Which clutch bypass method to use -- 92 Integra?

The installation guide for my 1250M Ultra Start remote starter gives examples of four different bypass methods to use. It says to "Use a wiring information sheet to determine what style of Clutch Bypass is to be installed."   Here is the link to the wiring guide:https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1992&make=Acura&model=Integra&ID=10&type=AlarmType 1 - Starter Wire Bypass:Connect the Starter Wire directly to themotor side of the clutch switch.Type 2 - Negative Bypass (High Current):Connect a relay to groundthe clutch switch wire whenthe remote starter is activated.Type 3 - Connecting Bypass:Install a relay to connect the clutchswitch wires when the remote starteris activated.Type 4 - Disconnect Bypass:Install a relay to disconnect the clutchswitch wire when the remote starteris activated.I installed using Type 1. But the Remote doesn't start and the diagnostic code indicates a problem with the clutch bypass. Following the experience of other honda/acura owners and installers on this board I connected the Remote Starter's starter wire to the blue/black wire coming from the upper clutch switch.(It throws 12V when in Start, but goes to ground when the clutch pedal is depressed. The companion black wire stays ground throughout the sequence.)My question: Which rabbit trail do I chase? Continue to troubleshoot my Type 1 clutch bypass? This assumes that the four choices are only a matter of preference and not function (i.e. it doesn't matter); or, which is the CORRECT bypass type to use for my 92 Integra?

I am not sure but it really isn't too difficult to test if you have a test light.  Someone out there could probably tell you exactly what type it is on that car, but I am not familiar with what type of clutch safety switches manyfacturers use.  My Hondas didn't have them at all, at least they didn't work if they did.  I just did a Toyota that all I needed to do was attach the ground out when running wire to one of the two wires at the clutch switch.  You should be able to test the switch to determine the type with a simple test light.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Two of the fews ways you could do it.On my 97 Teg I just grabbed the starter wire after the clutch safety switch. The relay should be located under the dash on the far left. There are three wires about 12 gauge going into it. You just need to find the right one with a meter. 2 of the wires will show +12v when key is in start position, while the 3rd one will only show +12v when the key is at start and the clutch is pushed in. That is the wire you need.The other more commonly done way is as follows.You can get the starter wire in the ignition harness, but then you will need to join two wires together at the clutch. There might be two different plugs going to the clutch. Pick one and take your meter and put it on continuity and connect to the two wires going to the switch. When the clutch is pushed in completely it will have continuity, when its out there will be no continuity.Wire a relay as follows:87: to one of the clutch wire30: to the other clutch wire86: to thick white wire of TL1250M, make sure to put the jumper under the plastic cover so it acts like a second starter wire.85: to groundYou will then need to add another relay for the second ignition wire since you just used the normal 2nd ignition wire for the clutch bypass. Connect the thin orange from the TL1250 to 85, 86 to ignition, 87 to a fused +12v, and 30 to the second ignition wire of the vehicle.I've done a bunch of the AST units, so feel free to ask me any specific questions about them. Probably about 100+ this winter.

Jworm,Thanks for your input. I'm glad to know someone out there is familiar with this product and has done many installs -- gives me some confidence I didn't buy a piece of junk...Anyway, I don't think the bypass is my problem, read below after the relay stuff:The "commonly done" way you describe is very close to the Type 3 - Connecting Bypass method described by the TL1250M Installation Help Guide -- but with these differences:86: to vehicles starter wire85: to the remote starters orange wire (Ground - while running output)same:87: to key side starter wire at clutch switch30: to motor side starter wire at clutch switchIf I do the above then I don't need to add a second relay for the second ignition wire?I couldn't find the factory relay you refer to for your 97 Teg -- nothing like that in my 92.Here's my install. How does it compare with your experience?TL 1250M wire           Integra wire6pin Yellow             Blk/Blu @ upper clutch switch6pin Green              Yellow @ ignition harness 6pin Red               White @ ignition harness6pin Red               Wht/blk @ 2nd igntion harn6pin Blue               Blk/Yel @ ignition harness6pin White              unused14pin Black             chassis ground14pin Pink              Grn/Wht @ brake pedal switch14pin White             RED / Blk @ Blue conn @ fuse BX14pin GreenWhite        Hood Pin14pin Blue/white        TachThe jumper switch is on Position Three -- Second IgnitionResults after attempted start:It "tach learns", goes into Reservation Mode, engine shuts down when door closes, all good so far. But then pushing the start button on the remote I get one flash of the park lights, then the auto passive seat-belts go on along with the dash accessory light, 6 seconds of nothing, then the seat-belts go back to beginning position, then eight flashes of the park light.After that trying to start via remote I get seven flashes because of tach lock out from the previous failed start.Now catch this:I get the exact same thing if I stay in the car after putting it in Reservation Mode, push in the clutch manually and then push the remote start button --- nothing just one park light flash, 6 second delay, 8 park light flashes. Since the remote won't start with me manually engaging the clutch pedal I'm assuming the bypass wiring is not the problem. What's the next thing to check?               1992 Acura Integra LS

Correction to above.I connected the 6pin white to the Teg's 2nd ignition wire Blu/White.

Sorry I didn't reply earlier.The Yellow starter wire in the 6 pin harness has to go to the car's BLACK/ white starter wire. Your starter never sees any power during the remote start sequence, therefore it never cranks. At no point does the starter wire coming from the ignition harness go thru any of the wires at the clutch. The clutch when pushed in just triggers a relay somewhere else in the car that will complete the circuit when pushed in allowing it to start.Wire the clutch bypass as follows:86 to cars starter wire85 to remote starters thin orange wire.87 to one wire at the clutch switch30 to the other wire at the clutch switchMost cars use a Type 3 bypass (like your Integra), you shouldn't be using a Type 1. I've seen Mitsubishi's with Type 4 and jeep vehicles with Type 1

Thanks for the specifics. I followed them exactly and progress was made but not totally running yet...I connected the yellow 6pin harness to the BLACK/ white starter wire. I installed a relay using Type 3 bypass. All the other wires remained the same as earlier posts.Car still doesn't start remotely. However, progress has been made in that the car WILL remote start if I manually push in the clutch and push the transmitter's start button. Once the car starts I get five (5) parking lights flashes.So then it seems Type Three Bypass relay isn't grounding the clutch switch? Or, clutch switch relay wires not connected properly? How do I test for good connections from relay to clutch switch?

I think there are two plugs that usually go to the clutch. You might be on the wrong one. Take your multimeter and put it on continuity. Put a probe to each of the wires at the first plug. You should only have continuity when you push the clutch all the way in. If it tests that way, take a jumper wired fuse at 10 amps. Connect the two wires and try to start the car by key with the clutch out. If it starts, you found the two wires that need to be "joined" by the relay. If not, its probably the other plug.

I'll try that to verify, but from what I've read from other 1990-1993 Integra owners (www.g2ic.com) the clutch switch is the upper switch and it is served by two wires in a split loom, one is blk, the other is blk/blu. The lower switch is for the cruise control. I've verified this -- I can see the pink wire from the lower switch leading to the cruise control brain.I'm using the blk, blk/blu wires leading to the upper switch.

Worked on it some more today. I had the correct clutch wires. The jumper wire worked. But the relay doesn't. As an alternative "jumper" I also joined the two relay lead wires (just taped together their connectors) and that works. That's how I'm running now. But when the clutch wires relay lead wires are connected to the relay -- it doesn't work. So I guess Type Three isn't the right type of bypass to use? I even tried another relay switch -- same results.