4206p 00 malibu guide?

Looking for some help as I have just purchased the Python 4206P remote start for my 2000 Malibu. I have access to all the wiring schematics that I'll need for the car but I'm stuck on the install guide. Just trying to figure out which wires I don't need to hook up but I am uncertain of the terminology used in the quick reference install guide. All I'm looking to do is... 1) Obviously Remote start to work 2) Door locks and trunk release to work That's it for now. Obviously the system has many capabilities but I just need the list above to work. Can someone please help me weed out which connection I don't need? I'll probably have a few questions a bit later but right now I'd like to look at the Install Guide and eliminate wires I won't be using Here's the guide breakdown Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector H1/1   RED     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT H1/2   BLACK     (-) CHASSIS GROUND H1/3   BROWN    (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT H1/4   WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay H1/5   WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY H1/6   ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector H2/1   PNK/WHITE     (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT H2/2   BLACK/ WHITE     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT H2/3   BLUE/WHITE     (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT H2/5 RED / WHITE     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT** H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------ H2/9 DARK BLUE     (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET     (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW     (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) H2/20 GRAY/BLACK      (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE     ACTIVATION INPUT H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE     TACHOMETER INPUT H2/24 GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Remote Start harness (H3), 8-pin connector H3/1     PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT H3/2     RED / WHITE     +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT H3/3     ORANGE     (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT H3/4     VIOLET     (+) STARTER OUTPUT H3/5     RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT H3/6     PINK/WHITE     IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT H3/7     PINK/BLACK     FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY H3/8     RED / BLACK     +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1     BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT 2     EMPTY NOT USED 3     GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, ROB

Hi Rob,

Welcome to the 12V Forum!

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector

H1/1   RED     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT    Red @ ignition switch harnessH1/2   BLACK     (-) CHASSIS GROUND Chassis GroundH1/3   BROWN    (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT    Black @ ignition switch harness H1/4   WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION       not usedH1/5   WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY    ***Set for (+) Brown @ Headlight Switch H1/6   ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT not used

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector

H2/1   PNK/WHITE     (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT    not usedH2/2   BLACK/ WHITE     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Chassis ground ( if auto trans )H2/3   BLUE/WHITE     (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOG OUTPUT      not usedH2/4 GREEN/ BLACK      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT       not usedH2/5 RED / WHITE     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT    To Pin 85 of relay **H2/6 GREEN          (-) DOOR INPUT**     not usedH2/7 BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT     not usedH2/8 EMPTY          ------------------------------------ H2/9 DARK BLUE     (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT          bypass module GWRH2/10 PINK          (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT           not usedH2/11 WHITE/ BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT        not usedH2/12 VIOLET          (+) DOOR INPUT      not usedH2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET     (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT       not usedH2/14 VIOLET/BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT                    not usedH2/15 ORANGE / BLACK     (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT    not usedH2/16 BROWN          (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT     Light Blue @ Brake Pedal SwitchH2/17 GRAY          (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)     to supplied hood pinH2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW     (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT         not usedH2/19 BLUE**          FACTORY HORN INPUT     not usedH2/20 GRAY/BLACK      (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT      not usedH2/21 WHITE/ BLUE     ACTIVATION INPUT        not usedH2/22 ORANGE          (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT           not usedH2/23 VIOLET/WHITE     TACHOMETER INPUT   see note 1H2/24 GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT not used

** The Trunk Release Output is (-) and the Malibu needs a (+) signal.  Use a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay w/ 10 Amp fuse

as shown below :Relay Pin 85 to H2/5Relay Pin 86 & 87 to +12V constant through 10 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to Malibu BLACK/ WHITE (+)  @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH  Relay Pin 87a not used

Note 1 : The TACH wire on the 4-Cylinder is a WHITE (AC) at the IGNITION COIL, on the V6, the TACH wire is a

PURPLE / WHITE at the coil pack.

