1993 Nissan R32 Skyline, Viper 3105v Alarm Install

Hello, I am posting here today as hopefully, somebody can help me with the install of my viper alarm. Everything was going great with the install. The model is a viper 3105V and I am installing it in my 1993 Nissan r32 skyline GTST. I had the whole system installed, everything except for the wires for the door actuator. When I hit the lock and unlock the siren would beep, the taillights and headlights would flash. And when the system was armed the car wouldn't start - as it should. The lights also stayed off when they were supposed to, and went on when they were supposed to. I was happy, and about to do the last step of wiring in the relays for the door lock/unlock actuator. I wired it up as follows: white/yellow (Pin 87 + 86), red ground (pin 87A), and on the unlock relay I had the black wire (pin 85) as the alarm trigger wire - blue wire off of alarm, next to the blue wire on the relay (pin 30) went to the blue wire on the door actuator. For the lock relay, I had it the same way as for the white/yellow (Pin 87 + 86), red ground (pin 87A), the black wire (pin 85) on the lock relay went to the green wire on the alarm, and the blue wire on the lock relay (pin 30) went to the green wire off of the alarm. When I plugged in the battery again, something happened, and now my alarm receiver won't light up at all, my lock and unlock button don't do anything. Additionally, my lights stay on as somehow it's connected to constant 12v now. I'm not sure what happened, but I am hoping one of you can help me out. It is my first time installing a security device. I

First thing to do is disconnect the relay Pin 87A connection to Chassis Ground. This is putting a solid constant ground out Relay Pin 30 and to the door lock actuator wire. I can not find wiring info for your 1993 Skyline. Did it come with Factory power door locks? If the power locks are an aftermarket add on system, does it have a control unit? If add on system, are the door lock solenoids 2 wire or 5 wire?Soldering is fun!

That makes sense. Thank you for that. Do you think it’s possible I damaged the brain of the alarm at all by doing this. Maybe the reason the reciver isn’t responding and now my lights are constantly on. The car didn’t come factory with door locks, it came with one in the passenger door though, so when I lock or unlock the driver door, manually, it does the same to the passenger door, the aftermarket system does not have a control unit, and the lock solenoids are only 2 wire.

Looks like the only connection from the relays to the Viper was the Blue and Green (-) lock outputs. After you disconnect the chassis ground from pin 87A, try doing a power reset on the Viper by disconnecting all its' harnesses for 30 minutes. Test the Skyline while it's disconnected to see for the problem is with the car. Hopefully that clears the strange Parking Light issue. The +12V constant power supplied to the relays at Pin 86 and 87 should be fused. If you are connecting to only one solenoid, a 15 Amp fuse should be OK. You said there is no aftermarket controller but do you have anything connected to the two solenoids Blue and Green wires? You might have blown a fuse with the solenoid wire tied to chassis ground or damaged something else.Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the help. I’ve unplugged everything, and when everything is unplugged the car acts completely normal. So it doesn’t seem like I damaged anything on the vehicle side of things. When I plug it back in the same problem is there, parking lights stay on and nothing reacts when I hit the buttons. I haven’t wired up the door lock switches or anything again yet. But correct there is no aftermarket controller for the door locks. Only for the whole alarm system, which should control the door lock actuators too. The blue and green wire on the door lock actuator go to the relays too, correct? I have also checked all fuses, and everything seems to be okay.

Well, there's some good news and some bad news. The good news is the car is OK. The bad news is the Viper has an issue. Verify that the Parking Light jumper is still in place and on the correct (+) or (-) setting for your car. Not sure what changed but you should verify all your Viper connections. It might even be a good idea to list all the connections. Here is a harness pin listing to assist : Main (Primary) Harness, White 12-pin connector 1 ORANGE (-) 500mA GWA (Ground When Armed) OUTPUT 2 WHITE (+/-) SELECTABLE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT 3 WHITE/BLUE (-) 200mA CHANNEL 3 PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT 4 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT 5 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 6 BLUE (-) INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 1 7 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 8 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT 9 YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT, ZONE 5 10 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT 11 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT 12 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA CHANNEL 2 OUTPUT Door Lock Harness, 3-pin connector 1 LIGHT BLUE 200 mA (-) UNLOCK, 200 mA (+) LOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN 200 mA (-) LOCK, 200 mA (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT I would disconnect the White Parking Light wire and see if the Viper works without it, siren chirps, etc. Your relay wiring was probably correct beinmg as you have 2 wire solenoids that are not used or connected to anything else, only the Viper.   Below is a link to the correct relay wiring diagram for your Type D setup. Actuators / Reverse Polarity Relay Diagram (Type D) https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/multiple-wire-car-door-locks.asp#arp As a test, you could wire up the relays as per the diagram but don't connect the Vipers lock outputs. You can test the operation by briefly touching a jumper wire that goes to chassis ground to the relays alarm input pins. That will simulate the Vipers one second lock or unlock output and make the solenoid change position. If that works OK you can connect the Vipers lock outputs to the proper relay. If your 3105V Viper system has the old style (+) / (-) outputs, I would place a 1N4001 diode in that output wire with the diodes band towards to Viper. This will block the unused/unwanted (+) output. Additionally, I would put a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode across the relays coil ( Pin 85 - Pin 86 ). Please note that the diagram does not follow standard relay conventions. Pin 85 should receive the (-) signal and Pin 86 should get the (+) signal. The diagram will work, but...   The diagram shows the relay on the left with those input polarities reversed, probably to make the diagram easier. Below is the corrected diagram. Soldering is fun!

Thank you so much. Doing this made my alarm work as normal. Well, mostly normal. Ao the actuators are all wired up and the lock/unlock buttons work, and everything else works great. The only thing is that when I start my car (when the alarm is NOT armed) the doors automatically lock. And then when I turn my car off the doors unlock. Sort of annoying for sure. So my next question is: is this issue caused by programming? Or is it an issue due to my wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

That is the 3105 doing that. See programming option 1-03. Here is the description : 1-3 Ignition Controlled Door Locks ON/OFF: When set to on, the doors lock three seconds after the ignition is turned on and unlock when the ignition is turned off. If the door is open when the ignition is turned on, the system will not lock the doors. The 998T Bitwriter procedure for ignition lock and ignition unlock may be programmed On or Off independently. "Ignition Controlled Door Locks" default setting is ON. Program it to OFF and you're all set.Soldering is fun!

Ah thank you so much for everything!

Hello, I was hoping that somebody could help me program out a feature on my viper 3105v. My car (1993 Nissan skyline r32 gtst) has a turbo timer installed. While I wait for my turbo timer to shut my car off, I can lock my car (by holding the lock button on the remote) however, when the time runs out, and the car shuts off, the doors automatically unlock again, and the alarm is disarmed. Does anybody know how to keep it from the alarm disarming when the car finally shuts off? Thank you!