2013 nissan sentra, viper 4104

Hello I'm installing a viper 4104 with the dball2 flashed with 402.NISS1HT version 3.11. I'm wiring the r/S in D2D mode, and just wondering if a relay will be required at the IPDM?

The dball2 guide makes no reference to what your inquiring about so either you haven't looked at the install guide or somethings awry. The sentra will not use a connection for the automatic headlamps and won't need unlock/lock wires connected to the BCM if the car doesn't have a factory alarm.

If your referring to the relay for the automatic lamps YES you need to do a relay. The relay is needed to re open the circuit and power down the automatic lamps when canceling remote start. Say for example you remote start the car. You then decide your not leaving and shut down the remote start via remote or just letting it run and time out shutting down on its own. With out the relay the lights would stay on ontil your battery dies.Gary Sather

tonanzith wrote: If your referring to the relay for the automatic lamps YES you need to do a relay. The relay is needed to re open the circuit and power down the automatic lamps when canceling remote start. Say for example you remote start the car. You then decide your not leaving and shut down the remote start via remote or just letting it run and time out shutting down on its own. With out the relay the lights would stay on ontil your battery dies.

Not needed on the 2007-2013 sentra per Dball2 manual.

OK guys I could really use some help here. The frustration is piling up for me as I've tried numerous times to get this install done. I'm installing a viper 4104 on a 2013 Nissan Sentra standard key. I'm using a dball2 on a D2D connection. I have made all necessary connections between the DBall2 and the Viper through D2D obviously. I have connected the Viper Ignition 1, 12V, Starter 1, Ground, and Accessory 1 to the corresponding wires @ the ignition harness. I have connected the ignition 2/flex relay input to accessory 2, and changed its function with the bitwiter to accessory 2. I have the neutral safety wire grounded and the flipswitch for the neutral safety input turned to the on position. Without these connections the viper would give me 8 "clicks" portraying I had a neutral safety error. I have taken the other 3 power leads for ignition 1 relay, acc/starter relay, and the ignition 2/flex relay input and given them 12V constant connections through 20A fuses. Currently I have tried both Tachometer and Virtual Tach without any results. The car itself turns on, all lights illuminated, radio and heat/AC turn on, as if the key is turned to the ON position, but the starter will not engage. Almost like if the starter was completely dead. I have no problem starting it with the key. So what in the world could be my problem? I have followed very carefully the advice of many of you guys who are obviously anything but beginners in this field so I'm almost positive I have done correctly everything. Please please please help me

My apology the ignition 2/flex relay OUTPUT is hooked to the accessory 2 wire of my vehicle, with its function being changed as such via the bitwriter

Try it with the key in the ignition but not turned. It will indicate if you have a transponder issue.sparky

OK thank you sparky. Tried that out and it worked so I know I have a transponder issue. Finally a step in the right direction. So thank you!!!!! I will see how to fix this and go from there and relay any questions I might have. Thanks again!

If the module responded like it was programmed (correct LED flashes) you should recheck the data and clock wires. It may program correctly, but if you don't connect the cut wires correctly, the car won't remote start. Try resetting the module and reprogramming it too.sparky

OK so tomorrow I will double check those wires. It was funny actually the wire codes with the dball2 said the two wires were red and orange located at the nats 4 pin antenna connector. Well that was incorrect as the only 4 pin white connector consisted of black, pink, purple, and light green. It threw me for a curve ball as a matter of fact for a while. I happened to notice this was the wiring scheme for the Nissan versa and juke so I looked up the ignition barrel part numbers and they were the same. I'm looking at the schematic and I think I see my error in the cut wires. Going to fix that. It programmed normally gave me the green led flashes but that makes since now. OK I'll give updates. Once again thank you so much sparky