Remote Start harness (H3), 8-pin connector

H3/1     PINK          (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT        Pink @ ignition switch harnessH3/2     RED / WHITE     +12V FUSED (30A)          Red @ ignition switch harness       H3/3     ORANGE     (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Orange @ ignition switch harnessH3/4     VIOLET     (+) STARTER OUTPUT           Yellow @ ignition switch harnessH3/5     RED          +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT           Red @ ignition switch harnessH3/6     PINK/WHITE     FLEX RELAY OUTPUT ***set for IGN2 Green @ ignition switch harnessH3/7     PINK/BLACK     FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a             not usedH3/8     RED / BLACK     +12V FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT       Red @ ignition switch harness

Door Lock, 3-pin connector

1     BLUE          (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT    To 451M door lock module2     EMPTY          NOT USED 3     GREEN          (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT       To 451M door lock moduleThe Directed 451M door lock module is inexpensive ( > $9 ), neat and easy to use.  You can also use 2 SPDT realysas shown in this Type A (+) diagram :  https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp

You will need a bypass module for the Passlock2 immobilizer system.   Popular DIYer modules include :

Directed 555L, 556L, 556LW, PLXR, PLJX; Fortin PASSLOCK-SL2 v.2; ADS iDatalink ADS TBSL PLYou can also bypass the Passlock2 with a resistor and some relays.  Here is the process : http://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply! Man that's a lot of info. Time to get the Advil. Well lets start with the simplest connector. Bare with me as I'm not REAL good with electrical. Doorlock 3 pin. 1     BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT 2     EMPTY NOT USED 3     GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT Couldn't I wire it up as per this diagram... Note color of arrows corresponding to wire colors from above and tap into those wires?

That is basically where you are going to connect to.  Notice the wire colors are the same as the wire guide

listing and connecting in the DKP is pretty easy.  However, you need to supply that point with a (+) input signal, not the low current (-) output that the 4206 supplies.  That is the reason for the relays or 451M module, to convert the 4206's (-) output to the (+) output the car needs.

The relays coils are tied together at Pin 86, which goes to E10 C1 Black wire to chassis ground, G201.  Pin 85

needs to be +12V to energize the coil.

Here is a link to the Bulldog Security wire list with photos for your car :

http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/printlist.aspx?MakeID=13&ModelID=20284

Soldering is fun!

Thanks again That is the reason for the relays or 451M module, to convert the 4206's (-) output to the (+) output the car needs. The relays coils are tied together at Pin 86, which goes to E10 C1 Black wire to chassis ground, G201. Pin 85 needs to be +12V to energize the coil. I guess that makes sense. So now the H3 connector... Note image of proper wiring placement (i made pic smaller as the forum rules state 640 pixels. If need be I'll make bigger) Questions 1)Why H3/3 Orange to orange and not the BRN in the wiring diagram? 2)H3/6 Pink/White to DRK GRN? What is the purpose of FLEX RELAY OUTPUT ***set for IGN2? What does this mean?

Hopefully the above is correct. Now for H1 harness. H1/1 I'll just tap into the same place as the (H3/2,H3/5,H3/8) as above. H1/2 obvious chassis ground H1/3 Diagram in previous post doesn't show a black wire for whatever reason... So note pic. I should be okay with tapping in there correct? Also, having a problem with H1/5 BROWN? Headlamp switch schematic.... Doesn't show a brown wire in that particular diagram. But, Front Park/turn and marker lamps diagram... That what I'm looking for? Also stated "***Set for (+)" AS IN? The fuse jumper in the remote start module?

Ok.  This might be a very long reply. 

First we should start off with a few basic "rules" for auto electronics as applied to the installation of after-market

