1990 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 & Viper 5704

1990 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 2 Door Step Side Viper 5704 535T for windows 451M for locks Main Harness (H1) 6-pin Connector H1/1 Red (+)12VDC constant input Battery constant /2 Black(-) chassis ground   ground to chassis /3 Brown Siren Output(+) (+)Red Siren /4 WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire     Not Used /5 White Parking Light Brown(+)Headlight Switch     /6 Orange GWA Output     Not Used *Siren ground to chassis {fuse polarity (+) on Viper Door Lock, 3-Pin Connector 1 Blue 2 Empty 3 Green Using 451M and Power Lock Type C Remote Start 10-Pin Connector H3/1 Pink Ignition Output   Pink Ignition Harness /2 RED / White(+) Fused 30A Ignition        ? /3 Orange(+) Accessory Output  Orange Ignition Harness /4 Violet    Yellow Ignition Harness /5 Green     Yellow Ignition Harness /6 Red       Red Ignition Harness /7 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Out   N/A /8 Pink/Black   N/A        /9 RED / Black(+) fused (30A) Accessory        N/A /10 No Connection H2 Harness, 24-pin connector H2/1 Pink/White  N/A /2 BLACK/ White ground to chasis        /3 Blue/White Second Status  N/A /4 GREEN/ Black OEM Alarm Disarm N/A /5 RED / White Trunk Release Output        N/A /6 Green (-) Door Trigger Input White at Pin or UD Light        /7 BLACK / YELLOW Dome Supervision        N/A /8 BROWN / Black Horn Honk Output ??   Black Steering Wheel Harness /9 Dark Blue (-) 200MA status out        N/A /10 Pink   N/A /11 WHITE/ Black (-)200MA Aux3 Out        N/A /12 Violet(+) Door Trigger Input        N/A        /13 WHITE/ Violet 200MA Aux 1 Output      N/A /14 Violet/Black 200MA Aux 2 Output      N/A /15 ORANGE / Black 200MA Aux 4 Output      N/A /16 Brown(+) Brake Shutdown  White Brake Pedal Switch /17 Grey Hood Pin Input   To Included Hood Pin /18 Violet / YELLOW 200MA Starter Out      N/A /19 Blue Trunk Pin/ Instant Trigger      N/A /20 Grey/Black Diesel Wait To Start      N/A /21 WHITE/ Blue RemoteStart/TurboTimer    N/A /22 Orange 200MA Accessory Input        N/A /23 Violet/White Tach Input  White at Coil /24 (-)200MA oem Alarm Arm Output        N/A ?? If using siren is this still suggested? Window Wiring Left Front Window Up      Dark Blue at window motor Left Front Window Down    Brown at window motor Right Front Window Up Blue/White Driver Kick Panel* Right Front Window Down  Tan Driver Kick Panel* * panels are off and can run right to motor if advantageous I have researched as many places as I could scratch up for an old truck. I have all the interior panels and dash removed for a stereo install, new window sliders, etc. With the help of others in this forum and some probing with MM, I have found all of the wires listed at multiple alarm sites. I was assisted on a previous install of this alarm in another vehicle and anticipate that will make programming and use easier. The temperature was 110 degrees today and would like to utilize the window features. I am replacing a rear window, and was hoping to prevent another break in. I have owned this truck for over twenty six years and it deserves my love. Any help, corrections with my flawed thinking, and recommendations are welcome. Looking for approval before I start soldering. Measure twice, cut once seems to apply to many efforts. Thanks.

With what you have listed you missed the H1/6(-) orange ground when armed that needs to be hooked to the 535T H2/4 (-)orange and IF you want windows to stay down when remote started you will need to turn off the anti-grind feature. Can also be connected to one of the AUX H2/13 or 14 channels to roll windows up. If you want the windows to roll up when the alarm goes off you will need to connect the H1/5 from alarm to the 535T H3/5 brown. If using the siren the the H2/8 horn honk is not necessary unless you want both.

