turn on your heated seats when the car is remotely started. When you press your heated seat button, you don't HOLD the button in to keep them on, right? NO, you press the button once, and the heated seats come on, controlled my a module. Don't mess with the module! Find a wire from the remote start that only has a 12V pulse at srart, not continual. We use one that is only hot when the starter is being engaged, 2.5 second duration max, if we have no other alternative. You lengthen, and splice that wire, with a diode (to prevent current going back to the module when you press that button any other time), to the side button of the seat heater that turns it on. You may have to use a resistor to lower the voltage if necessary. You test the voltage at the BUTTON PRESS, then match that voltage to the pulsed wire from the starter module. We do this all the time, and it works just fine.

As I read your 1st post again, I get the feeling that you caused damage to the remote starter, not the bypass module. Concern 1: You said that you connected the blue (-) trunk wire of the R/S directly to the heated seat power wire, I have a bad feeling you may have burned out the trunk output on the remote starter. First of all test the Blue (-) trunk wire. To do so, connect the red lead of the DMM to a +12v power source, the black lead to the Blue trunk wire. Press the trunk button on the remote, the meter should go from 0V to 12V then back to 0V... If this checks out, then the trunk output is working. Concern 2: The White ground while running (GWR) wire is supposed to connect to the bypass module. It gives the bypass module a continuous ground signal for the entire duration of a remote start run time. The bypass will turn on only while it's getting this ground signal from the GWR wire. You said that you connected the white GWR wire to ground, was the GWR disconnected from the bypass module at the time you connected it to ground? And how do you have the white GWR now? Is it connected to the same wire on the bypass module as it was before? If it isn't, then it needs to connect back to the bypass module as it was before. If it is connected as it was before, then you need to test the white GWR output. To do so, connect the red lead of the DMM to a +12v power source, connect the black lead to the white GWR wire. Now try doing a remote start, the meter should go from 0V and stay at 12V the entire duration the remote start tries to start the car, then 0V once it shuts off. If this doesn't check out, then most likely the GWR output on the remote start is damaged and the bypass is probably fine. Post back with an update as to what you find. I have the info regarding the heated seat, but let's figure out the issues with the remote starter before we proceed.

Thanks powerslave, I'll give it a try. Yellow_cake: I don't really care about the trunk output of the remote starter, I don't use it anyway. But I will check it out. As for the GWR wire, it did not exist. This whole 12 pin connector was not there on the remote starter and it was working fine. That ground wire connecting to the bypass module you're talking about could be the green wire (5th relay) on the remote starter. Thanks!

The trunk output would have been used as an auxiliary out to control the heated seat, you can use any negative (-) Aux type output (trunk, lock, unlock, etc). GWR not being connected means the bypass is connected through the D2D (data to data) cable... In this case the remote starter communicates with the bypass through this cable and also feeds the power to the bypass. Anyway, here's the info on the heated seats... The WHT/BLU wire you tested earlier is coming from the heated seat button on the EATC module. Based on your test, it rests at positive, then goes to ground momentarily to trigger the seat heater via the Heated Seat Module. Basically this wire needs a (-) pulse to toggle the seat heater hi/lo/off. You would not be using a 12v "hot" wire from the remote starter as someone above suggested (it's fairly clear based on your test). You can even test this by momentarily touching this WHT/BLU wire to vehicle ground for 1 second, it should turn on the heated seat. If this works, you can proceed below. Since you tested only the driver's side wire (WHT/BLU), I'm assuming you only want the driver's seat hooked up.. If this is correct, here is the info on how to connect to it: You may use any available (-) AUX output (such as trunk, lock, unlock, etc.) from the R/S to trigger this wire. If the WHT/BLU wire is a thin gauge then it is probably safe to connect the aux wire directly to it without a relay.

I connected a wire to the WHT/BLU wire and got the other end of the wire and made contact with the LOCK pin on the remote starter module. The heated seats switched on. Another contact caused it to go low setting, and finally another caused it to switch off. Do i need a relay?