2005 CRV with Viper 5103 and DBALL2

Haven't installed a higher end RS system before but I've installed the cheaper box store ones on 90's era cars in the past. I've done all my homework and I think I've got it but I thought I'd post here with the hopes that someone could look things over for me and make sure I have it right. Thanks in advance!! Viper harness H1/1 Trunk release-------> Black / Yellow wire in drivers kick panel 22 pin plug wire #16 H1/2 Constant 12V------> White wire in the ignition switch H1/3 Horn-------> Orange wire in the factory alarm plug ( I don't have a factory alarm in this car so hopefully the plug is there) H1/5 Chassis Ground -----> Grounded to body H1/9 Dome light output -------->Green / red wire in drivers kick panel 22 pin plug wire #19 (*Any idea if this wire goes through a relay or if it's just direct power to the dome light?) H1/11 Parking light-------> (+) Polarity RED / yellow wire in the dash fuse box 10 pin light green connector (G) pin #9 (*Anyone have a connector diagram?) H3/1 Ignition 1 input / output ---->Black / yellow wire in the ignition switch H3/3 Accessory output ------>Black / Red wire in the ignition switch H3/4 Starter output -----> Black / White wire in the ignition switch H3/6 Ignition 2 ----> White / Red wire in the ignition switch RS input 5 pin connector 1 NSS-----> Chassis Ground 2 Tach input-----> Blue wire in the dash fuse box plug J pin #5 3 Brake shut down ----> White / black wire in Brake switch 4 Hood pin switch ------> Hood pin 5 Program for rear defroster ------> Yellow / Black wire in heater control unit plug. 30 pin green, pin #20 Door lock harness 1 Unlock output -----> White / green wire in the drivers kick 22 pin, #12 2 Not used 3 lock output -----> White / blue wire in the drivers kick 22 pin, #1

Looks pretty good.  The Green factory alarm plug will be there.  Besides the Horn wire, it will also have the

(-) Parking Light wire.  I would use that (-) Parking Light wire instead of the (+)  Parking Light wire.  While those two connectors in the DKP area ( alarm plug and Gray plug for the lock and trunk release wires ) are high up and hard to get to, but easy to find and verify those needed wires.

Don't forget to connect the Red and RED / Black and RED / White wires in the H3 plug to the White +12V constant

wire in the ignition harness.  The H3/6 ING2 output wire should be re-programmed for ACC2 operation beingas the CRV's WHITE/ Red wire is an accessory wire.

For the Tach wire there is a 2 pin test connector next to the battery in the engine compartment.  Also easy to

find and you are running a wire through the firewall for the hood pin anyway...

Soldering is fun!

Addendum :  The DB-ALL2 with 402.HONDA4 v3.06 will do more than just the transponder bypass.  Looking at the Type 3 install diagram, it handles the trunk pop, locks and alarm ( if present ).  It's slightly over-kill for this vehicle unless you have the factory alarm because everything is right there for hard-wiring.  Think I would go with a less expensive bypass module like a PKH34 or XK05 w/PKH3 firmware. 

Soldering is fun!

Kreg, Thanks for the quick reply! I'll add those 3 wires to the H3 harness to the white constant power wire, not sure why I omitted them in my notes. Thanks for the heads up on the DBALL2, I guess that's what inexperience will get you. The DEI site recommended that one so I went ahead and got it. I'm heading out to put it in so hopefully it'll all go smoothly from here on out.

The DB-ALL2 is only a $15 difference and can save a few wire connections. If you have the DB-All2, make sure it was flashed with the correct Honda4 firmware.Soldering is fun!

You should be able to pick up tach at rear of gauges, blue wire. Once you remove the instrument cluster you've got bags of room to mount both unit and DB-ALL, makes for a very neat and secure installation. Anyone mention keysense or does the DB-ALL 2 handle this?

Hi Howard, Yes, the DB-ALL2 handles the locks, truck release and alarm.Soldering is fun!

Ta.

Yep, I got the XK Loader and I've flashed everything for the CRV. I'm running the DBALL 2 in W2W mode after reading some people having some communications issues, everything seems pretty straight forward but there is one wire that I want to verify. The Blue / White (-) GWR (status) Input from the the Dball2 I think should be tied to the Blue wire on the remote start auxiliary output 5 pin pin harness which is (-) 200ma status output, does that sound right?

Hmmm hadn't even thought of mounting the RS and DBALL behind the gauge cluster. I had them out the other night to change the back light bulbs, I'll have to pull it again and see what it looks like. Thanks for the tip!