accessories, like your remote start with keyless entry.1.  It is best to keep the wires short.  Besides being neater, this will eliminate parasitic line loss issues that occur     in high current runs and would necessitate larger gauge wire.  In-line fuses should be within one foot of their     connection / source.2.  Wherever possible, try to keep the wire connections inside the passenger cabin.  This will protect the connections     from the weather, the heat of the engine compartment and the possible rubbing & chaffing if not positioned and     run perfectly.3.  As you have seen looking at the vehicles wiring diagrams, there are multiple places and wires where you can     make your connection to achieve the desired result.  As the installer, you can / will decide the exact location.       Typically, installers will look for a place that provides good access for the required soldering tools, while       following Rules 1 and 2 above.4.  The majority of installers will not disconnect the battery during an install.  This is to prevent radio preferences      from being lost, reseting computers ( "Not Ready" for state emission inspections ) and other reasons.  It       also allows testing / re-testing during the wire connection process.  Aside from the main ignition harness      connector, if any connector has to be unplugged, the battery should be disconnected.5.  During the install, running the wires from the control unit to their connection point neatly and then cutting them      to length is an important part of the job.  Making a good solder connection and insulating that joint with a quality      electric tape ( Scotch Super 33+ ) is even more important.6.  While planning and preparation is very important, the goal is to install the after-market accessory in a way that     will provide many years of trouble-free use, as efficiently as possible.   Most of the engineering of the accessory     is done and appropriate for the vehicles needs.  The wires are the correct gauge and long enough for most vehicle     applications.   The axiom of K.I.S.S. can come into play.  Over thinking an issue can impede the install.  The wire     guide listings available from Bulldog Security and Auviovox generally supply the "tried and true" wires and locations.7.  One of the most important tools used during the install is the Digital Multi Meter.  Even though you have the full     vehicle wiring documentation, you should test and verify each wire before making a connection.  Often times a     connection will be easiest by catching the desired wire in a kick panel or door sill but locating that needed wire in a      large wire harness with 40+ wires, with several the same color combination, will be impossible without a DMM.

Here is an example from a Ford F-150 of a typical wire harness...

A few answers to your questions.

H3/3 is connected to the Malibu's Orange ACC1 wire.  As you discovered, there is also a Brown ( ACC2 ) wire.  Thatwire and this issue have been mentioned many times on this Forum.  Here are the two basic thoughts on the Brown ACC2 wire.1.  It is not absolutely necessary for a remote start install.       A. The vehicle will remote start OK and will not cause any CEL's or damage to the vehicle with it not powered.       B. The Brown wire only powers non-essential items  ( like the radio, wipers, power windows, etc ).  The Orange ACC1 wire powers the Heater and A/C circuits that are desired during a remote start.     C.  It requires an extra relay and fuses that cost money and consume time during the install.2.  It is best to fully duplicate all normal functions that a regular key start does.     A.  Powering the Brown ACC2 wire will ensure that the vehicle is completely fooled into thinking a key was          used to start the engine.The choice is yours.  Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.  Your 4206 has a Flex relay output that is already being used to power IGN2 during a remote start.  If you choose to power the Brown ACC2 wire, you will use the H2/22 Orange (-) Accessory Output wire to control an extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay that will supply power to this Brown ACC2 wire.

H1/3 Horn wiring.  The horn diagram you found / posted shows a BLK ( Black ) wire going from the horn button on

the steering wheel, through the slip ring and leaving the multi-function switch connector at C2.  I believe that is thewire that I incorrectly listed above as "Black @ Ignition switch harness".  An error on my part, it should have said"Black @ steering column".  Sorry for the confusion, I was going fast and cutting & pasting.

H1/5 Parking Light connection.  It looks like the first diagram posted covers only the Headlight function of the switch.

The second diagram shows the Parking Lights after the BCM.  Is there another diagram that details the Parking Light control switch circuit?  While I believe that the Brown (+) Parking Light wire is the best and easiest wire to locate andconnect to, there is a White (-) Parking Light control wire as noted by this info from Bulldog Security :PARKING LIGHTS ( - )    WHITE (-)    @ BCM, BEHIND PASSENGER SIDE OF THE DASH      This is the wire shown in the second diagram at the BCM.   However, while Bulldog does not mention it, this White (-) Parking Light wire might have to be relay isolated from the BCM to prevent damage to the BCM, but I am not positive about this.

Soldering is fun!