Thanks for the help. My locks work, Windows work. Tach is set according to set up. Set to auto transmission. Truck has two red wires at ignition harness that act exactly the same. Do both need to be connected, is there a preference. Yellow wire at ignition switch is cut. Have I made a mistake with the two items listed. Any other thoughts? . Lights flash as if it is set to start and passing by the first key position, just not firing the starter. I tried just grounding the brake switch wire. Truck starts with key first crank. I really appreciate the assistance

Split the load between the 2 RED wires. H3/9 RED / Black needs to be hooked up as it provides the power for the starter output and Acc. When remote started. So hook it to the other Red wire on vehicle. H3/4 Violet    Yellow Ignition Harness Starter side of yellow wire. H3/5 Green     Yellow Ignition Harness Key side of yellow wire. By Brake switch you mean H/2 BLACK/ White - Ground to chassis for Auto Trans.

Thanks lurch 228. Project that I wish I had more time to complete. Alarm, sensors, window and lock modules nice addition. The remote start is killing me. H3/1 Pink Ignition Output Pink Ignition Wire      /2 RED / White (+) Fused 30A Ignition N/A      /3 Orange(+) Accessory Output Orange Accessory      /4 Violet Violet Stater Wire Starter Side      /5 Green Violet Starter Wire Key Side      /6 Red Red Starter Wire 1      /7 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2 Flex Relay Output N/A      /8 Pink/Black N/A      /9 RED / Black (+) Fused 30A Accessory Red Starter Wire 2      /10 Not Used Starter turns over. Big motor and usually takes some cranking power to start. With key starts first crank every time. Gives no rpm in diagnostics after attempted remote start. Just to check, have attempted start with hood pin open, switch turned to off position, H2/2 removed from ground, and all set off the proper diagnostic. Checked rpm at coil wire and seems to perform correctly. Have reset rpm numerous times. Used a bit writer to move off of auto, set tach and switches to auto like it should after rpm set up. The motor has never cranked enough to get rpm measurement? Set the crank time at all settings increasing length at every setting until 4 seconds. Never really seems to crank that long. Any help would be appreciated. Last piece on facelift of old truck. Would have thought an ancient basic system would be easier.

Long day. H3/4 and H3/5 are hooked to ignition wire on indicated sides of wire. Cheers.

If your getting crank and no start and increasing crank time is not cranking longer the it is seeing tack input and shutting down the 5704 starter circuit. Check heavy guage fuse in H3/6 Red Verify that when remote starting you have +12v on H3/1 Pink

Retested all the wires before posting. The only slight change from all I have read is my starter wires start at 12v and drops to approximately 10.5 volts at ignition before returning to about 14v while running. Everything I have read says steady 12 volts. Tach wire registers about 1.5 to just below 4 when I increase the throttle. Is there another way to program tach. TBI so no tach wire at each cylinder. I am persistent but am feeling defeated. Sure I have missed something simple, but when through all the connections as I was mounting the alarm and each accessory. Thanks for your efforts. Will go through the programming with the bit writer and look for any issues.

That is more than enough for the tach to operate. Just did a 1991 last fall without issue. If the pink remote start wire is outputting +12v to vehicle when remote started then not sure what the problem could be. How long of a crank do you have with the key is it longer than the remote starter crank?

Pink wire goes to 9V maximum on the three remote start attempts. DMM seems to be fairly accurate on all my other tests. I am really happy with the sensors, window and lock modules. Is there another DEI product that would easily assimilate with the items I have purchased. Or other brand. I have spent a number of hours at this one item and would not be so frustrated but every other item works great. Would really like the remote start to work when I work in the snow. I will not have completed this project with one piece inoperable. I will hate hitting the arm or disarm button each and every time. Would rather try another route before giving up. Will attempt all and everything to make this work. Thanks for all your efforts.