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Clifford 5706 wiring.


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d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 26, 2016 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
Hello everyone, I've read a few of these posts and it seems you get a whole load of questions regarding these types of alarm so I'll try not to take up much of you time.
I have the Clifford 5706 2 way, similar if not the same as the viper 5706.
I have a MK1 Ford Focus RS.
I've done allot of wiring in the past and am quite confident that I can wire it in but there a few things that are confusing me.
Most of the wires state (-) 200ma, now does this mean that they will pulse to ground to activate which ever circuit/relay?
If so what if the desired circuit (e.g. Door locks) require a 12v pulse as I'm sure some of them do.
Some of the descriptions for the wires I need to tap into are a little confusing, apologies if some of these are obvious but I'm not that familiar with some of the terminology.
For e.g.
What is the,
-Main Harness-
- (-) 500ma (GWA) Ground when armed output.
-Auxiliary/shutdown/trigger harness-
- (-) ignition 2 flex relay output.
- (-) 200ma status output.
- Activation input
And last question.
- (-) Door input (N/O or N/C)
- (+) Door input.
There's these 2 wires for door input, do they both need to be used or is either the negative or positive one used depending on my cars wiring.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Dean.
Clifford 5706 wiring. -- posted image.
Clifford 5706 wiring. -- posted image.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 27, 2016 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
1) They are both the same.
2) Trunk (hatch release), BLACK / YELLOW at the switch or GEM module.
This is a low current NEG wire so your RED / white, 3 on the 24 pin harness can be directly connected.
The only case for a relay would be for headlight activation.
N.B BROWN / black at 16 can also connect directly, should be blue/black,loom from steering column.
There's also a way if your vehicle has OEM deadlock to deadlock the vehicle on arm and normal lock on ignition using a relay and an aux.
3) The GWA no 6 could drive either an extra relay for ignition cut (not advisable, too dangerous, a bad connection could stall the engine at speed) or extra LED's.
4) You will need to bypass your OEM immobiliser using a DEI 556U, since I assume you're using this for it's intended purp[ose as an alarm + remote start. the dark blue status output triggers it. You will need an extra plain key, Timpsons etc. Must be chipped.
5) NO door triggers, go to the interior and hatch lights, these will be on plugs at your GEM module, that's the box above your throttle pedal. 2 or 4 doors contacts are all separate, need to be dioded together and back feed dioded see here, Ford 1076 diagram VERY important otherwise your alarm will trigger off every half hour or so.
6) Ignore (+) door trigger N/A.
7) Indicators are at GEM module, blue and blue/red you will need to Y-diode out the white wire (set (+)) with two X 1N5404 diodes.
A very easy install (when you've done loads) every thing bar the siren and bonnet switch is right hand under dash.
Just a word, if you have to ask these questions, get a pro to install it.
d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 28, 2016 at 12:24 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
thanks mate i appriciate your reply, once i understand it ill be fine with the fitting, ive done allot of wiring and am confident i could make a good job of it but ive never worked to a wiring diagram like this before and neded some help with the wire descriptions.
standard security etc.. isnt a problem as i dont have a standard ecu and the fors PATS system isnt active.
and what do you mean when you said "there both the same"
and being honest if i knew of a mobile auto eectrician that could do it and wouldnt cost the earth if probobly pay them to do it to save me the hassle. but i dont know of anyone in my area and would rather get someone that had been recomended.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 28, 2016 at 1:17 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Where are you?
Viper = Clifford, Same product.
d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 28, 2016 at 1:50 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
im in nottingham uk. the one thing thats confusing me the most is the (-) and (+) symbols. does that mean e out put on that wire will either be (-) pulse to ground and (+) pulses 12v?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 28, 2016 at 1:56 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Yes.
d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 04, 2016 at 5:26 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
Hey everyone,
So I'm going to attempt to install this alarm, I've gone through the wires and this is my take on it all. Can anyone tell me if this looks correct? Take into account that I do not have a factory alarm.
Main harness.
1-12v live
2-ground/earth
3-solid red silent wire (other silent wire to earth)
4-87a pin on the indicators/turn signal relay
5-30 pin on the indicators/turn signal relay
6-not used.
24 pin connector
1-not used
2-not used
3-tailgate switch - pulse.
4-interior light negative wire.
5-not used
6-not used
7-not used
8-not used
9-bonnet pin
10-tailgate interior light negative,
11- s this needed?[/B
12-rpm input. ]what wire would i use without standard ecu?
13-handbrake switch, ground when on.
14-not used
15-interior light negative, for door open indication?
16-not needed
17-not needed
18-not needed
19-not needed
20-brake or clutch switch, positive
21-not needed
22-not needed
23-not needed
24-not needed
Remote start heavy gauge plug.
1-nothing
2-12v live
3-not needed
4-ignition 2 ](is this 12v when ignition is on wire from key barrel?)
5-12v live
6-starter motor key side
7-starter motor, motor side (started motor wire from the key barrel cut and these wires to go to one of each ends?)
8-12v accessory output. (The wire that gets 12v but not when cranking)
9-12v live
10-12v ignition live
If I'm wrong please do correct me.
Regards,
Dean
d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 04, 2016 at 5:35 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
I will also be joining at the gem module where possible as advised and have order some of the diodes, I'm familiar with what diodes do but some more information on the exact wiring of these would be greatly appreciated
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 04, 2016 at 11:50 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
2 X 1N5404 diodes for the indicators, Y-branch out from the white as mentioned in my first post No 7.
Silent red? Try siren brown, goes to siren red and black wire on siren to ground.
24 pin connector.
3 RED / brown direct to BLACK / YELLOW at hatch release switch.
11 No.
12 Tach injectors, 4 are the same colour use any of the other 4.
15 Yes and again look up Ford 1076 here.
20 to brake output, i.e. your stop lamp bulb side.
d4enx 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 04, 2016 at 1:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote d4enx
Thanks howie, I really appreciate your help, And for editing the bolt lettering out of the post.
I'll look up that wiring right now.
And the injector wires for the tach? I'm assuming this is because it gives a constant and accurate pulse with every rotation of the engine? But aren't they all 12v live and get a pulse to ground to activate?
Regards,
Dean.
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