picking remote starter for 2006 Durango

Hello all. Looking for help and advice on putting a starter system on my wife's 2006 Dodge Durango. I'm a mechanic by trade and I've installed a few systems on older, non alarmed, vehicles but I need some guidance making sure I get everything I need. The vehicle has the factory alarm system with chipped keys and remote door unlock and hatch open on the factory fob. It also currently has a basic, one way, Viper system that hasn't worked reliably since the day we bought the vehicle(used) and now the fob has been lost. We also only have one factory key fob for the vehicle. Here is what we want: Remote start(2 way) Remote Door lock/unlock, factory alarm/disarm Remote hatch open and if possible defeat/bypass of the factory chipped key system so we can have more keys made cheaply without paying the dealer huge fees for programming. I'd like to install the system myself so something that is plug and play(T harness?)would be awesome(but not required) but definitely something that I can program myself. If you are a dealer that ships to Canada please feel free to send me suggestions and prices of kits you sell. Thanks Clay Hardock

hey clay i recommend the idatastart hc2, 2way remote starter it has 3000 ft range very high end unit and the bypass is built in so less issues and less wiring. here a link to it http://www.idatastart.com/en/products/product/HC2352AC i see your in alberta, if your in calgary you can pick it up from me, i will flash it and print all the documents you need and pics of wires to help you with the install this unit is $400 with tax Alexboguckialex

I’m not a dealer but you’ve got a couple other great options. Fortin has an Evo-All (their universal bypass/integration module) packaged with a t-harness for the CAN wires (not ignition unfortunately). I install and like Compustar so I’d recommend coupling that with a 7200 controller and a G9 remote kit. At the “going rate” online, this setup would cost you about $50 for the 7200 controller, $80 for the remotes, $70 for the bypass+Tharness, and $50 for a fortin flashlink (so you can flash your own bypasses). Roughly $250 for the whole setup. Now the fortin doesn’t do trunk/hatch release so you could hardwire that or, instead of the fortin, get a Blade AL and effectively have one controller/bypass unit (not dissimilar to the idatastart). You’d lose the t-harness but it’s only tapping 2 wires anyways in your case. Blade’s are going for around $55 at the moment, and idatalink’s flash cable is cheaper at $30. With idatalink, you have to sign up on their “dealer only” website to flash modules but once you make an account and have the flash cable, you can flash your bypass as well as change options on the controller and update it’s firmware if necessary in the future. In any case, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a few relays and a resistor kit handy when you go to install. Looks like a lot of ignition circuits (3 Acc., 2 Ign.) and the trunk release will require a resistor if hardwired. Oh, and whether or not you get the fortin bypass (which includes a single-use access code usually), their Wirecolor website only costs a couple bucks and usually has pretty good info, even some pictures to help with wire identification.