1994 Jeep Wrangler - Suggest an Alarm

Hi! I purchased an older Wrangler (1994 with a manual transmission) a few months ago. I've spent the time fixing it up and restoring it to something pretty nice. People in Jeep forums say to keep the windows open, doors unlocked, no top on, to prevent it from getting stolen or damaged. Others will say to pull the distributor, disconnect the battery, etc. Yes, those all work...but it's a PITA to do this all the time. I've installed two Fortin remote start alarms so far, which went fairly well. I ran into a few hiccups but I worked it out, learned some things, and made it work. I have all the wiring in the Jeep out at this time and think it would be a good time to figure out the alarm situation. Unfortunately though, a lot of alarms don't have diagrams going back all the way to 1994. It seems like most of them stop around 1998/1999 timeframe, which is when a lot of the keyless entry systems started coming into the picture. To start, I was wondering what people suggest as a simple alarm with a starter kill or fuel pump cutoff. I used Fortin before but not sure if there's something better. Crutchfield sells a Code Alarm CA-1155 for $150. They also sell a Viper 3121V powersports alarm for $199. I don't want to take the car anywhere for them to "activate" the alarm either, which I know a lot of Vipers will make you do. As for installation, since there's not a lot of information out there, here's what I'm thinking. With using this as a reference... https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1234.html I would connect the Jeep wire -> Code Alarm Wire Constant 12v+ - Red -> Red Battery 12v (+) Black ground -> black ground Starter Kill: Cut the yellow starter wire from the ignition key harness to the starter. Wire it up like the "Normally Open Starter Kill" picture. (12v+ to 86, ignition harness starter wire to 87, starter motor to 30, and 85 to the "armed output (-) {brown} wire on the code alarm. Place a diode across 86 & 85. -or- I found another diagram that somebody did to wire it up. They did: - Armed Output (-) {brown} wire on code alarm to a diode(?) to 85. - Cut yellow ignition harness wire. - Yellow Starter Wire on key ignition harness side to 30 & 86 - Yellow Starter wire on starter side to 87a. - Nothing on 87 I'm just really confused about the starter stuff. And also if I could install it all in the engine bay instead of under the dash, with the heat from the engine and the alarm brains being there. I think all the other wires are optional, since there's no doors and I could figure out the lights and siren. Thanks!!

You don't need something as elaborate (or expensive) as the choices you have listed. A motorcycle alarm would do the job and is small and waterproof. Here is just one example for $USD80. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-Scooter-Anti-theft-auto-Alarm-Remote-Start-Control-Security-System/283210572679?hash=item41f0aa6387:g:CBQAAOSw4ltapfxR

Thanks for the response. With that motorcycle alarm in particular, would wiring it up be the same, with cutting the yellow ignition wire and sticking it onto a relay? Which relay diagram would I follow for an old Wrangler? Thanks!

The alarm will disable the starter circuit. Unless you are planning to disable something else when the system is armed, you don't need any relays.

I believe in passive Ghost Switch systems. Something that "sets" every time you turn off the ignition, and requires an action by the driver after the next key=ON to enable the car to start and run. They can be done with relay/relay logic. The relay diagram section of this site is good reference for fertile minds to come up with a system that fits their situation. I did my first system about 8 years ago and have done about 15 since with various renditions. The secret is to not let out "what it takes" to reset the system. Security is only as strong as the number of people that know the code. There is one 4 relay diagram, for "Horn operated Ghost Switch". I used this one as the basis of many systems. Note that the horn is enabled after the engine is cranked by latching a relay on. For a manual trans, I would consider ECM cut-out WITH starter kill. Because all it takes is a little push to bump-start a manual trans, a stand-alone starter kill won't offer much protection. The ECM interrupt will. I do both (ECM and Starter) mostly so that if the system isn't properly set, it won't crank. I use the "Service Engine Soon" light as an indicator that the ECM has powered on. Use a "Ghost Switch" inside the vehicle that isn't obvious to any occupants, or to persons outside. Always incorporate some way to bypass the system in case it fails. I like a hidden switch, or use N.C. relay contacts so that if you remove or turn off B+ power to the system, the ECM and Starter are till enabled. I am aware that systems that interrupt ECM or anything that affects the running engine are frowned upon here. But with a well engineered circuit, and excellent installation techniques, a system should be as reliable as any other component in the car that can cause the engine to stop running. My personal car systems have crossed the 150,000 mile cumulative mileage mark without one unintended engine stoppage. I have enough confidence in my systems that I routinely park my cars in my drive or in front of the house and put the keys on the floor, unlocked. Only I know how to start it. Having the key is not enough. Like any security strategy, a Ghost Switch is mostly to give the owner satisfaction that they have tried something. Sorry for the TLDR.