Long but to the point. At least you actually go into detail where as I've been around on mant a random forums where the majority of people wont even expalin or back up their opinions/views. So, All is taken into account. As far as the H3/3 wire dilema I had, it was due to 1 thing which is how the diagrams are labled. Look at the Ignition C1 and C2 connectors... Note C1 cavity C Orange, Ign switch out (ignition 3) were as C2 cavity C Brown is also Ign switch out but labeled ACCY. Hence my confusion since the install guide states (+) ACC out. Now, I'll admit that I'm not great with wiring. I can work with whats there but when it comes to fully understanding or adding something new then I'm a bit iffy. Prime example is your #1 and #2 statements. I dont understand the conclusion of extra relay and fuses. How can I understand this? I mean I'd like to understand how to look at a circuit and be able to tell, like in this instance of orange vs brown, which would be a better choice and actually comprehend how and why. So I'm set then on location of H1/3 Horn wiring. As far as the H1/5 parking light connection... I stayed up late and must have been euphoric and missed them... I believe these 2 should help... Got a few things I'd like to ask but it'll have to wait till later. Don't want too much clutter at one time. THANKS, ROB

On the Brown ACC2 wire. 

The IGN3 label applied to the Orange wire that we are calling ACC1, is one of those industry specific terms that can

sometimes have several meanings.  Basically, in this case it means that the Orange wire has power when the key is in the Ignition position only.  It does not have power with the key in the Accessory position ( the Heat, fans and A/C does not function ) and unlike a normal "Ignition" type wire, it looses power when the key is in the Start position ( less drag on the battery ).  The Brown wire is more of a typical Accessory type wire, because it has power in the Accessory and On positions, but not in the Start position.

As mentioned previously, I believe you can go with Option 1 above and leave the Brown wire "not used" for the R/S

install.  If you choose to go with Option 2 and power it during the remote start run time, you will need a 30/40 Amp Bosch style SPDT relay and 20 Amp fuse.  Here is the relay wiring :Relay Pin 85 to Viper  H2/22 Orange (-) Accessory Output Relay Pins 86 and 87 to Malibu +12V constant through 20 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to Malibu Brown ACC2 wire @ ignition switch harnessRelay Pin 87a not used

Parking Lights :

Still think there is a wiring diagram for the Dash Light Switch that details the Parking Light function, similar to thediagram you posted earlier with the Headlight function shown.  Anyway, there should be a Brown wire that tests asa (+) Parking Light wire at the headlight switch connector.   Here is a video on replacing the switch assy and the Brown wire should be found in the connector on the lower left ( driver's ) side.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pR8NmTJ3QVI    Here is another possible location for the Brown (+) Parking Light wire, shown in this picture of the lower Passenger Kick Panel :

Soldering is fun!

I'll just go with the ORN wire. Can't find anything else on the Dash Light Switch that details the Parking Light function. Spent hours looking and nothing. I'll just use the BRN wire. Either way... Just a quick recap... Remote Start harness (H3), 8-pin connector H3/1     PINK - (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT (Pink @ ignswitch) (C2/PIN B) H3/2     RED / WHITE - +12V FUSED (30A) (Red @ ignswitch) (C2/PIN A)       H3/3     ORANGE - (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT (Orange @ ignswitch) (C1/PIN C) H3/4     VIOLET- (+) STARTER OUTPUT (Yellow @ ignswitch) (C1/PIN B) H3/5     RED - +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT Red @ ignswitch) (C2/PIN A) H3/6     PINK/WHITE - FLEX RELAY OUTPUT ***set for IGN2 Green @ ignswitch) ( C1/ PIN E) H3/8     RED / BLACK - +12V FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT Red @ ignswitch) (C2/PIN A) Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector H1/1   RED     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT (Red @ ignswitch) (C2/PIN A) H1/2   BLACK     (-) CHASSIS GROUND (Chas Ground) (Chassis Ground) H1/3   BROWN    (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT (Black @ headlmp switch) (C2/PIN A) H1/5   WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY ***Set for (+) (Brown @ headlmp Switch) C2/PIN A)    Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT - To 451M door lock module 3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT - To 451M door lock module Will order and wire up door locks with this... 451M H2/2   BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Chassis ground ( if auto trans ) (Chassis Ground) H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT To Pin 85 of relay ** H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT bypass module GWR H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Light Blue @ Brake Pedal Switch (C1/C2/C3 Circuit 1134) H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)to supplied hood pin ??? (PURPOSE?) (No start with hood open?) H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT see note 1 (circuit 121/ wht wire/ PIN A2) Trunk release - Will get a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay w/ 10 Amp fuse and wire up as previously suggested. Bypass module - Xpress Kit PLJX Look good? Thumbs up? Thanks, ROB