viper 5904 in ram 1500 tips

It has been a while since I have done an alarm install, about 7 years or so. I have a background in electronics and have installed a few viper systems (791xv, 800esp, and a python) along with express window modules, door poppers, automotive audio and video systems. A lot of this isn't new to me but there are some new things that I am seeing that look like they can make or break the install if not done right. I am usually pretty OCD about making sure I have the right wire, using the factory wiring schematic, and triple checking before I make the connection (soldered wherever possible, I avoid crimps like the plague). Of course this makes the install take a lot longer but once in and ops checked I haven't had issues with the system so I guess it's a fair trade off. The last alarm I did was a viper 791xv and I didn't do anything with the remote start side of the alarm so tach hook ups and the 1st/2nd accessory and other remote start hook ups are new. What I am looking for is the wisdom and experience of those that do these installs on a regular basis (or even a one timer that learned the hard lessons)and know a particular step or wiring configuration that was tricky and can help keep me from making the same mistake. I don't anticipate any issues since I haven't seen any threads on here or any other sites with problem installs on a Dodge Ram and I hope I am not going to be the exception. I have a 2005 Ram 1500 Hemi with factory alarm. The factory keyless remote started acting up on me so now it is time to upgrade. I am going with the Fortin evo-all bypass module with DBI enabled for the D2D on a viper 5904. I like the Idatalink just as much as Fortin but not being able to reflash my own module if something goes wrong is a big turn off for me so Fortin won out. With this setup it look pretty straight forward on the alarm side of things, maybe even easier than the previous installs that I have done since I don't have to wire up door locks with polarity concerns or relay through a resistor and diodes for a car with ground lock/unlock circuits. My concerns are with the remote start wiring, primarily. I am still going over the install manual and my wiring diagrams to map it all out and re-familiarize myself with what these wires do. What should I look out for? Avoid? Etc. Will I need to use all the accessory wires (acc1, acc2, flex). With the Fortin hooked in to the system do I need to wire up the tach wire from the viper to the truck or not. I know it's a long first post but I appreciate the help and hope I can return the favor. I did read through a lot on here to help avoid redundant questions but since I didn't see anything specific to my vehicle (or close enough model/year) and it seems a lot of things are vehicle specific so I'd rather ask than assume. Thanks

The install in pretty straight forward.    A few notes ( that you seem aware of ) :

1.  I'm guessing that you have the Fortin FlashLink USB cable and you know to check off the DBI D2D box.  The     FlashLink Manager program will guide you in selecting the correct version of firmware ( Ver 4.06 max ).2.  Follow the EVO-ALL install guide for Connection 1.  The Gray dashed lines will be handled by D2D, so only     the solid Black line need to be run. 3.  There is no EVO-ALL plain "Disarm" wire, so with your Factory alarm system, you might have to go into the       EVO-ALL  Advanced Programming options and turn on the "Unlock before / Lock after R/S" option.4.   You will need a relay and 590 ohm resistor for the Parking Lights.5.  There is some conflicting info on the ignition wires.  You will need to test and verify to be sure.  The Viper      has the Flex relay and additional (-) 200 mA ignition outputs ( that require relays ) to support whatever you      find.6.  And the usual Viper quirks.  Neutral Safety wire & switch, Auto Trans Mode, Parking Light jumper / fuse, etc...

With your experience, prep work and use of soldered connections, it should be a pretty smooth install.  Good luck! 

Soldering is fun!

Thanks. I am guessing the 590ohms is what the headlight switch shows on the parking light circuit. I really miss the days when a switch was just a switch and not all complicated with these circuits inside what should simply be a contact of 2 metal conductors.